I was wondering if anyone has or does use them and if so what would be ur input on them? Or anyone else who would know some good info on them like fitment and stuff like that? I was told for the H22's that they dont always fit right or something like and that i should look into it more, so i thought y not honda-tech for the answer to this question. Also is there any kind of mods i would have to do to my car for having this oil pan? I have H23 prelude auto (i know boo to autos). Anyways i need a new oil pan cuz some one dropped my motor and put a dent in my current oil pan. So i figured if ima get a new one y not an after market one right?

 

haha. Thats not the way to think. Those oil pans are expensive as **** - and you definately don't need it. Find a junkyard and get one thats used or something. OEM. Trust me, your wallet will definately thank me in the future.

 

Moroso is a great product. I believe some of them have increased holding capacity. Oem or Moroso is fine.

 

moroso is a waste of money. oem from a junkyard. from any h motor, maybe even the f22 from the accord(check that out first). unless its a drag-only car, oem would be better/cheaper. moroso is meant for drag, so u will have less oil where u need it when u blast throu turns as opposed to oem. my .02

 

And we all know how tough it is to blast thru those turns in a drag race

I know what you meant though the pan is baffled to keep your engine from being starved in road race conditions where a quick turn can send all the oil to one side of the pan.

Unless you're building a track car, go with OEM.

 

dont the Moroso's fit "tighter" to the engine......better clearence? like a lowered car?????

 

I just bought the moroso pan and oil pickup for my 99 ge sleeved block. My reasoning, because the oem pan was pretty ugly, just how I am. I took some pics hopefully they'll work for you. The construction, welds, design, is far above and beyond any h22 pan without a doubt. So whoever was doggin it probably is doggin it because they're a broke biatch! Increased capacity, your crank isn't spinning in excess oil, baffled pan, better and bigger pickup, studs instead of bolts shall I go on. Oh yeah it's ready for turbo lines, have fun screwing with welding bungs in and running your lines on a stock pan!







Not to mention a kicked out design and a few more inches of ground clearance!

 

I did plan on going in the next yr or 2. So the turbo readyn ess would be nice, but if i stuck with the stock one would it be possible to just hammer out the dent?

 

I'd be getting a new pan period, oem or moroso. Nothing like starving your motor of oil!

 

dented pan should be replaced. and damn that moroso is pretty.

 

Keep in mind that the Moroso pan comes with a turbocharger oil feed adapter, which is a nice convenience.

 

The design is fine for drag racing, but it's not going to suffice for road racing. The welds are good, however on the one I received, it had a warped mounting flanged. It was warped by about 1mm in the middle, which is unacceptable, IMO. I sent it back. Also for a 5Gen, you'll have to use a 4Gen oil pan gasket, and you'll have to either install a 4Gen flywheel cover and brace or modify the stock engine stiffener. I like the design of the stock engine stiffener, so between that and the warped flange, I decided to send it back. Also, the oil pickup required some slight modification (bending) to get it to fit right. The tubing actually stuck out of the pickup flange just a tad, so I had to get the flange milled to cut the tubing flush. Finally, there was a pin hole in the weld on the pickup tube that I had re-weld. So if anyone wants a Moroso oil pan pick up, let me know. I'll sell it cheap since I couldn't send it back after the modifications.

That being said, it's easy to weld a bung onto the stock oil pan. Anyone that can weld aluminum can do it. You could probably get away without welding if you use an NPT fitting on a thick part of the stock cast aluminum pan as well. That's what I did with the sending unit on my oil temp gauge. I used a 3/8 NPT to 1/8 NPT bushing since the sending unit used a 1/8 NPT fitting. I drilled and tapped the pan and installed the bushing with Hondabond to about 45 lb*ft. I drilled and tapped the pan on a flat spot next to the drail bolt hole.

Here's my take on it:
Construction: mine sucked, hopefully it's the exception and not the norm.
Welds: good on the pan, horrible on the pickup
Design: good for drag racing, probably not so good for road racing (which is what I was going to use it for with some additional baffling).
Increased capacity: Yes, 0.5 quarts, but my oil cooler adds over 1 quart to the system.
What's the big deal with studs vs bolts on an oil pan? Not like it's a head.
As for windage, there's no windage tray, so I don't think the Moroso pan is going to affect windage at all (there's already a windage tray bolted to the girdle anyway).

How did you get more ground clearance with the Moroso pan?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shdriver99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just bought the moroso pan and oil pickup for my 99 ge sleeved block. My reasoning, because the oem pan was pretty ugly, just how I am. I took some pics hopefully they'll work for you. The construction, welds, design, is far above and beyond any h22 pan without a doubt. So whoever was doggin it probably is doggin it because they're a broke biatch! Increased capacity, your crank isn't spinning in excess oil, baffled pan, better and bigger pickup, studs instead of bolts shall I go on. Oh yeah it's ready for turbo lines, have fun screwing with welding bungs in and running your lines on a stock pan!

Not to mention a kicked out design and a few more inches of ground clearance! </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Mine isn't even installed yet so I appreciate your feedback. The advantages were based on what I've read but I've never read anything about them not working with any h22! Flywheel cover, why would that be different from h22a4's or h22a1's? What did you have to modify? Also why wouldn't you just use hondabond for the gasket making the 1mm warpage you measured on your pan negligent. I've never used a gasket on my block and oil pan. I had to beat the oem off and all it had was hondabond like it's supposed to on 5th gens? My engine is just now going back together, I'm taking it super slow this time. Last engine build GE installed my pistons wrong and bent all my valves . This time they put Arias 9.2 to 1 87.5mm bore in for turbo and upgraded my rods. I just don't understand why the 5thgen flywheel/tranny cover won't fit!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shdriver99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Oh yeah it's ready for turbo lines, have fun screwing with welding bungs in and running your lines on a stock pan!


</TD></TR></TABLE>

The bung on the left side of the picture cannot be used for a return line, it's too low on the oil pan. You may run into clearance issues using the one on the right hand side of the picture. The majority of the bungs that I have welded are located just left of the oil pan's center.

 

Take a look at a 4Gen flywheel cover and a 5Gen engine stiffener (it's not just a flywheel cover like the 4Gen), and it'll be obvious. The 4Gen cover is a piece of stamped sheet metal. The 5Gen piece is cast aluminum, and not only bolts to the transmission and block, but it bolts to the stock oil pan. The Moroso pan does not have the provisions for the engine stiffener bolts, which doesn't really matter since it's a different shape anyway, so the engine stiffener has to be modified to fit with the Moroso pan.

Aluminum doesn't bend as readily as steel without cracking, and a 1mm gap is fairly significant, so I didn't feel like taking chances with any stress cracks developing in the pan.

Also, before you just use Hondabond to seal the pan to the block, clay the pick up clearance to ensure it's adequate. AFAIK, it was designed to be used on the 4Gen, which means it was meant to be used with the gasket, which is fairly thick. I never clayed mine after I ran into problems with the pan.

Also, have you test fit the pan? The fit is much more sloppy than the stock pan. It probably makes no difference at all, but I'm **** enough that the extra slop bothered me. Especially on a $400 oil pan.

 

I would hope that no one would use the plug on the left for the return line since it's the drain plug!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The bung on the left side of the picture cannot be used for a return line, it's too low on the oil pan. You may run into clearance issues using the one on the right hand side of the picture. The majority of the bungs that I have welded are located just left of the oil pan's center.</TD></TR></TABLE>