CAI and Midrange Power - Quick Facts
Hey I realize that this topic has been drawn out a million times before, and I thought I had already reached a decision, BUT recent posts have made me reconsider (and I can't get search results!!
)
QUESTION: Does the AEM ROB LOWEND power to make small gains at high end??
by lowend I mean 2000-3500 RPM. Does it rob midrange? 3500-6000? how much honest gain is expected at high end?
Sorry for the farily newbie like questions about the CAI, but I'm not entirely convinced the AEM CAI is worth the headaches most people talk about on the board (ac rubbing, whistling, worries about hydrolock etc.etc.) for a 2hp gain at high end. I'd prob love the sound, and if theres any midrange to be gained, without a significant lowend loss...i'm all for it!
Could someone please take the time and set my facts straight?
THANKS!!
)QUESTION: Does the AEM ROB LOWEND power to make small gains at high end??
by lowend I mean 2000-3500 RPM. Does it rob midrange? 3500-6000? how much honest gain is expected at high end?
Sorry for the farily newbie like questions about the CAI, but I'm not entirely convinced the AEM CAI is worth the headaches most people talk about on the board (ac rubbing, whistling, worries about hydrolock etc.etc.) for a 2hp gain at high end. I'd prob love the sound, and if theres any midrange to be gained, without a significant lowend loss...i'm all for it!
Could someone please take the time and set my facts straight?
THANKS!!
Rage....
What the CAI does is let the car breathe. The OEM intake is a series of baffles, resonators and tubes which slow down the air so that the car is environmentally friendly.
The reason to put on an Intake, Header, High-Flow Cat, and exhaust is so that the car can breathe optimally.
No robbing of power in the low end from just installing the CAI. If installed correctly (with the bypass) there will never be a headache.
I have no rubbing or worries about hydrolock.
[Modified by 5-SpeedFreak, 4:37 PM 3/31/2002]
What the CAI does is let the car breathe. The OEM intake is a series of baffles, resonators and tubes which slow down the air so that the car is environmentally friendly.
The reason to put on an Intake, Header, High-Flow Cat, and exhaust is so that the car can breathe optimally.
No robbing of power in the low end from just installing the CAI. If installed correctly (with the bypass) there will never be a headache.
I have no rubbing or worries about hydrolock.
[Modified by 5-SpeedFreak, 4:37 PM 3/31/2002]
I realize what the AEM allows your car to do maybe I just phrased my question wrong.
The reason for me asking it that a lot of times i've seen people complaining on archived H-T posts (when they worked!) that when they put back on their original intake arm, they said they felt like they gained back some lost midrange.
So you guys are saying theres only gains with AEM, no losses in hp across the entire band whatsoever??
The reason for me asking it that a lot of times i've seen people complaining on archived H-T posts (when they worked!) that when they put back on their original intake arm, they said they felt like they gained back some lost midrange.
So you guys are saying theres only gains with AEM, no losses in hp across the entire band whatsoever??
I haven't noticed any power loss from mine either. And even though I installed an ITR with a larger pipe, I haven't had any rubbing issues either and for the time being (fingers crossed) I'm running my CAI in Oregon without the bypass.
The reason for me asking it that a lot of times i've seen people complaining on archived H-T posts (when they worked!) that when they put back on their original intake arm, they said they felt like they gained back some lost midrange.
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Hm, I though the throttle response was a bit better when I installed my CAI. No losses registered here; the car is every bit as easy to granny around town (2-3k) as before. I don't have any trouble with rubbing, but you must install the intake exactly in accordance with the instructions.
The reason people think they lose low end might be because of that "hump" at 4-5k rpms. If you put the stock intake back in you would get more constant torque throughout the rpm range, but with the CAI you're definitely getting less torque at 3000 than at 4500...but you're also getting less at 5500 than at 4500. That's why you can't put too much stock in the old "butt dyno".
Quote Teggiefrom1134
"Who the f*CK cares about 2000-3500"
And teggiefrom1134 gets the inteligent post of the day award.
If you can't help. Shut up. I asked a question, and most people who took the time to respond gave some excellent feedback yours however, was a waste of time.
"Who the f*CK cares about 2000-3500"
And teggiefrom1134 gets the inteligent post of the day award.
If you can't help. Shut up. I asked a question, and most people who took the time to respond gave some excellent feedback yours however, was a waste of time.
True, but you don't do your daily driving at the top of the range (most of the time
). So it's a valid question from the point of someone who uses the car for tooling about town.
). So it's a valid question from the point of someone who uses the car for tooling about town.
Yeah, but for daily town driving, you're not gonna want a great performing car anyways. I mean, driving to the supermarket and back in traffic, who cars if your low end loses 2 whp?
I suppose it doesn't matter if it's only 2 WHP. At the same time, losses of any kind are a pain because it might mean you have to rev the car harder going up hills, etc. *shrugs*
Well, down here in the tail end of the Appalachians, with lotsa windy roads and logging trucks hoggging those very same roads, my GSR w/ DIY brand intake and 18 degrees advance seems to have no problem maintaining itself w/ no lugging in fifth. Top gear acceleration sucks, but it is going up 8%+ grades, through curves, etc. w/ no downshifting.
Very much better than stock down low. So is midrange.
Very much better than stock down low. So is midrange.
Now there's an endorsment of aftermarket intakes. It really makes sense, though. If your engine doesn't have to work as hard to pull in air, it should actually have more power throughout the rev range.
Top gear acceleration always sucks. Overdrive'll do, that, y'know? Unless you have an insane amount of power, of course.
Top gear acceleration always sucks. Overdrive'll do, that, y'know? Unless you have an insane amount of power, of course.
Top gear acceleration always sucks. Overdrive'll do, that, y'know? Unless you have an insane amount of power, of course.
Worse than usual, I mean. Like taking around a full minute to gain 10MPH
No just in specific instances of hill climbing. Top gear acceleration is never good, as you've noted (this is an assessment of torque, BTW), but you really notice when going through the hills.
That the engine can hold its speed and still manage to accelerate, even slowly is a testament to what an intake can do for you, esp at 40-50 MPH, which is down low in the powerband.
The top gear acceleration is vastly improved over stock.
That the engine can hold its speed and still manage to accelerate, even slowly is a testament to what an intake can do for you, esp at 40-50 MPH, which is down low in the powerband.
The top gear acceleration is vastly improved over stock.
does the bypass restrict air at all? Any losses in power after installing the bypass anyone? I am doing the suspension and figure i might as well get the bypass for piece of mind.
The bypass valve does not restrict airflow. However, it does create small losses (2 or 3 HP) because it interrupts the smooth airflow you get with an uncut intake. That's the other thing: you have to cut the intake piping. Not for the squeamish.
I have to admit I had the same though in my head that Teggiefrom mentioned.
Quote Teggiefrom1134
"Who the f*CK cares about 2000-3500"
However, your below qoute seems to be the time waster.
"If you can't help. Shut up. I asked a question, and most people who took the time to respond gave some excellent feedback yours however, was a waste of time."
If you are concerned with 2 horse that you'll likely only miss in first gear, then the part is simply not for you. The idea of the intake is to make power at the power end of your RPM range. Most of your shifts will be over 4,000 rpm. A good distance from any power loss. If your tooling around town, then you don't care about a 2 horsepower loss. Remember your tooling around town, right?
This is my final thought, the mod is about $250. Its a snap to install. Its been voted the best mod by SCC readers. If that doesn't convince you, I'm inclined to think that you merely like reading your thoughts.
Quote Teggiefrom1134
"Who the f*CK cares about 2000-3500"
However, your below qoute seems to be the time waster.
"If you can't help. Shut up. I asked a question, and most people who took the time to respond gave some excellent feedback yours however, was a waste of time."
If you are concerned with 2 horse that you'll likely only miss in first gear, then the part is simply not for you. The idea of the intake is to make power at the power end of your RPM range. Most of your shifts will be over 4,000 rpm. A good distance from any power loss. If your tooling around town, then you don't care about a 2 horsepower loss. Remember your tooling around town, right?
This is my final thought, the mod is about $250. Its a snap to install. Its been voted the best mod by SCC readers. If that doesn't convince you, I'm inclined to think that you merely like reading your thoughts.



