Is it possible for: 88 civic dx hatch w/ d15a2 to have 175whp... 0-60 time of 6.0sec
i've got this 88 civic dx hatch with a d15a2 and my goals are;
0 - 60 time of 6 secs
w/ 175whp
would like for top end speed to be at 145mph
not going to use bottles or turbo or SC
as i say "bottles are for babies"
if you have any advice please feel free i can use all the help i can get.
right now i've taken all of the top end of the motor off and am going to paint the car so i have to take the rest out. it has a blown piston ring so we are replacing the pistons with forged pistons also new cams crank new air intake system as well as manifold new bearings new injection system new ecu (which i'm building via a kit)
new head ( also was wondering could i put a vtec head on that motor) then for the headders also replacing suspension... but not giong to drop it just make them rock solid. replacing rear end with integra rear end for disc brakes. the rest is just cosmetic like complete body kit (front clip, sides, rear etc...) new seats and a very small system no subs just speakers and a head unit. if you have any more suggestions or advice that would be much appriciated
0 - 60 time of 6 secs
w/ 175whp
would like for top end speed to be at 145mph
not going to use bottles or turbo or SC
as i say "bottles are for babies"
if you have any advice please feel free i can use all the help i can get.
right now i've taken all of the top end of the motor off and am going to paint the car so i have to take the rest out. it has a blown piston ring so we are replacing the pistons with forged pistons also new cams crank new air intake system as well as manifold new bearings new injection system new ecu (which i'm building via a kit)
new head ( also was wondering could i put a vtec head on that motor) then for the headders also replacing suspension... but not giong to drop it just make them rock solid. replacing rear end with integra rear end for disc brakes. the rest is just cosmetic like complete body kit (front clip, sides, rear etc...) new seats and a very small system no subs just speakers and a head unit. if you have any more suggestions or advice that would be much appriciated
its gona be tuff to squeeze 175whp out of a d15a2 but it could be doneyes a sohc vtec head will fit
my other suggestions leave the body kit off of it and just drop it, its also gona be kinda hard to get a good suspension setup without dropping it a little bit at least
or i could just tell you what everyone else is gona tell you.. go b-series or d-series turbo, a n/a d-series its a dead end
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si0385. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
its gona be tuff to squeeze 175whp out of a d15a2 but it could be done
yes a sohc vtec head will fit
my other suggestions leave the body kit off of it and just drop it, its also gona be kinda hard to get a good suspension setup without dropping it a little bit at least
or i could just tell you what everyone else is gona tell you.. go b-series or d-series turbo, a n/a d-series its a dead end</TD></TR></TABLE>
same thing that my friend rebelramracer360 said to me although i really don't want to do an engine swap frankly dont' have all that much money and i just don't want to... neither do i want to turbo it because i have to drive it to college and turbos although i like them are alot of work... been a mechanic for about a year now and i know what turbo does to an engine even if it is built right... oh and i do want it to look pretty... yes i'll prolly have to drop it an inch to get the best suspension setup but i'm giong to do as little as possible because when you drop a car the cambers get pushed positive and driving to virgina for college from GA is a nice long hall and i don't want to be replacing tires all that much... i'm more so going for a moderatly fast very well setup car... like correct air daming and proper geometric suspension if i don't reach the 175whp i won't be sad but i do really want a 0 to 60 6sec time though
its gona be tuff to squeeze 175whp out of a d15a2 but it could be doneyes a sohc vtec head will fit
my other suggestions leave the body kit off of it and just drop it, its also gona be kinda hard to get a good suspension setup without dropping it a little bit at least
or i could just tell you what everyone else is gona tell you.. go b-series or d-series turbo, a n/a d-series its a dead end</TD></TR></TABLE>
same thing that my friend rebelramracer360 said to me although i really don't want to do an engine swap frankly dont' have all that much money and i just don't want to... neither do i want to turbo it because i have to drive it to college and turbos although i like them are alot of work... been a mechanic for about a year now and i know what turbo does to an engine even if it is built right... oh and i do want it to look pretty... yes i'll prolly have to drop it an inch to get the best suspension setup but i'm giong to do as little as possible because when you drop a car the cambers get pushed positive and driving to virgina for college from GA is a nice long hall and i don't want to be replacing tires all that much... i'm more so going for a moderatly fast very well setup car... like correct air daming and proper geometric suspension if i don't reach the 175whp i won't be sad but i do really want a 0 to 60 6sec time though
with the camber kit your talking about that problem can be fixed easily and relativley inexpencive with a camber kit...
anyways a 175whp n/a motor is gona be just as unstable as a 175whp turbo car... remember this is a common misconception, its not the boost that hurts the motor its the added strain on the motor putting out that much h/p whether it be turbo, suppercharged, n/a... as long as it is tuned correctly by someone who is experienced it will be just as reliable as a bone stock car
anyways a 175whp n/a motor is gona be just as unstable as a 175whp turbo car... remember this is a common misconception, its not the boost that hurts the motor its the added strain on the motor putting out that much h/p whether it be turbo, suppercharged, n/a... as long as it is tuned correctly by someone who is experienced it will be just as reliable as a bone stock car
oh yea and by the time you get to putting 175whp down on a d-series you could have already done a turbo setup or a b-series setup... the only better thing about a turbo d-series imo, is that if you mess up and blow the engine you can get a replacement motor very cheap, the same can not be said for a b-series motor
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yeah i herd that one... i still think i'm going to go NA d sereies just to see if i can do it or not. i'm going to go out a work on it some more now gotta take rest of the motor and wires out so it can be painted this weekend.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si0385. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with the camber kit your talking about that problem can be fixed easily and relativley inexpencive with a camber kit...</TD></TR></TABLE>
only prob is the kits don't make them any more positive... to do that you have to have them pressed and then stress tested to do it the right way...
only prob is the kits don't make them any more positive... to do that you have to have them pressed and then stress tested to do it the right way...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drmic2011 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only prob is the kits don't make them any more positive... to do that you have to have them pressed and then stress tested to do it the right way... </TD></TR></TABLE>??
all the kits ive seen go from 1.5-3 degrees positive... alot of people on here have there cars slamed and still have there camber ajdusted correctly...
good luck with your project keep us updated and post up pics
all the kits ive seen go from 1.5-3 degrees positive... alot of people on here have there cars slamed and still have there camber ajdusted correctly...
good luck with your project keep us updated and post up pics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drmic2011 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've got this 88 civic dx hatch with a d15a2 and my goals are;
0 - 60 time of 6 secs
w/ 175whp
would like for top end speed to be at 145mph
not going to use bottles or turbo or SC
as i say "bottles are for babies"</TD></TR></TABLE>
Possible? Yes
Easy? No
Practical? Most definitely NOT!
0 - 60 time of 6 secs
w/ 175whp
would like for top end speed to be at 145mph
not going to use bottles or turbo or SC
as i say "bottles are for babies"</TD></TR></TABLE>
Possible? Yes
Easy? No
Practical? Most definitely NOT!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drmic2011 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
only prob is the kits don't make them any more positive... to do that you have to have them pressed and then stress tested to do it the right way...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you lower a car, the camber inherently goes more negative. The camber kit will allow you to adjust the camber to within the factory spec. In fact, the LAST thing you want on a car is positive camber! The factory spec should be something like 0 to -1 degree camber.
Too much negative camber and you'll get excessive inner edge wear on your front tires. Postive camber will actually be detremental to the car's handling.
only prob is the kits don't make them any more positive... to do that you have to have them pressed and then stress tested to do it the right way...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you lower a car, the camber inherently goes more negative. The camber kit will allow you to adjust the camber to within the factory spec. In fact, the LAST thing you want on a car is positive camber! The factory spec should be something like 0 to -1 degree camber.
Too much negative camber and you'll get excessive inner edge wear on your front tires. Postive camber will actually be detremental to the car's handling.
It can be done but its going to take money. If i was you, i would get a y8 head, oversized valves, 10k valve springs, titanium retainers, port and polish, bowl work, ect to the head and then sleeve the block, high compression pistons, rods, flywheel, clutch, lsd. and so on and most important a damn good tune. Also if you go ***** to the wall you might not be able to pass emisions and fuel might become a problem if your wanting it for a daily driver.
i would swap in an a6 or z6 motor and boost it.
that motor wont see near that on low budget n/a
that motor wont see near that on low budget n/a
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WolfGod »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">couldnt have said it better.. tune it right and you'll be fine</TD></TR></TABLE>
bottles are for babies...
but body kits are for ******s.
my nitrous kit put out more than your motor will to the wheels.
but body kits are for ******s.
my nitrous kit put out more than your motor will to the wheels.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drmic2011 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">same thing that my friend rebelramracer360 said to me although i really don't want to do an engine swap frankly dont' have all that much money </TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't have the money for a engine swap? But you are going to try and reach 175whp on a n/a d15? IMO it's not worth all the money you'll put into it, a boosted d15 would put down more power than that for a FRACTION of the price or just go b series.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bottles are for babies...
but body kits are for ******s.
my nitrous kit put out more than your motor will to the wheels. </TD></TR></TABLE>
He speaks the truth.
You don't have the money for a engine swap? But you are going to try and reach 175whp on a n/a d15? IMO it's not worth all the money you'll put into it, a boosted d15 would put down more power than that for a FRACTION of the price or just go b series.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bottles are for babies...
but body kits are for ******s.
my nitrous kit put out more than your motor will to the wheels. </TD></TR></TABLE>
He speaks the truth.
Exospeed offers it, Anybody rockin this buildup or know someone who has it?
http://exospeed.com/products.php?prod_id=594
http://exospeed.com/products.php?prod_id=594
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bottles are for babies...
but body kits are for ******s.
my nitrous kit put out more than your motor will to the wheels. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89-civic-DX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He speaks the truth.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, indeed he does, im on a bone stock D16Z6 at 12psi with a good tune, daily driven 50 miles to and 50 miles back from work, and i can just about garuntee im above your HP goal and while still being very reliable
but body kits are for ******s.
my nitrous kit put out more than your motor will to the wheels. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89-civic-DX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He speaks the truth.
</TD></TR></TABLE>haha, indeed he does, im on a bone stock D16Z6 at 12psi with a good tune, daily driven 50 miles to and 50 miles back from work, and i can just about garuntee im above your HP goal and while still being very reliable
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LightWeightED8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Exospeed offers it, Anybody rockin this buildup or know someone who has it?
http://exospeed.com/products.php?prod_id=594 </TD></TR></TABLE>
For $5000 you could have one hell of an N/A B series.
http://exospeed.com/products.php?prod_id=594 </TD></TR></TABLE>
For $5000 you could have one hell of an N/A B series.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bottles are for babies...
but body kits are for ******s.
my nitrous kit put out more than your motor will to the wheels.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahaha... and
HOLY ****!!!, 6 thousand dolars for a a6
you can build and turbo a ls/vtec and put down twice as much power than that for 6k
but body kits are for ******s.
my nitrous kit put out more than your motor will to the wheels.
</TD></TR></TABLE>hahaha... and
HOLY ****!!!, 6 thousand dolars for a a6
you can build and turbo a ls/vtec and put down twice as much power than that for 6k
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FBS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
For $5000 you could have one hell of an N/A B series.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup for $5000 you could have a bad *** Datsun 510 too!!
For $5000 you could have one hell of an N/A B series.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup for $5000 you could have a bad *** Datsun 510 too!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by exospeedAMcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yup for $5000 you could have a bad *** Datsun 510 too!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can have a bad *** datsun 510 for less then that
i had my L-16 turbo'd for damn cheap and it hauled for a long time, could always go with the VG30DET or rotary, even seen a V-8 in one
Yup for $5000 you could have a bad *** Datsun 510 too!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>you can have a bad *** datsun 510 for less then that
i had my L-16 turbo'd for damn cheap and it hauled for a long time, could always go with the VG30DET or rotary, even seen a V-8 in one


