hello guys i came across this on anther forum
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/s...12532

By request,
Bang for your buck – DC5R
As with DC2, The DC5 is pretty fussy when it comes to mods that actually work…
On the race track… The following parts are must haves…
Oil cooler / low temp thermo fan switch…
If you can’t afford a good aftermarket radiator, at least fit a low temp thermostat.
Both are better…. Suspension & brakes also need to be addressed.
These aught to be addressed before you chase any extra HP.
As for getting more power, Honda’s are pretty fussy…
The actual parts combination is everything…
It must be put together exactly right… I can’t stress enough how important this is.
Once it’s put together right, it can be tuned… This also should be spot on…
The three work together, if 1 side has a weakness, power suffers…
Examples: Your pipe dream combination isn’t right… Power suffers…
Your mechanic doesn’t really know what he’s doing… Power suffers…
Even with perfect combination & assembly, with crap tuning… Power suffers...
NB: When fitting a heavy duty clutch to a DC5R, the front and rear engine mounts should be attended to.
That is fill them with sikaflex or use Mugen inserts / mounts.
This will avoid the inevitable knocking on the floor under the driver of the exhaust system.

Minimum budget – Just a bit quicker…
#1 – Intake - Never use a SRI of any brand – CAI only (Eg: INJEN / AEM / GruppeM)
#2 – TODA Header + TODA AU cat mod + TODA cat-back system
Power output: 116 ~118kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics- shootout)


Low budget – Sleeper (Quiet & quick)
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Modified stock airbox (Aka Hondata)
#5 – TODA Header + TODA AU cat mod + JDM DC5R or TODA Racing cat back
#6 – Hondata K100
Power output: 120 ~122kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics- shootout)

Low budget – never going to get an ECU
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Intake - CAI's deliver superior results.(Eg: INJEN / AEM / GruppeM)
#5 – Header + S2000 cat + TODA Racing cat-back system
#6 – Spec A2 camshafts / valve springs / head gasket 0.3mm
Power output: 126 ~128kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics- shootout)
NB: Add K100 ECU for 144~146kw
For even more power, Spec A3 or Spec C camshafts can be swapped in.

Low / Med budget – Never going to crack the engine open.
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Intake - CAI's deliver superior results.(Eg: INJEN / AEM / GruppeM)
#5 – TODA Header + TODA AU cat mod + TODA Racing cat-back system
#6 – ECU + Dyno tuning
Power output: 128 ~132kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics- shootout)

Medium budget – Hate noise & Stop @ ECU
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Intake – Modified stock / GruppeM or Pipe style CAI (NB: CAI loud @ WOT)
#5 – Stock exhaust system / or TODA Racing cat back exhaust system
#6 – Spec A3 camshafts / valve springs/ 0.3mm head gasket / ECU / dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts.
Power output: 138 ~142kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)
8600rpm rev limit
Add TODA Header & Exhaust for more power - 152~158kw

Medium budget – Stop @ ECU
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Intake – CAI's deliver superior results.
#5 – TODA Header + TODA AU cat mod + TODA Racing cat-back system
#6 – Spec C camshafts / valve springs/ 0.3mm head gasket (Compression up from 11.0:1 to 11.4:1 / Titanium retainers / ported head / JDM intake manifold / ECU / dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts.
Power output: 154 ~160kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)
8800rpm rev limit

High budget – best power delivery
#1 – Lightweight flywheel ( Or Hi-Power single clutch kit)
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – JDM Intake manifold + CAI only
#5 – TODA Header + TODA AU cat mod + TODA Racing cat-back system
#6 – Ported head / Spec C camshafts (or larger)/ valve springs/ Titanium retainers / adjustable cam gear - exhaust only / fuel pump / Forged pistons / Forged rods (For over 9000rpm) / injectors & fuel pressure regulator / ECU / dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts.
Nb: Additional head work that can/may need to be done includes shaving of rocker arms for cam clearance, re-shaping of valves, combustion chamber re-profiling.
Power output: 160+kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)
NB: Spec C camshafts, VTC function is retained.

Products soon to be released...
- TODA Racing K20A 2.2L stroker kit (Available now)
- TODA Racing K20A quad throttle sports injection
- TODA Racing K20A Spec A3,Spec D,Spec E & Spec F camshafts (Available now)
- TODA Racing DC5R cat-back exhaust systems (Available now)

Race engine (Drag / Improved production car or better)
#1 – Light weight flywheel ( Better option is Hi-Power single clutch kit)
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive / transmission cross gear kit
#4 – Quad throttle sports injection + fabricated CAI duct / flue
#5 – TODA Header + TODA Racing header-back system
#6 – Ported head / Spec C or larger camshafts / valve springs/ Titanium retainers / adjustable cam gear - exhaust only / fuel pump / Forged pistons / Forged rods (For over 9000rpm) / injectors & fuel pressure regulator / ECU / dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts / baffled sump.
Power output: 165+kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)

Race engine – GTP production car (stock)
#1 – JDM flywheel & Exedy HD clutch
#2 – JDM exhaust manifold
#3 – JDM intake manifold
#4 – SPL (open) exhaust system or TODA
#5 – Std intake / stock air box – no modification permitted.
#6 – ECU / extensive dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts / baffled sump.
Power output: 120~122kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)

DC5 Base model – low budget
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – DC5R Gearbox & Lower final drive
#4 – Intake – CAI's deliver superior results.
#5 – TODA Header + TODA AU cat mod + TODA Racing cat-back system
NB: DC5R cat back can be used on base model with small mod to rear or base model cat.
Further modifying the airbox – Hondata style also adds a little power…
For those who aren't sure, automatic models do not have flywheels or clutches

Regarding modifying your car.
If you can’t afford to do it the right way, avoid the temptation to do something right now & save up until you can afford to get the right parts.
Obviously I recommend using only TODA products where they exist for the application.
Products from other manufacturers can be substituted with varying levels of effectiveness.

Ok… as before… Comment away...
Cheers

Adrian
TODA Racing Australia

 

this very interesting, i read the accompanied link as well. good information that i will put into use

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ah789454 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Low / Med budget – Never going to crack the engine open.
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Intake - CAI's deliver superior results.(Eg: INJEN / AEM / GruppeM)
#5 – TODA Header + TODA AU cat mod + TODA Racing cat-back system
#6 – ECU + Dyno tuning
Power output: 128 ~132kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics- shootout)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like mee XD

 

there are some other high quality components out there
IPS manifold ($750+)
here is a dyno of the mani vs. 54mm ITBs


to see more of IPS (ron's) work do a search archive topics created by "[B]edo"


IPS K2 or Kme cams for a built motor (K2s out performed toda n2s...don't know about new toda a3 cams)
IPS/Eibach valve springs & retainers
DTR/SSR or Hytech will own the production toda header

pics of my ajustable length hytech (2-step primary) header




I also wanted to mention using the RBC (euro accord type r) Mani which is the same as the RRB mani ('06 si)...this IM holds torque after peak much better than PRC (ITR/CTR) mani - also provides slightly higher peak #'s

I have already purchased a RBC IM & mod'd it to fit my jdm k20a R swap (same needs to be done with k20a2) & bought an adapter plate to fit the stock type r TB

as for the intake I am using a custom CAI set up w/prototyperacing velocity stack (and HUGE K&N filter)


I will have install pics & dyno shortly...this is for a 2000 hatchback

 

is that the dc5 RH or is that the one for swaps?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsxsav69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is that the dc5 RH or is that the one for swaps?</TD></TR></TABLE>

k20a ek swap...john (hytech) & SSR (sicsigmaracing formerly DTR) make dc5 headers as well

 

as well as R crew which i was told will be making a dc5/ep3 header soon

 

118kw = 156 hp
isnt it too low for k20a with bolt ons? or is he talking about k20a3 but seems like hes talking about dc5r..
can someone clearify this for me lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">118kw = 156 hp
isnt it too low for k20a with bolt ons? or is he talking about k20a3 but seems like hes talking about dc5r..
can someone clearify this for me lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hope it's the A3 -- that's the power I've gotten out of my EP...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">118kw = 156 hp
isnt it too low for k20a with bolt ons? or is he talking about k20a3 but seems like hes talking about dc5r..
can someone clearify this for me lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

we have found out that the US dynos read 15% higher than the australian ones
so add 15% too 156HP= 179.4HP

 

That whole "article" seems like a rep for TODA products.

Not trying to knock TODA around or anything, but there are definately better parts available that will make more power, for less money (read: IPS, Hayward...)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That whole "article" seems like a rep for TODA products.

Not trying to knock TODA around or anything, but there are definately better parts available that will make more power, for less money (read: IPS, Hayward...)</TD></TR></TABLE>
its cos it was written by toda australia

 

Dont waste your money on Toda, there is better stuff available for equal or less money and since when do budget mods include toda header and exhaust.