hullo all -

ben here from OZ ~ i have a stock EG5 Si honda civic...within 2 months i will be running a full ITR setup.

Still , ive decided to take off the ps belt for an experiment ( i intend to run no ps/ac etc) - and after a short while i am growing to like the feeling.

Questions.

Running a simple loop or resevior + loop on a ps rack - long run is there any disadvantages ? IE premature wear on the rack etc ?

Can anyone here who runs a loop setup , inform me upon how you are going ? IE experience on the track , longevity etc etc etc.

Also , ONE thing that worries me - is the lack of immediate counter-steer ability...if you loose the back slightly there is little chance or regaining it ( i have foudn out sofar) - anyone have any tips for adjusting driving style ?

many thanks ben

 

You can read the car better, there is more feel in it.

When you turn the wheel you need to exert more realistic amount of effort, rather than just fllinging the car around. Although having PS really only matters in parking lots and really low speed situations.

 

With the pump still connected you must exert more force than you will once you have looped the system and added a breather.

There was a guy selling overpriced kits on here but I think he got banned. search for padawan.

 

i looped my civic [has entire gsr steering rack] feels fine, but when i turn the wheel to do a u turn it generally turns with out my effort. i dont know if thats good or bad but yeah..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by superpho &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i looped my civic [has entire gsr steering rack] feels fine, but when i turn the wheel to do a u turn it generally turns with out my effort. i dont know if thats good or bad but yeah..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good stuff - Yeah , the wheels will self-correct due to only road resistance + momentum controlling them and not the engine...overall its a much better feeling ive foudn sofar.

Anyone had issues with racks over time ? Also , what is the correct setup with the resevior + breather ? Im contemplating simply using a spare PS fluid resevior , and hookign it up to the in + out and placing it tidily on the firewall.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There was a guy selling overpriced kits on here but I think he got banned. search for padawan.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have not been banned, and there is nothing "over-priced" about the kits that I offer. As many, many people can attest to, my aim is not to rip anyone off in any way, but instead to help. As with other things in life, someone who wanted to "DIY" could source all the necessary components from the various suppliers for a bit less than what my kit pricing is. However, if you take the time to add up the costs of each component included in the kit (plus shipping from each company) and the fact that I include complete instructions, a diagram, and every minor detail necessary to complete the installation all in one box, you'll find that the cost is quite fair. I put a tremendous amount os effort into the kits and pride myself on the positive feedback that I've always received from fellow H-T members.

If you object to my kits for some reason, that is certainly your prerogative, but I would greatly appreciate it if, in the future, you could refrain from posting misleading or derogatory information regarding me.

 

keep the crap out of this thread thanks.

BTW...does anyone know how to remove the High pressure line (near the firewall , that comes off the rack) ? It appears to be machined pressed into place...any way rather than cutting ?

Or , unhook from the pump motor itself ? And replace with some nice braided lines ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bennjamin@ozhonda.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW...does anyone know how to remove the High pressure line (near the firewall , that comes off the rack) ? It appears to be machined pressed into place...any way rather than cutting ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The line is not machined into place. It simply unscrews from the rack.

 

"someone who wanted to "DIY" could source all the necessary components from the various suppliers for a bit less than what my kit pricing is."

Well that's what I did hence my opinion that paying a middle man is a waste of money. You didn't make or assemble anything (besides instructions). It's still a DIY even with your "kit". You could have just wrote a how-to and put up links to the supplier like everyone else does. ie this thread which is nearly the same idea: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1527379

various suppliers = 2 suppliers: http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php? , http://secureperformanceorder....yID=3

Anyway, my opinion is in no way inappropriate, misleading, or derogatory. Paying more than you need to is overpaying = overpriced. I don't mean this to be offensive at all. It's a simple statement of the obvious.


Looping the lines and putting on a breather or resevoir doesn't hurt the longevity of the rack. Depending on what style of racing you're involved in, you may prefer power steering or not. For example, rally racing on tarmac you want power steering. Drag racing you do not. You don't want it if you take your engine up into high RPMs. However, you could always get an underdrive pulley and get the best of both worlds. I personally decided to completely remove it to make ignition timing easier, weight reduction, and to move the alternator to a more accessible location.

 

reply i wanted. Thanks ~

I have my theory worked out - i have my resevior etc etc - i just need the exact size of the 2 adapters that go into the hi + low pressure exit/entry on the rack gearbox...and that would rubber piping + clamps be OK ?

Can you reply , or simply Private message me ?

thanks again ben

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
various suppliers = 2 suppliers: http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php? , http://secureperformanceorder....yID=3</TD></TR></TABLE>

In fact, the parts in the kit come from 4+ different suppliers, and again, if you add up the cost of each individual component plus shipping from each manufacturer or distributor, the term "overpriced" is inappropriate. Overpriced is a $200 set of grounding wires with an overall materials cost of under $30, not a kit that is priced a few dollar higher than the sum of its constituent parts.

I now understand that you did not intend your post to be derogatory, though my comment regarding misleading information was directed at your statement that I had been "banned", which clearly carries a negative implication about me and my conduct here on H-T.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bennjamin@ozhonda.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have my theory worked out - i have my resevior etc etc - i just need the exact size of the 2 adapters that go into the hi + low pressure exit/entry on the rack gearbox...and that would rubber piping + clamps be OK ?

Can you reply , or simply Private message me ?

thanks again ben</TD></TR></TABLE>

PM sent.

 

Banned, topic locked, whatever. Sorry.

You didn't MAKE anything. You withheld information so that you could make money, instead of engaging in the HT spirit of free information. Think of what this site would become if everyone starts taking cues from you.

If I remember correctly, it's a -10AN.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You didn't MAKE anything. You withheld information so that you could make money, instead of engaging in the HT spirit of free information. Think of what this site would become if everyone starts taking cues from you.

If I remember correctly, it's a -10AN.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't withhold any information, and it's all freely available via the search feature. I've helped and contributed tremendously to this board and to individual members for years before you even arrived, so your implication that my desire on H-T is "to make money", or is anything other than to help people, is laughable and grossly incorrect. If everyone started "taking cues from me", this site would be a place of respectful and helpful members who go out of their way to answer the questions of others, since that is what I have always done and will continue to do. The kits began, and remain, as a hobby for me, and the small amount of "profit" built into the pricing is such that few people would go through the trouble of assembling and sending the kits unless they enjoyed doing so.

Though I have already PM'd the original poster to help answer his questions, in the "H-T spirit of information" (and for those who don't know how to use the search} the high pressure fitting on the rack is threaded as 14x1.5 mm. It is not an -AN size.