GSR TURBO NOT SPOOLING CORRECTLY
I HAVE A 94 GSR TURBO and everytime i give it full throttle it starts to bog and than gain boost, any ideas on what it can be? it has been tuned not to long ago so any ideas?
476 whp / 323 tq @ 17 PSI
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yea, give us more info on the set-up. noticing you are a noob to honda-tech, have u heard fo something called "turbo lag"??
476 whp / 323 tq @ 17 PSI
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,990
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComptonsF1NEST »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sound like u are dumping a ton of feul into ur motor and it wont go anymore. What is ur setup</TD></TR></TABLE>
well he supposedly got it tuned, a proper tune evens out the fuel ratio. hopefully its tuned on a dyno and no cheap street tune
well he supposedly got it tuned, a proper tune evens out the fuel ratio. hopefully its tuned on a dyno and no cheap street tune
yeah i think it was a cheap tune and i'm pretty sure its tuned because it has launch control so it should have some sort of tuning setup, but i have a drag turbo kit w/a t3/t4 garret and it has 550cc rc injectors, i think it's runnin to rich and its not turbo lag cuz it gains boost and than it just stops, a guy at a local speed shop said the turbo could be blow but i dont know .....
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I've had the same problem happen to me before in my 95 Mitsu Eclipse GST and in fact it was a blown turbo.
I raised the boost from 12psi to 16psi on the stock turbo. The car drove fine for a few weeks no matter how I drove it. Then one day I was not able to go past 10psi with the pedal to the metal because the car acted as you described like if it were running way rich fluttering and bogging down. If I eased off the accelerator I could drive fine at maybe 3psi.
When the turbo stops flowing a consistent amount of air through the system the car reacts in this way because the air/fuel curve is not even close to the base map at the time the turbo gives up because there is always more fuel than air.
My turbo had in and out play but no side to side and it had some minor oil seeping
at this time I upgraded my turbo to a t3/t4 57 trim boosting 18psi.
maybe you were also abusing your turbo a little bit it might be time to upgrade once again.
You can inspect the turbo to rule it out as a possibility.
1. Take off the intercooler charge pipe and the inducer filter or screen off of your compressor housing.
2. Inspect the charge pipe for any oil presence you should have none at all.
3. Put your index finger on the center of the compressor wheel and put a little pressure up and down & side to side. You should only be able to move it about 1-2mm. Any more than that and you need a rebuild. (Except for a ball bearing turbo which should not have any side to side or up and down play at all.)
4. Use some needle nose pliers but be real careful that you don't bend any of the fins on the wheel, get a hold of the nut and try to move the complete internal cartridge pushing in and pulling out real softly. If you feel any play at all you need a rebuild. ( except once again for a ball bearing turbo which should have just a little bit of play.)
I raised the boost from 12psi to 16psi on the stock turbo. The car drove fine for a few weeks no matter how I drove it. Then one day I was not able to go past 10psi with the pedal to the metal because the car acted as you described like if it were running way rich fluttering and bogging down. If I eased off the accelerator I could drive fine at maybe 3psi.
When the turbo stops flowing a consistent amount of air through the system the car reacts in this way because the air/fuel curve is not even close to the base map at the time the turbo gives up because there is always more fuel than air.
My turbo had in and out play but no side to side and it had some minor oil seeping
at this time I upgraded my turbo to a t3/t4 57 trim boosting 18psi.
maybe you were also abusing your turbo a little bit it might be time to upgrade once again.
You can inspect the turbo to rule it out as a possibility.
1. Take off the intercooler charge pipe and the inducer filter or screen off of your compressor housing.
2. Inspect the charge pipe for any oil presence you should have none at all.
3. Put your index finger on the center of the compressor wheel and put a little pressure up and down & side to side. You should only be able to move it about 1-2mm. Any more than that and you need a rebuild. (Except for a ball bearing turbo which should not have any side to side or up and down play at all.)
4. Use some needle nose pliers but be real careful that you don't bend any of the fins on the wheel, get a hold of the nut and try to move the complete internal cartridge pushing in and pulling out real softly. If you feel any play at all you need a rebuild. ( except once again for a ball bearing turbo which should have just a little bit of play.)
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