couple quick questions before starting (balljoints, alignment etc..)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 15, 2006 | 08:05 AM
  #1  
crxaddikt's Avatar
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 965
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, Texas, United States
Default couple quick questions before starting (balljoints, alignment etc..)

which things will make me have to do an alignment immediately after doing them ? rack along w/ outer tie-rods? upper control arms w/ balljoints? lower balljoints? or none at all?


is it absolutely necessary to really have to remove the whole knuckle to replace new lower ball joints?? or is there a way around it or a trick? i am putting new balljoint so i don't mind ruining the old one to get it out, just would be nice to keep knuckle in if possible.


do i really need to replace the upper balljoint also?
because it is'nt blown out or torn like the lower balljoint bushing, it seems pretty solid, same with the upper arm it does'nt have play or anything either when grabbing and trying to move, its just solid.

are there any
places where i have to put marks for where something was before for alignment reasons like near upper arm or anything?

thanks for any answers, these were just my final things i wanted confirmation on before starting and ordering parts.

steering rack and outer tie-rods are the main important things i need to replace and even know its good to do upper/lower balljoints at the same time, i might pass just cause it will take more time and i am in a total transition of moving to a new place and this is just a distraction and i just want to get it done with.
Reply
Old Mar 15, 2006 | 09:34 AM
  #2  
bagpipe goatee's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 0
From: Madison, WI, United States of America
Default

well, technically an alignment should be done when changing anything, but i don't do it unless i mess with the rack/tie rods, and my car doesn't go through tires.

if a balljoint's good, and it's boot isn't torn, it doesn't need to be replaced. sometimes a good idea, though, but if you've priced those upper ones, well, you know what i'm talking about.

another thing to remember, is not all brands of replacement balljoints are equal quality.
Reply
Old Mar 15, 2006 | 10:16 AM
  #3  
crxaddikt's Avatar
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 965
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, Texas, United States
Default Re: (bagpipe goatee)

thanks for the opinion/info

would you happen to know if it is necessary to remove the steering knuckle in order to put in a new front lower balljoint? (not talking about the outer tie-rod one, the other balljoint at end of LCA)

if i can just do outer tie-rods and rack without having to do the lower balljoint it would be much easier, only reason i am thinking i have to do lower balljoints is cause the bushing is torn apart, they also have no cotter pin in the catle nut, but i was wondering if i skipped doing them and just put a cotter pin would it be safe??

cause if i can just do the rack and outer tie-rods then its so much easier, i just wish i knew if its really necessary to do the lower balljoints??
Reply
Old Mar 15, 2006 | 08:13 PM
  #4  
mahatma's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 1
From: NKY
Default Re: (crxaddikt)

If they're busted, and you're already in there replacing stuff, then YES do the lower balljoints. I always remove the hub and bring it to a shop with the new balljoints and have them pressed in, unless you've got the skills to punch out & reinstall them yourself.

I'm guessing your axle is seized into the hub? Why don't you want to take them off?
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Kevs02Accord
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
9
Nov 8, 2011 04:04 AM
MalcolmV8
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
8
Apr 5, 2011 09:01 AM
8_6 luder
Honda Prelude
4
Jun 22, 2007 03:31 PM
turbo sol
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
23
Mar 3, 2003 08:12 PM
Frosty_spl
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
5
Oct 29, 2002 11:05 AM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:59 PM.