hi all,
I will install my turbo soon ( T3 ) and I was wondering if there is a specific oil I should use. For my engine I was usingt valvoline max life wich I found awsome beacuse on my oil change it was flush where it should be but with other cheaper I had some lost, burned I guess...

Should I stay with this or should I put syntetic or will syntetic be bad or... I don't know...

Any advices?

 

Synthetic is good. I use Valvoline Max life in between track days, then switch to synthetic for the extra thermal fortitude needed at the track.

 

I think this topic has been discussed before, synthetic oil versus conventional oil in a boosted engine.

I cant remember the verdict though. Try a search.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1392507
https://honda-tech.com/zerothre...46713
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1118245
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1103776

 

I guess i found nothing cause I suck in english, thx a lot.

 

Dont ask this question ask please its a retarded one and its really obvious.

 

my turbo rebuilder swears by syntec. my car is using it as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my turbo rebuilder swears by syntec. my car is using it as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Brand new built motor, sure synthetic is great, otherwise stick to dino oil and change it every 3k.

 

My shop said that people at Precision claimed synthetic oils (like 0-30) that were thin, tended to cause some leakage by the turbo seals.

 

i love my 15-50 mobile 1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont ask this question ask please its a retarded one and its really obvious.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't see that it's so obvious when nobody agree on wich one to take and so many don't know wich one to take ...

 

just use valvoline 10w30 and change it every 1.500 miles

 

just use valvoline 10w30 and change it every 1.500 miles

 

Only cavemen use Dino oil.

I don't care what your setup is, unless you're carrying a club and dragging your knuckles on the ground, go with synthetic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilvia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i love my 15-50 mobile 1</TD></TR></TABLE>


You are adding rpms to your spool up time.


https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=974914


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Macan00n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been experimenting with some different oil weights over the past 2months and I thought I would share what I discovered. First, relevant information about my setup setup...

b16a3
T3 Super 60
2 1/4" piping to intercooler
2 1/2" piping from intercooler
10psi daily, only running 6psi(internally gated) right now due to broken boost controller

Back in June I had been running Castrol Syntec Blend 10w30. No real complaints, but when it I did my first oil change (1k miles) it was much blacker than I had expected.

So after reading a little here on Honda-Tech I decided to step up to some Mobil1 15w50. A few people here swore by it so I decided to give it a shot. Well, I IMMEDIATELY noticed a change in my car. The turbo previously began to spool right at 2800rpms, full boost hit HARD at 4k. After switching to 15w50 the turbo did not begin spooling until around 3500rpms, full boost hitting at 4.5 not really as hard as I was accustomed to.

This might not sound like a huge deal, but for someone who uses their car everyday on the street, it really felt less fun. The one good thing I can say about the 15w50 is it made the transition into boost much smoother, but the car felt less powerful none the less. Also, it is important to note about 2weeks into the experiment I began to notice a oil-burning smell after boosting. I later discovered that the thick oil was backing up a little bit inside the turbo and being burned up during boost. NOT GOOD.

I decided it was time to change and my choice was Mobil1 10w30. The car was IMMEDIATELY back to it's old self. Spool dropped back down to 2800ish rpms and the fool boost once again hits hard right at 3800rpm. Also, no more oil burning smell after boosting.

I just thought this info was interesting and worth posting since oil weight isn't really something that most people think about when building their turbo setups. I was very surprised at the results. Im not recommending that everyone pick up some 10w30synthetic, just putting my own experiences out there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Macan00n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You are adding rpms to your spool up time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe he has large bearing clearances and needs to run thicker oil?

 

wow...ive been running supertech oil (walmart oil) for about 3 years now on the same b16a2 that has not been rebuilt or anything since the build 3 years ago. 15-30 supertech. wix oil filters. i have not had a single issue with anything, no leakage, no oil pressure problems, i have pulled the oilpan off a few times, ill just keep changing my oil every 2 events

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brand new built motor, sure synthetic is great, otherwise stick to dino oil and change it every 3k.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

not really brand new built motors should use regular oil, and not synthetic and change after 100 then 500 then 1000 and 2000 then 2500 thats what i did for my friends motor and it's been runing great on regular oil 19,000 miles on the block

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quad-Damage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

not really brand new built motors should use regular oil, and not synthetic and change after 100 then 500 then 1000 and 2000 then 2500 thats what i did for my friends motor and it's been runing great on regular oil 19,000 miles on the block</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the proper breakin dino oil is recommended, which I should have clarified. However after that point, it's up to the user as to what to run.

I run Napa's (valvoline equivilent) 10w40 with great results. 10w30 burns just a little oil....

Ran on all my cars, change every 3k. Works great

 

blabber

I run detergentless dino oil for an initial engine run .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Only cavemen use Dino oil.

I don't care what your setup is, unless you're carrying a club and dragging your knuckles on the ground, go with synthetic.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

^ my previous reply was a fib.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ my previous reply was a fib.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ha, well break-in is obviously a different story.

I also start on ND-30. You know, the stuff at Autozone that says "not for use in automobiles." What the hell is it for then? They employees there don't even know.

 

Okay I lied about lying.... .

There's really no good reason to use it ND oil for initial run, but I've done it before.

 

I start my new motors on ND. Why not - it's like a buck a quart and I drain it after 20 minutes.