I just helped a few noobs so I feel I've met my quota and can ask for yet more advice.

Just throw me your opines about spark plugs for my setup below. From my searches it seems like NGK copper are the way to go, cheap, and work well. However, I'm unclear about the entire "cold stepping" side of plugs, as in "this plug is 2 steps colder"?

My build is pretty mild I guess, and not everything is installed yet (but I have it all) but I'm running in SoCal which can get pretty hot, soooo.............sound off.


Engine: 91 Integra LS B18A, 151,000 miles

Crower 404's (Stage 3) with Crane springs/retainers
JG 62mm bored Throttle Body
Blox Intake Manifold
DC Sports 4-2-1 Header
2 1/4" custom catback
Magnaflow Sport Series muffler
CAI
MSD Cap, Blaster 3 Coil, and plug wires
Clutchmaster 7.5# flywheel
AEM lightened pulley set
AEM Adjustable Cam Gears
AEM FPR/Fuel Gauge
Apexi VAFC

I'm assuming that after a dyno appointment I'll be at around 160whp

 

vafc without vtec? And you would get alot more power with a good tune. But as far as the plugs i dont know.

 

a dyno appt will happen after all components installed - the apexi vafc has more options than the non-vtec version and works fine for cars without vtec, you just set the vtec rpm higher that your cars redline, hence, it never engages and makes no difference. the vtec vafc has more tuning ability

 

Youre running stage 3 cams with stock bottom end?

 

I've always liked bosch dual plat, and I don't use anything else.

 

always use NGK's on integras bOSCH are for german cars. so your answer is NGK!!!!!

 

true, true... use the NGK's...

 

NGK or denso

 

thanks guys, I just ran through pep boys, they said the NGK V-Power was the OE replacement for my rig, unfortunately, they only had 3 in stock

 

Yes, stage 3 on stock bottom end. I could get more with a milled head, pistons, etc., but I'll do fine with this setup. Here is my original mod discussion thread. I've added some things (exhaust, msd, aem pulleys, etc.) but most people agreed that my plan was a good one. Your welcome to comment on that thread what you think about my mods, on this thread I'm just looking for ideas on spark plugs. thanks.


https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1312777

 

u might hit those number with all that stuff, u need crower 404s defineatly, if u want to stay with those cams do headwork. Also check out nonvtec.com great site for help

 

back to spark plugs..............more research has revealed that perhaps you only go to colder plugs and/or reduce the gap, when you've increased your hp substantially, or are running boost. From what I've seen, with my assumed 30hp gains NGK stock will be fine.

 

NGK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11 1

 

you should reallly rebuild your block(pistons, connection rods, rod bolts, and balance your crank) espeicaly when you have stage 3 cams. because the ls block is not made for the high rpms that the 404's put out . and if dont do any bottom end work which you should at least get new rod bolts

 

Where the hell have you been, dude?

I use NGK BKR7ES copper plugs in mine. They are one heat range colder.

I doubt you will need anything other than stock heat range plugs for your setup, however.

 

If your compression is relatively stock, I would only run 1 step cooler plug. I personally run Denso Iridiums and love them, however, I will be switching to NGK coppers for the price difference.

 

I made a mistake about what I wrote, u were askin about spark plugs, so yea do ngk 7e11 those are good for all motor or turbo my bad again

 

Right on, I got a Das Schmoo post. I'm must say, I'm completely bitter that the Mustrich, err, Strichmu avatar has been replaced for what appears to be a mini-Mario humping a turtle. Oh wait! Post edited! I just checked HAN.net, and Strichmu is still there, peace and harmony reign.

I've been busy! That's where. Still workin' on my ride, not using AOL, not enough time to chat. I'll hit you up when I'm ready to do my cam install so I can borrow all your nice parts I suppose I should hit up HAN more, haven't been on there at all. I never find parts there so I stopped going cuz I'm always looking for something! The advice was always top notch though

 

went with 6E-11, one step colder, which, according to my manual, is for "hot climates or continous high speed driving", both conditions I meet daily

 

I'm presuming you are running an msd box. If that is the case you can probably open up the gap a little more than stock. Low compression, no juice/boost. You need as much of a burn as you can get. Detonation isn't gonna be an issue. Stock gap is like .044 and when my gsr motor was stock with cams(ITR), intake manifold(s2) and all the other bolt ons I ran zfr6f-11 plugs gapped to .053.

 

no, no MSD ignition, just cap, wires, and coil.

interesting, on all the other threads about spark plugs people were lessening the gap, not widening it..................of course, if you have more power going in (MSD Ignition for example) you could assume that it will be able to jump a larger gap (although the calculation of such voltage is beyond the faint memories of my college physics classes).

Your fuel air mixture is ignitied from the heat generated by the spark, not the spark itself (according to NGK.com) so you want to maximise heat generation without experiencing "quenching", which, according to NGK.com, is something bad, but they did a terrible job explaining it so I'm not exactly what that phenomenon is. My assumption is combustion in the cylinder somehow "quenches" the spark, or reduces it (less effective). I'm pretty tempted to start an all-inclusive spark plug thread to investigate this issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by themilman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, no MSD ignition, just cap, wires, and coil.

interesting, on all the other threads about spark plugs people were lessening the gap, not widening it..................of course, if you have more power going in (MSD Ignition for example) you could assume that it will be able to jump a larger gap (although the calculation of such voltage is beyond the faint memories of my college physics classes).

Your fuel air mixture is ignitied from the heat generated by the spark, not the spark itself (according to NGK.com) so you want to maximise heat generation without experiencing "quenching", which, according to NGK.com, is something bad, but they did a terrible job explaining it so I'm not exactly what that phenomenon is. My assumption is combustion in the cylinder somehow "quenches" the spark, or reduces it (less effective). I'm pretty tempted to start an all-inclusive spark plug thread to investigate this issue. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You want the spark plug gap to be as wide as possible without misfiring. If you can get away with a wider gap, do it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by themilman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Right on, I got a Das Schmoo post. I'm must say, I'm completely bitter that the Mustrich, err, Strichmu avatar has been replaced for what appears to be a mini-Mario humping a turtle. Oh wait! Post edited! I just checked HAN.net, and Strichmu is still there, peace and harmony reign.

I've been busy! That's where. Still workin' on my ride, not using AOL, not enough time to chat. I'll hit you up when I'm ready to do my cam install so I can borrow all your nice parts I suppose I should hit up HAN more, haven't been on there at all. I never find parts there so I stopped going cuz I'm always looking for something! The advice was always top notch though </TD></TR></TABLE>

A few people have that avatar here, so I decided to change it. I guess I wasn't the first one with that goofy *** ostrich.

 

you wont need the msd though your not gonna push enough horsepower to need a better spark

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petergriffen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you wont need the msd though your not gonna push enough horsepower to need a better spark </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't comment on his needs for more spark, but its never a bad thing, and can certainly help to avoid plug fouling if you are running rich.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petergriffen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you wont need the msd though your not gonna push enough horsepower to need a better spark </TD></TR></TABLE>Is there a horsepower number where better starting, better idling, and better fuel economy are needed and not needed? I figure a stock 150hp car can benifit from that as well but maybe I'm wrong.