DA Brake booster install(pics)
Well I'm not sure if this has been discussed in detail yet. But I searched and didn't find a thread with pics so I'll post my install pics, not too extensive but this is my 1st write up so be gentle.
Well the 1st thing you will have to do is remove the 2 bolts that hold the MC to the BB (12MM), and then you will have to remove the brake lines. then from there you will have to go undeneath your dashboard and remove the 4 bolts(12MM) that hold the BB to the firewall. there is also a cotter pin, that you have to take off of the BB. from there you can pop the BB off.(sorry no pics of this portion of it as I didn't think to even have my camera ready I'll go take pics of these portions in the next day or so.
Side by Side comparison of the original MC and the DA one

After I took of my old BB I compared it to the DA one that I picked.





This is the position of where the bolts would be, they are kind of a pain to reach but you can get it without a swivel. That's the steering column on the right

From here it is pretty much the same thing as taking it off only in reverse.
The DA BB sitting in, it was an explitive getting it in there but I eventually got it.

I had a 13/16 MC on my stock BB this will not work on the DA BB because of how they are angled.
13/16

15/16

After that all you have to do is bleed the system and you all set to test out your new brakes. The entire time I have had the car the BB has been bad and I didn't know it. So I can't really do a before and after but I can say that these brakes are excellent
. I can't wait untill I can throw on my DA front brakes.
My car is happy now that it has brakes.

Modified by M15 at 3:57 PM 3/7/2006
Modified by M15 at 6:42 PM 3/7/2006
Modified by M15 at 8:21 PM 3/7/2006
Well the 1st thing you will have to do is remove the 2 bolts that hold the MC to the BB (12MM), and then you will have to remove the brake lines. then from there you will have to go undeneath your dashboard and remove the 4 bolts(12MM) that hold the BB to the firewall. there is also a cotter pin, that you have to take off of the BB. from there you can pop the BB off.(sorry no pics of this portion of it as I didn't think to even have my camera ready I'll go take pics of these portions in the next day or so.
Side by Side comparison of the original MC and the DA one

After I took of my old BB I compared it to the DA one that I picked.





This is the position of where the bolts would be, they are kind of a pain to reach but you can get it without a swivel. That's the steering column on the right

From here it is pretty much the same thing as taking it off only in reverse.
The DA BB sitting in, it was an explitive getting it in there but I eventually got it.

I had a 13/16 MC on my stock BB this will not work on the DA BB because of how they are angled.
13/16

15/16

After that all you have to do is bleed the system and you all set to test out your new brakes. The entire time I have had the car the BB has been bad and I didn't know it. So I can't really do a before and after but I can say that these brakes are excellent
. I can't wait untill I can throw on my DA front brakes.My car is happy now that it has brakes.

Modified by M15 at 3:57 PM 3/7/2006
Modified by M15 at 6:42 PM 3/7/2006
Modified by M15 at 8:21 PM 3/7/2006
nice, awhile ago I drove around with my brakes so bad, I changed everything and didnt really know to check the master cylinder, once I changed it, all was good!!
Good write-up and photos!
Two quick points;
1) It's possible to use the smaller fluid resevoir if clearance is an issue or you want to keep it looking stock. Some people will say that you need the volume of the larger one but that isn't true once you have your brakes bleed fully. (I'm running DA fronts on EX spindles and DA rear disks, no problem)
2) I found that it was easier to get the booster in place with the clevis removed. I've got a B18C with Skunk 2 intake and it's REAL close. If you remove the clevis, you should spend the time when you re-install it to set your pedal height for heal & toeing.
Wes
Two quick points;
1) It's possible to use the smaller fluid resevoir if clearance is an issue or you want to keep it looking stock. Some people will say that you need the volume of the larger one but that isn't true once you have your brakes bleed fully. (I'm running DA fronts on EX spindles and DA rear disks, no problem)
2) I found that it was easier to get the booster in place with the clevis removed. I've got a B18C with Skunk 2 intake and it's REAL close. If you remove the clevis, you should spend the time when you re-install it to set your pedal height for heal & toeing.
Wes
I wouldn't have been able to use either of my smaller resovoirs because of how they mount to the BB, It may be possible I'm just going off what I experienced today, and I did not want to take the clevice off that would have been a whole nother hour of headachle that I didn't need.
But wes how do you like your DA brakes compared to stock wanna get some opinions before I do mine and can I use EX calipers on DA rotors?
But wes how do you like your DA brakes compared to stock wanna get some opinions before I do mine and can I use EX calipers on DA rotors?
Well my booster wasn't working, and my car wouldn't stop properly. That was the main reason. I have heard everyone who swaps over the DA brakes uses these as well. and I have yet to hear anything negative.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M15 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well my booster wasn't working</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats a good reason
thats a good reason
Trending Topics
I'll make sure that I throw in pics of lots of females when I do my DA front brakes. I will promise that there will be at least a cleavage shot in that one so if anyone wants to see cleavage and hase DA calipers for sale hit me up.
The nylon resevoir is easy to swap. All you have to do is remove the clamp that goes around it.
There is a good reason for swapping the booster at the same time as the master cylinder!!!
The reason for the larger diameter master cylinder is so that any distance moved by the piston, there is more fluid moved. The bad thing is that it also results with a greater pressure required on the pedal for an equal line pressure. The DA booster provides more "boost" than the stock one and it gets the required pressure at the pedal back to what it should be for good feel!
As for how my brakes are with the DA front brakes; it's great. However due to the amount of other things swapped, it's hard to say what part of it makes the biggest difference.
Wes
There is a good reason for swapping the booster at the same time as the master cylinder!!!
The reason for the larger diameter master cylinder is so that any distance moved by the piston, there is more fluid moved. The bad thing is that it also results with a greater pressure required on the pedal for an equal line pressure. The DA booster provides more "boost" than the stock one and it gets the required pressure at the pedal back to what it should be for good feel!
As for how my brakes are with the DA front brakes; it's great. However due to the amount of other things swapped, it's hard to say what part of it makes the biggest difference.
Wes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by essex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No offense but whats the point of using that booster? If you want the bigger master why not just use an 88 prelude?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Also because with the bigger booster and MC you have less pedal travel. Thus allowing greater fluid movement in shorter pedal travel. I have this done to my car and it is wonderful for the track. I really saw no great upgrade in the bigger MC but that is my opinion I couldn't feel the difference.
And I love my bigger brakes up front. They can really whoa the car down. I have the EX/ITR/Prelude rotors up front. They are really overkill for the street but they are still nice.
Also because with the bigger booster and MC you have less pedal travel. Thus allowing greater fluid movement in shorter pedal travel. I have this done to my car and it is wonderful for the track. I really saw no great upgrade in the bigger MC but that is my opinion I couldn't feel the difference.
And I love my bigger brakes up front. They can really whoa the car down. I have the EX/ITR/Prelude rotors up front. They are really overkill for the street but they are still nice.
i just saw whaty ou posted on my thread a few minutes ago, and then i found your thread. Now im really looking forward to doing this later this summer. When doing this did you replace the gasket that goes inthe middle of the firewall and the brake booster, or did you just stick it on plain jane? thanks.
I looked at it and thought about if replacing it would be necesary and didn't see any reason to, it may need to be done but unless a problem arises I don't plan on messing with it. I live life on the edge.
nice post but also check out the brake upgrade mentioned on fourth gen hatch..he goes into detail also, and i followed his directions and am now sporting the 90-93 DA Teg MC and the Brake Booster.....along with some new steel braided lines...my car wont be needing another form of upgrade soon..
Well I finally got my DA calipers. so there will be an update not quite sure if I will add it on to this thread or if there will be a new one, but you all can expect to see a nother thread about installing DA brakes(not really that it is necesary) but I have been bored, so sometime tomorrow night, it will be up.
nice write up
i've done this swap too long time ago together with the DA front knuckles/brakes, prop valve, etc. and stopping power has improved a lot.
the only thing i regret now is that the fluid reservoir is an obstruction to the tower bar. i can't use my DC strut bar
i'm hoping to swap an EG Si 15/16" MC/Booster soon since the booster is half the size(thinner) compared to the double diaphramed DA boosters. that way it'll clear the use of any tower bar.
i've done this swap too long time ago together with the DA front knuckles/brakes, prop valve, etc. and stopping power has improved a lot.
the only thing i regret now is that the fluid reservoir is an obstruction to the tower bar. i can't use my DC strut bar
i'm hoping to swap an EG Si 15/16" MC/Booster soon since the booster is half the size(thinner) compared to the double diaphramed DA boosters. that way it'll clear the use of any tower bar.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





