everyone knows that honda calls for 5w-30 in pretty much all its motors. well last night, while changing my oil in my rsx, i decided to change the viscosity and go with some castrol gtx 10w-30. the honda manual says it needs 5 quarts. first question: i put the 5 quarts in the car, and its still on the low mark on the dipstick after running it and letting it sit for 10 minutes. is it supposed to be like that? next question: is it normal for the cylinder head to sound a bit louder(like constant clicking and pinging) after you change the viscosity of the oil?

anything would be appreciated. its my new car, i dont want it to **** the bed on me already, only after a few months.

 

my question for you is why? I mean really. It not like it gonna make you faster. its not safer for the engine, either, especially since its getting ready to get warm again. The tolerances in the K20 need to be appreciated...your motor shoudl have the correct weight oil put in it.

Mobil 1 Full synthetic....get it, use it, love it....it will treat your cars internals better

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NCNBPDC5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my question for you is why? I mean really. It not like it gonna make you faster. its not safer for the engine, either, especially since its getting ready to get warm again. The tolerances in the K20 need to be appreciated...your motor shoudl have the correct weight oil put in it.

Mobil 1 Full synthetic....get it, use it, love it....it will treat your cars internals better</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is not the reason why it uses 5-30w and the motor was not designed to run synthetic oil....do you even know what your talking about?

5w-30 means the weight is 5 when cold..the W stands for winter grade and the 30 is when its hot...both oils will be the same viscosity when hot

they use 5 weight when cold because its an overhead cam engine....thicker oil will reach the head slower on start up and allow the motor to wear while it doesnt have oil...

 

the w does not stand for winter. using your logic all mulitweight motor oils would be winter weight including 20w50.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the w does not stand for winter. using your logic all mulitweight motor oils would be winter weight including 20w50.</TD></TR></TABLE>


it does stand for winter grade....thanks for playing try again

"Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at various low temperatures depending on weight, and is therefore suitable for Winter use."

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/....html


Modified by D@nnY at 5:30 PM 3/22/2006

 

so pretty much i just made a mistake putting in 10w-30? are there any proper procedures to entirely flush out any leftover 10w-30 when changing the oil once again?

 

I wouldnt worry about it. Like was said above the first # (10 in this case) is the viscosity of the oil when it is cold. The lower the # the thinner the oil so therefore it distrubites throughout the engine quicker when it is cold out. The 5w30 will read the head faster than the 10w30 in cold conditions. As it is almost spring and it is getting warmer out I wouldnt worry about it.

If anything just let the car warm up a little more before driving it if it does get cold outside. You will be find and could probably use 10w30 all summer if you wanted to and then switch to 5w30 for when it gets cold out.

I know my car is different but the manual for me gives recomended operating ranges for these 2 oil wieghts. I dont remember exactly but 5w30 is acceptable for very cold to hot temps and 10w30 is acceptable for moderate temps to hot temps.

 

I run 10w30 Redline in my car all the time.
I usually track my car pretty hard, after one event I was using 5w20 and burned it up pretty fast. went from 4-1 qt of oil.
I refilled with 10w30 and have not bunred a drop since.

I also fitted an aftermarket oil cooler as well to help with this problem.

On track I need items that are not going to go after a few laps.

 

...lol

btw....i kinda like to use sarcasm in my posts....so fyi

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe you should find some logic and read up before you say anything else to show your ignorance
it does stand for winter grade....thanks for playing try again

"Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at various low temperatures depending on weight, and is therefore suitable for Winter use."

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/....html</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is what happens when you post half asleep, sorry

 

now what about the 5 quarts issue? should i just fill it up a little extra? or leave it as it is?

 

serious this time. Definatly fill that thing up...you dont need to be running aroudn when the oil is low

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReV LiMiT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now what about the 5 quarts issue? should i just fill it up a little extra? or leave it as it is?</TD></TR></TABLE>

make sure you're on level ground. if you measure it in a driveway, it's obviously going to give you an innacurate reading since the oil will be at a slant.

if it's still low, you can put more oil. the amount from the bottom to the top of the dipstick mark is 1 quart of oil. so, if it's half way, put in half a quart of oil. you can always run with no oil, it just wont last very long and when you do do your oil change, you get cool metal shavings!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NCNBPDC5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">serious this time. Definatly fill that thing up...you dont need to be running aroudn when the oil is low</TD></TR></TABLE>


there you go again......

fill the oil to the top hole ont he dipstick only... if you add more oil you can airiate the oil from the crankshaft splashing it around and put more stress on your oil pump that is try to suck up oil with bubles of air....

bottom line is it doesnt need more oil.....and thats jsut one reason not to overfill it




Modified by D@nnY at 6:31 PM 3/22/2006

 

he just said that they thing was on the low end of the dipstick...did he not?

he did...i just checked...and that means you sir...just contradicted yourself....cause you yourself said that it needed to be to the top hole.

 

yes that car takes 5 quarts of oil at a cahnge with the filter

4.8 with out the filter and 6 quarts at overhaul