As you may have guessed, i now have a Skunk2 68mm TB. On a 1997 JDM ITR.

It sux, because i cant get it to work properly So to anyone that has one on their ITR or anything else... please troubleshoot me

My problem is that i have a very high idle and occasional surges (surges arent happening as often anymore) and a sticky throttle. <-- not so important right now, but annoying.

What i have done so far:

Adjusted the TPS to the correct .5v closed and 4.5v WOT
Idle screw is wound all the way in
Gasket is cut correctly and sealing correctly.
All vacume hoses are connected and are sealing.
Butterfly appears to be fully closed.

I have done a test to see if the IACV is stuffed, by taking it off completely, leaving the sensor and water line connected still, stuck my fingers in the holes to cut off the air supply. What i am told, that once i have done this, it is n turn starving the motor (because the TB is fully closed) and should idle rough as guts (ie 300ish RPM).
Doing this, did nothing. Still idles at 1300rpm hot and cold. (done the test cold and at operating temp with thermostat WO).

The ECU isnt throwing any check codes, so im assuming the appropriate sensors are working?

One thing that in the pit of my stomach is getting to me, is that when i hold the Skunk2 TB up to light, you can see a tiny ring of light completely around it. Its very very small, nothing (but air?) would get through it. Im told that its normal, and the IACV would overcome it anyway. And also that a gap that miniscule wouldnt let it idle as high as it is warm.

Also, with the throttle cable, im not sure if anyone else had to, but to make the TB close fully i had to slot the bolt holes on the throttle cable bracket and also have the adjustment wound out as far is it can go!

Any help would be appreciated. Its starting to annoy me and the stock ITR TB is looking might fine at this point

EDIT = More tests this evening.

1) Sticking finger over the IACV Bypass hole to see what happens.. idles at 800rpm hot and cold...

2) To see wether it is because of the pinhole gap around the butterfly plate, i cut a new gasket with no TB hole.. The IACV hole was cut to allow it to idle supposedly as it should on cold startup.. closed throttle etc etc.

From what i have been told, when the TB is fully closed, it is sealed. So making this gasket in theory seals it as if the TB was fully closed. This was to avoid having to spend extra $ on a new butterfly plate that fits perfectly and seals... if as it seems, wont have worked.

So my Reuslt.. 400rpm idle if it was lucky enough to fire. So this idea was quickly binned.
Feel free to flame.. but i have tried every possible solution i can think of to rectify the problem, so desperate measures were needed.

 

One thing i did notice, is that the IACV Bypass hole on the OEM ITR TB is HUGE compared to the Skunk2.. the Skunk2 is about a 5mm hole, whereas the OEM ITR one is a very large cutout thing... Have anything to do with it? :s

 

Obviously the Skunk2 TB's arent what i expected then. So NOONE in the entire USA has sucsessfully used one? Someone must know what the problem is! I wouldnt think they would manufacture a part that doesnt work?

 

skunk2 tb's suck ***. my girl has it on her car and took me forever to get it to work half decent.

One thing I noticed that helped, was getting the tb cable to stay straight inline from the bracket to the tb rotor.

 

I have an 89 Hatch with 95 GSR and I just put on SSI Mani with S2 68 MM TB, My problem was high idle with stock mani and 65 MM edelbrock TB. Now what I did on this setup was to take off the IACV that goes on the back of mani, filled both holes with hondabond and put 12 MM bolts with nuts on the backside so that they are permanently blocked and I just plugged the IACV into the plug and zip tied it to the brake lines on the firewall and disconnected the coolant lines from it completely and rerouted them into eachother. The other intake sensor with coolant running thru it that was on the bottom of the edelbrock TB I just threw that **** away because the S2 didn't even have a hookup for it. Now I had really high idle at first like 2500 and I was nutz. I took the TB back off and come to find out that in order for it not to stick where I had adjusted the stop screw it was opening it enough for the thing to idle higher. I fixed that by backing off the stop screw enough for it to close completely and it doesn't stick with the gas pedal like it did bench testing so that was fixed. It still idled at like 2000 so I found what you found.... throttle cable was too short. to fix that I used vise grips and forced the backing nut on the cable up past its adjustment range until it was threading the throttle cable practically, this gave me enough adjustment so that it's got a slight bit of play now. I still idle between 1300 and 1500 warmed up and between 750-1000 cold. I can live with that personally. Now if your throttle cable adjustment won't give you enough free movement for you to be confident that it's not pulling the rotor at 0%, you could always take the bracket off of the throttle body and re drill the two holes up higher so the bracket let the cable rest a bit closer to the TB. I know other guys have had these probs... too bad no one else posted lol. Hope this helps bro.

 

Thanks man.
I had no problems with the Cable, i just slotted the holes to move the adjustment along a little. Had its full range 0-100% throttle etc, and i fixed the sticky throttle, but still had high idle.

And about the putty in the IACV holes, i used my fingers 1st.. it still didnt work. SO i gave up, am selling it and funding a Mugen Catback instead.

Who would have thought, Skunk2 cant make TB's. Rediculous really. Such a lare company too. Must be a logical explination for it.