How much negative camber should you have street vs track ...?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJK20R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much negative camber should you have street vs track ...? </TD></TR></TABLE>
With stock suspension, stock camber, whatever that may be for your car.
If you lower it, then it entirely depends on how low, what car. what else is done to the car, and how you intend to drive it.
My GSR is at -2.4*f / -1.6*r camber, with an Ingalls front camber kit maxed. I will be changing parts to try and get more camber, both front and rear.
My Triumph Spitfire has 0*f / -4.75*r, and thats at the limit, but within factory specifications. So different applications will want different camber settings.
Basically, you need to give alot more information before you'll get a simple answer.
With stock suspension, stock camber, whatever that may be for your car.
If you lower it, then it entirely depends on how low, what car. what else is done to the car, and how you intend to drive it.
My GSR is at -2.4*f / -1.6*r camber, with an Ingalls front camber kit maxed. I will be changing parts to try and get more camber, both front and rear.
My Triumph Spitfire has 0*f / -4.75*r, and thats at the limit, but within factory specifications. So different applications will want different camber settings.
Basically, you need to give alot more information before you'll get a simple answer.
Personally, I think that on the street it doesn't really matter.
Camber on the race track is usually something racers use to help tune tire wear. If the car is burning up too much of the outer portion of the tire, then they usually add negative camber to help reduce it. That is still a compromise though since increasing negative camber can also reduce straight line traction (accel & braking)...
Camber on the race track is usually something racers use to help tune tire wear. If the car is burning up too much of the outer portion of the tire, then they usually add negative camber to help reduce it. That is still a compromise though since increasing negative camber can also reduce straight line traction (accel & braking)...
not sure how much but i prefer -1 to -2 deg neg on the fronts and 0 to -.5 on the rears that helps your fronts to turn quicker and the rears to slide out better in a corner..also adj. toe how u want it
On the street it does matter quite a bit. If you're using some good tires on the street, you wont see much inner tire wear. But normal, cheap, or touring tires will see excessive wear on the inner edges, despite what HT may tell you.
If you have too much negative camber you also suffer a lack of traction for accelerating and braking, particularly in the wet or on loose surfaces.
SO... for the street, the high side of spec is the optimal setting. On an EG this is -1.3 degrees on the front. On the track, the only way to get an optimal setting is by checking tire temps with a pyrometer. Every day, every track, every setup is different.
If you have too much negative camber you also suffer a lack of traction for accelerating and braking, particularly in the wet or on loose surfaces.
SO... for the street, the high side of spec is the optimal setting. On an EG this is -1.3 degrees on the front. On the track, the only way to get an optimal setting is by checking tire temps with a pyrometer. Every day, every track, every setup is different.
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SpecR_EK
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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Feb 26, 2002 01:15 PM







