Well, hatch now runs....but runs like crap. help?
Alright, the car is throwing a IACV code. So I have to replace that. But i dont beleive that has anything to do with my current problem.
Car takes a while to crank over (first vid)
I have the battery in the rear. Could that be it? Wtf...
http://vids.myspace.com/index....7&n=2
dont mind the girlfriend. haha
Second, the car runs like poo... idles semi rough, but when you snap the throttle it bogs. When you hold the throttle open it will backfire though the intake...
As far as i know the timing is correct.
My car has a b16a1 with walbro 255 fuel pump.
http://vids.myspace.com/index....9&n=2
Car takes a while to crank over (first vid)
I have the battery in the rear. Could that be it? Wtf...
http://vids.myspace.com/index....7&n=2
dont mind the girlfriend. haha
Second, the car runs like poo... idles semi rough, but when you snap the throttle it bogs. When you hold the throttle open it will backfire though the intake...
As far as i know the timing is correct.
My car has a b16a1 with walbro 255 fuel pump.
http://vids.myspace.com/index....9&n=2
have you checked the firing order?
the tps and the map sensor(or maybe the iacv) i believe have the same plug make sure you have them right and not switched, that will make the car run like that as well.
the tps and the map sensor(or maybe the iacv) i believe have the same plug make sure you have them right and not switched, that will make the car run like that as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g-ride-si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you checked the firing order?
the tps and the map sensor(or maybe the iacv) i believe have the same plug make sure you have them right and not switched, that will make the car run like that as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Tps, map would throw codes if mixed.
Firing order is correct
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ak_ef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like the timing is off. checked it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
would this cause the long crank to start?
the tps and the map sensor(or maybe the iacv) i believe have the same plug make sure you have them right and not switched, that will make the car run like that as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Tps, map would throw codes if mixed.
Firing order is correct
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ak_ef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like the timing is off. checked it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
would this cause the long crank to start?
timing being off would def cause that but i thought you said timing was on? IACV can cause problems similar to that too though, you dont need to replace it just clean it out really good with carb cleaner and put it back on. have you reset the ecu to see if any more codes have popped up?
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Pull the hazard fuse for a couple minutes... or i prefer disconnecting battery for few minutes. Unless ya cherish your clock and radio presets.
anyways, it turned out that before i fried my injectors and resister box
(the resiser box was not hooked up right)
Im sure this could mess up the drivers in the ECU.
Would a bad ecu cause this conditon?
(the resiser box was not hooked up right)
Im sure this could mess up the drivers in the ECU.
Would a bad ecu cause this conditon?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3s0n3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> u didnt wash it did u ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope
nope
What about vacuum leaks? You mentioned backfiring through the intake manifold. My car just blew its intake manifold gaskets and that caused it to backfire at idle. Run some compressed air through the IM and listen for leaks.
did you snap a t belt? sounds almost like bent valves or mabey even vtec engauging at low rpm. did you check your tps? whats the voltage read with the throttle closed? do you have a cat on it? mabey its clogged, try disconnecting the cat from the header and run it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ak_ef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey the pictur looks like your timing it off It is suppoesed to say up not pr3. So the timing is off</TD></TR></TABLE>
The PR3's have Arrows pointing up...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrtoastyjr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you snap a t belt? sounds almost like bent valves or mabey even vtec engauging at low rpm. did you check your tps? whats the voltage read with the throttle closed? do you have a cat on it? mabey its clogged, try disconnecting the cat from the header and run it</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope never snapped a belt. I am using the hasport vtec harness, but i can check that, but i doubt it.
I switched the wires at the tps, so that should be reading correct, but i will check tomorrow, just to be sure.
I have a gutted cat.
Fuel pressure is at 37-40 right where it should be also. So its not fuel.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">still sounds like injector problems, like they are not firing in the right order</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep thats what im thinking, The car ran before i had the problem with the resister box. So Im deffinatly thinking i messed something in the ecu up when i fried the injectors and reister box. I will be borrowing my friends ECU to see if it is that.
I Really hope its just a bad ecu. If not im going to have to check the wires from the injectors to the Ecu.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chadmasterc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did the car run previously? If so what have you done to it between now and then?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow, very long story. I have been working on the car for like 2 years. ( i have been busy) Well it ran fine sorta after i got it in. I must have did a poor wiring job because later on the resister box did not have continuity between the Main relay and or the ECu. so the Injectors were being run off 12v i beleive (should be 6v) So the injectors were bad, and the resister box was as well (out of Ohm spec). Since then i just rewired a whole new harness (the right way this time) and put it in and thats where i am now.
I left out alot of stuff i did, but that is all that is related to this problem
The PR3's have Arrows pointing up...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrtoastyjr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you snap a t belt? sounds almost like bent valves or mabey even vtec engauging at low rpm. did you check your tps? whats the voltage read with the throttle closed? do you have a cat on it? mabey its clogged, try disconnecting the cat from the header and run it</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope never snapped a belt. I am using the hasport vtec harness, but i can check that, but i doubt it.
I switched the wires at the tps, so that should be reading correct, but i will check tomorrow, just to be sure.
I have a gutted cat.
Fuel pressure is at 37-40 right where it should be also. So its not fuel.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">still sounds like injector problems, like they are not firing in the right order</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep thats what im thinking, The car ran before i had the problem with the resister box. So Im deffinatly thinking i messed something in the ecu up when i fried the injectors and reister box. I will be borrowing my friends ECU to see if it is that.
I Really hope its just a bad ecu. If not im going to have to check the wires from the injectors to the Ecu.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chadmasterc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did the car run previously? If so what have you done to it between now and then?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow, very long story. I have been working on the car for like 2 years. ( i have been busy) Well it ran fine sorta after i got it in. I must have did a poor wiring job because later on the resister box did not have continuity between the Main relay and or the ECu. so the Injectors were being run off 12v i beleive (should be 6v) So the injectors were bad, and the resister box was as well (out of Ohm spec). Since then i just rewired a whole new harness (the right way this time) and put it in and thats where i am now.
I left out alot of stuff i did, but that is all that is related to this problem
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchBox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The PR3's have Arrows pointing up...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
but there should be a up imprint. The problem might be that the cams are reversed and need to be put back into place. check the cams sprocket to see if i am wrong but I doubt it. Mine has pr3 and up
The PR3's have Arrows pointing up...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
but there should be a up imprint. The problem might be that the cams are reversed and need to be put back into place. check the cams sprocket to see if i am wrong but I doubt it. Mine has pr3 and up
But the Pr3 is in A arrow that is pointing up...
Can anyone confirm that the PR3's should be down.
Like with a picture?
Thanks.
I have not touched the cams, so how would they be reversed, Unless the motor came from japan with the cams reversed?
Can anyone confirm that the PR3's should be down.
Like with a picture?
Thanks.
I have not touched the cams, so how would they be reversed, Unless the motor came from japan with the cams reversed?
Ok it turns out i was wrong and the arrows are pointing down when the 2 marks are lined up.
Does this mean i have the intake and exhaust cams in backwards?
how do i tell the diff between the intake and exhaust cams. are thy marked?
Does this mean i have the intake and exhaust cams in backwards?
how do i tell the diff between the intake and exhaust cams. are thy marked?



