well i am ready to build my 2000gsr tranny & want to use some top notch parts.
i know what clutch, & i already have a quaif. i will be putting down at leat 600whp when the car if fully tuned. im kepping the stock tranny so i can run in power street. any advice will help

 

http://gear-speed.com

 

what do u want done to your tranny? stronger syncros? custom gears?

 

i want it to be alot stronger fo shure. i dont know if they make beffed up geard , ive heard of the carbond syncros & are they that much better? also i think i will want to raise my gears up a little i will be making over 600whp with my new setup & i would assume i could launch better if first was a little higher as with the rest of the gears. my car is basically a drag car. it will get drove on the street a little. it took me a year to put 3,000miles on the car last year. so its not like ita a daily my no means. i just want to start out with a bad *** tranny & when i go full drag i will get a diff setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 86si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://gear-speed.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have their syncros and they are great.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i have their syncros and they are great.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Most of the time...the life a transmission will depend on the way its driven...just like an engine. You drive the hell out of it....misshift....over rev...expect to be building your engine again no matter how performance oriented the engine is. With the trans...miss a gear...force a gear to engage...Hight RPM drops....expect to be building your trans again. Remember that something always has to give or the damage goes to the next biggest part. You will rely heavy on clutch setups, slick size, axles, and driving that suits your needs and keeps your car in one piece. In the end there is no bullet-proof honda transmission. Synchros are made to give and that is why they are made of brass. I would rather replace a synchro than a gearset Everything requires maintenance in some fashion when you are asking a lot from it (racing and spirited driving)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL IMPORT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any advice will help</TD></TR></TABLE>

For 600hp, you don't need a completely new gearset to go fast. You can still go fast on a synchro box, reliably. Just focus on shifting cleanly and not "jamming" gears in. You seem to have all you need. LSD, High performance clutch (Multiple disc prefferably), and axles. I've been running DDS stage 5 axles on a 750hp 26" tire, Gforce shifter race car and have had no problems. Just please remember to preload while launching. I guarantee this will prolong the life of parts you invested in. Now, on the other hand, if money is not the biggest issue you can go with the new Liberty Gears straight cut gear set (clutchless shifting). They are also coming out with a billet bellhousing to handle upwards of 850hp applications. Look to spend in the range of $8-$9,000. This may seem like a lot right now but from the looks of it this setup seems nearly bulletproof and can shave 3-4 tenths in shifting time alone! The choice is up to you. Good luck on your build.

 

oh man. Liberty straight cut gear set is where its at! i want one of those.

 

i started drag racingt with preloading but it wasnt working for me, i kept on leaving the brake up a little . i figures out the best rpm i could launch at & let the car do just a little wheel hop & i was braking into the 1.9 rang in my 60 ft with only 191hp. so thats what i did. unless u can give me good details about pre load thing i might try it again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL IMPORT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i started drag racingt with preloading but it wasnt working for me, i kept on leaving the brake up a little .</TD></TR></TABLE>
take the lock out of the e-brake handle and it can't get stuck. it will just fall down when you release it. worked nice for me, even though i suck at preloading

 

[QUOTE=ALL IMPORT]unless u can give me good details about pre load thing i might try it again[/QU

Like anything else. Practice. I'm sure you already know how to preload. Theres many topics on here as wll if search is used. Don't expect to be great at it the first couple tries. It will probably take you more than 50 passes to finally get somewhat comfortable with it.

 

do most people take the lock pin out

 

Yes, a lot of people remove that lock pin.. Hell, you could run a line lock if you wanted instead..

 

A good alternative for people who preload with the E brake is a "drift button".

That way, the you can just drop the E brake with out worrying if it will not drop all the way, but you can still engage it when you park your car. I posted it in this thread awhile back. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1506610&page=2 Another cheaper alternative, is to grind all the teeth except the last few on the E brake. That way, it wont lock unless you pull it all the way up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 808 DB8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">grind all the teeth except the last few on the E brake. That way, it wont lock unless you pull it all the way up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is what I would do. Also, adjust the ebrake so little movement of the handle starts to engage the brake but not drag when fully released.

 

l like the grinding method the best, thanks alot for the advice.