Friend's project near completion. We need some input
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From: where knowledge is horsepower
I realize that there are half a bajillion oil threads, but everyone one of them is different. His oil drain is not satisfactory (which was discovered upon installation), We made the tightest bend possible without kinking the return line, but because of the way the quick tap works and the angle on the face of the pan it is pointed downwards. After idling for around a minute the oil return started leaking from the turbo side (about 1oz) so we think it might be backing up. My friend wants to know the best way to fix this, he wants to get it home tomorrow (20 mile drive). A possible easy fix might be to pull the pan, put a large bolt that fits the drain hole in, the bend and dimple the steel around the seat so that it is at least level, then reclock the turbo for this, which would 1. Remove all kinkiness 2. Remove all uphill struggles

We are also concerned with the EL manifold, its seems like it heats up really fast. He has heat wrap but doesn't want to use it unless it won't harm the manifold (its 1/8th" stainless tubular) and also wants to heat wrap the oil feed near the turbo. Any input based on hands one experience will be greatly appreciated.
on a side note: It sounds freakin sweet!!!! (K-teller 3ing, Magnaflow 3" Muffler, Catco 3" cat)

We are also concerned with the EL manifold, its seems like it heats up really fast. He has heat wrap but doesn't want to use it unless it won't harm the manifold (its 1/8th" stainless tubular) and also wants to heat wrap the oil feed near the turbo. Any input based on hands one experience will be greatly appreciated.
on a side note: It sounds freakin sweet!!!! (K-teller 3ing, Magnaflow 3" Muffler, Catco 3" cat)
you shoulda put the drain more toward the oil pump, the did a 90 right off the bottom of the turbo.. and you could still go straight into the pan, with NO KINKS
maybe ill post a pic of mine later on.
maybe ill post a pic of mine later on.
Get a 45* silicon coupler to come off the comprssor outlet. Looks like that would miss the oil return.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a 45* silicon coupler to come off the comprssor outlet. Looks like that would miss the oil return.</TD></TR></TABLE> It clears fine, the picture tells lies
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedEG6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">redo your oil drain with two 45* fittings instead of the straits....... wont have a problem then..</TD></TR></TABLE> Sounds like a plan, where can we get them by monday?
Modified by ProjectDarkBlack at 1:39 PM 3/17/2006
Modified by ProjectDarkBlack at 1:39 PM 3/17/2006
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From: where knowledge is horsepower
http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=BCS so two of these bitchus?
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that tap should actually work just fine...it's not the best but it is better than what a lot of people here run.
you say it's leaking from the turbo side. make sure everything is tight and not crossthreaded on the return fitting. Sitting at idle will not cause the oil to back up enough to cause smoke.
you say it's leaking from the turbo side. make sure everything is tight and not crossthreaded on the return fitting. Sitting at idle will not cause the oil to back up enough to cause smoke.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dturbocivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, dont put them on there. the oil line will be really short and a bitch to get on and off.</TD></TR></TABLE> ? care to elaborate?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectDarkBlack »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ? care to elaborate?</TD></TR></TABLE>
when you loosen, the threads pull apart...
is its really short it won't be able to loosen, and the only way would be to either loosen the manifold to push it out more
when you loosen, the threads pull apart...
is its really short it won't be able to loosen, and the only way would be to either loosen the manifold to push it out more
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97turboteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where can i get a oil return line?</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectDarkBlack »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">look at the angle compared to the downpipe, the downpipe is perfectly level, that and I think the inside hose might be kinked
</TD></TR></TABLE>
man i had an oil return line that was clearly kinked before, but did not have any oil issues.
just make sure you have a restrictor, which helps flood the oil return line less
</TD></TR></TABLE>man i had an oil return line that was clearly kinked before, but did not have any oil issues.
just make sure you have a restrictor, which helps flood the oil return line less
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Ya I have the restrictor in the 4 AN line. Is the swivell fitting like a mandarel bent piece of 1/2" with pipe fittings or just the 45 degree double threaded fitting?
the 45 degree fittings should work fine. u should see my oil return, you would CRINGE. it involves an autozone coolant fitting, a honda heater hose, some electrical tape, and some hose clamps. works good though!!
How does the actual connection look at the inside of the pressure fitting. If its all marred it will not seat right and will leak. The angle on the line looks good and doesnt look as though the line is kinked at all unless the picture is obscured in some way.
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It actually has been driven home now, my friend left the fittings hand tight ha ha, all is well. It has been driven a total of almost an hour
my motto is it doesn't matter how ghetto it is, if it works, then it works.
my motto is it doesn't matter how ghetto it is, if it works, then it works.



