I have a 95 Si lude and I was wondering how to wire the crossover without an amp with component speakers in the front. Is there a stock crossover box I need to find and just swap wires because the stock system is component? Basically, do I plug the stock tweeter wires onto the new tweeter and stock woofer wires onto the new woofer and trace them back to the x-over box and just replace the box with the new one that came with the speakers? Sorry, I'm kinda confused right now, thanks for the help. Also, if there is a stock x-over box can someone tell me where it is? Oh yea, and my head unit is an Alpine 9856 which I think is 4x18 watts rms and 4x50 watts max.


Modified by Ziggymidget5 at 6:01 AM 3/24/2006

 

I had the same question when I was putting in new components. Si I didn't get an answer so I just ran new wires. ran a set up to the tweeter covers and put the crossovers there. and then ran a set of wires to the doors.

I don't believe there are stock crossovers I think it just has freq blocks on the tweeters.

 

There is not a crossover from factory (as I remember, been a couple years), the stock tweeters just have those yellow resistors (freq blockers) on the back to take out the bass. And the doors should be able to transmit the entire sound stage. I just amped my stock tweeters and threw some amped Infinity Kappas in the door, have the crossover on the amp set for the Kappas and the tweeters filter the lows out.

K

hope that helps

 

i have a diagram for the entire sound system give me a little to find it and get it on here.
there isn't a crossover but you can just put them behind the radio and you only have to run new wires to the tweeter.

 

If you do put the crossover in the door, I'm pretty sure that each speaker connector, has a wire from the radio to the speaker, and then a wire to the tweeter. So the tweeter wires run from each door to the tweeter.

If you get an amp you'll be better off, becuase you can do whats called bi-amping. This is were each speaker get powered individually. The crossover actually uses alot of power.

matt

 

the wire doen't split at the speaker.
just two wires in each harness. it splits somewhere after the radio and before the speakers

 

Alright, well thanks for some clarification and it'd be great if you could find that diagram VtecFree.

 

i got it just gotta scan it on a comp and it'll be here. might be later tonight before it's up

 

alright, whenever works, thanks.

 

Can i use the red/green and brown/black wires (colors for passenger side) that go to the tweeters as the +/- input for the x-overs? They have the full signal right? the frequency blockers are on the tweeters themselves? Do i even need to use the x-over for the woofers because there is a separate set of these wires that run to the door for the stock woofer, and i know the main point of the x-over is to protect the tweeter, so i could put the x-over behind the tweeters in the dash and plug the tweeters into the x-over and then just plug the woofers into the wires already in the door? I hope this makes sense.

 

Ziggy, don't your Infinity components come with crossovers? If so, use them! The stock Honda wiring is not designed to properly express, or even properly protect, nice aftermarket speakers.

I have Infinity Kappa components in my Prelude, and the crossovers fit nicely under the driver's seat. My amp is under the passenger seat (and barely fits). I would highly recommend putting the xovers under one of your seats, because water can get inside the door.

Only problem is, you have to run new wires into the doors.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M@ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you get an amp you'll be better off, becuase you can do whats called bi-amping. This is were each speaker get powered individually. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can only bi-amp speakers with crossovers that are prepared for it, which most aren't. Only the very highest-end Infinities are bi-ampable (they have eight terminals on the xover instead of 6). And if you're using an amp, I don't think you'd get much benefit from this, because tweeters take hardly any power. Maybe two or three watts when it's loud, AFAIK. You can bi-amp speakers by getting rid of the passive crossovers completely by getting an active crossover, but that's way more complicated.

Dan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudemanDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You can bi-amp speakers by getting rid of the passive crossovers completely by getting an active crossover, but that's way more complicated.

Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats the way I ment. The main advantage being you can change the x-over freq., but I digress. Get an amp and run the wires once. I think Dan has the master plan. x-over's under one seat amp under the other.

 

Well the problem is i don't see a way of running wire to the door without a hassle and i don't have the money for an amp, the only reason i bought new speakers is because the surround on my stock ones completely broke. So can the stock wires do fine with the 18 Watt RMS from my headunit and then i'll only use the x-over for the tweeters to protect them from blowing? I know it's not the best way, but in my situation, it would save a lot of time and money and since i'm not amping, i don't see how it'd be a problem.

 

that should be fine. many people prefer the sound of no x-over on the woofer. Thats how the OEM setup is.

 

Yeah, that works. Just keep our advice in mind for future reference, for if you ever have the money and the inspiration.

 

you might be able to fit the x-over behind the tweet, there is tons of room.

 

Yea, x-over behing the tweeter is exactly what i'm gonna do, thanks for all the help/advice.