Type R cams!
I'm going to Buy Type-R cams for my B18C1. Will I need anything else to make it fit or make it work? Or is it just plug and play? Any modification needed? Sorry, I don't know these things. LMK! THanks!
Yea. I was about to ask if I'd feel a difference between my stock Cams and the ITR cams. How much gain can I expect from just ITR cams? Are they that much different from the GS-R cams?
Also, I heard that the CTR cams are bit more aggressive, but not noticeably. Heard that the money wasn't worth the CTR cams. Is that true?
Also, I heard that the CTR cams are bit more aggressive, but not noticeably. Heard that the money wasn't worth the CTR cams. Is that true?
Damn. I won't have the money for a VAFC until later. Will it hurt anything if I ran my car with the ITR cams without Cam Gears or a VAFC? I think I'll be running with just ITR cams alone for a couple months before getting Cam Gears and VAFC...
Trending Topics
There isn't anything wrong with just dropping them in. Its just that you won't see full potential with them until you get gears, vafc, and tune them. Your vtec x-over will be too soon and you'll feel a slight dip in power. But after that it'll kick ***.
Type R cams are highly recommended...i even have it on my car...the moment u test drive this...u will know its a different cams because the engine seems that its revving hard...and the rpm hangs...installation is pretty easy too...just dont forget to put hondabond on those cam seals and those rubber piece by the cam gears...so they dont leak...good luck bro
the type r cams mad that much of a noticeable difference, i don't see how, being as though the cams couldn't make all the horespower diffference between the GSR and type R, since the R has different compression, tranny, etc.
I plan on getting Type R cams soon also. I recomend you wait until you have money for the V-AFC, cams, and cam gears. Just get them piece by peace, that is what I'm doing.
1fastgsr on this board saw 176 whp w/ the cams and tuning I believe. They are definatly worth it. Don't forget about tuning though.
Once you get the cams...watch out type R's
...Stock one's that is
BTW: What kind of times could your expect w/ b18c5 cams ?? I was hoping for 14.4-14-5 w/ my set up
AEM Cai
dc 4-1 header
Tanabe hyper medallion or Apexi WS
v-afc
Type R cams
cam gears
Tuning
Oh yea, I know it was already said, but the reason people emphasize the vafc is your going to need to change your vtec cross over or else you'll bog...
[Modified by GSRdriver, 9:16 PM 3/31/2002]
1fastgsr on this board saw 176 whp w/ the cams and tuning I believe. They are definatly worth it. Don't forget about tuning though.
Once you get the cams...watch out type R's
...Stock one's that is
BTW: What kind of times could your expect w/ b18c5 cams ?? I was hoping for 14.4-14-5 w/ my set up
AEM Cai
dc 4-1 header
Tanabe hyper medallion or Apexi WS
v-afc
Type R cams
cam gears
Tuning
Oh yea, I know it was already said, but the reason people emphasize the vafc is your going to need to change your vtec cross over or else you'll bog...
[Modified by GSRdriver, 9:16 PM 3/31/2002]
I'd suggest getting type r intake valve springs. Move your current intake springs to the exhuast side. You'll also want a vtec controller, since 4400 is too low for any aftermarket/replacement cams.
Also, as for ctr cams, i read several places that cams gears can make up the difference in them, since the duration is the only diff. I may be wrong on what is fixed, but i do remember there isnt a difference once tuned.
Also, as for ctr cams, i read several places that cams gears can make up the difference in them, since the duration is the only diff. I may be wrong on what is fixed, but i do remember there isnt a difference once tuned.
it's alot of money, when u consider what all is needed, for them to run good. new IM - $300, VAFC - $300-$350, Type R Cams - $400 for pair for a good deal!and cam gears - around $200 so that's 1200 dollars not including the valve springs which are also recommended., or an upgraded computer to increase your rev limiter.
1200 dollars, that will yield u at most 10 HP with tuning, not really worth the money IMO, that's why i am saving for FI.
1200 dollars, that will yield u at most 10 HP with tuning, not really worth the money IMO, that's why i am saving for FI.
You get much more than 10whp, just dropping the cams in alone gives you at least 6-8 whp, tunning gives you another 6-8 whp, plus the manifold..there's another 6-8 whp. Your looking at 18 whp at least....Thats not bad for 1200
Plus reliablity wouldn't be an issue....
Then again there's the b20/b18c,I've heard 190 to the wheels for about 800, I've been thinking about it ...hehehe
Plus reliablity wouldn't be an issue....
Then again there's the b20/b18c,I've heard 190 to the wheels for about 800, I've been thinking about it ...hehehe
Here's my set-up:
1992 B17A
ITR cams
ITR intake manifold
Portflow Ti retainers
Toda cam gears
Hondata 2b
Before: 144 whp (just AEM & FPR)
After: 161 whp (+3 intake, -1 exhaust, FP @ 49 psi, 16 degrees timing)
This is with the factory compression.
Tuning is key, my friend.
1992 B17A
ITR cams
ITR intake manifold
Portflow Ti retainers
Toda cam gears
Hondata 2b
Before: 144 whp (just AEM & FPR)
After: 161 whp (+3 intake, -1 exhaust, FP @ 49 psi, 16 degrees timing)
This is with the factory compression.
Tuning is key, my friend.
u dont need R valve springs, u dont need a VAFC, u dont need cam gears, but what everyone is saying is to realize full potential of them its a good idea. u will feel a bit in the midrange to top end. its really not impressive, but u can feel the difference. id stick to the GSR intake mani though for the low end that u would lose if u switch to skunk2 until u have more major mods. i ran 14.5 w/ GSR motor, ITR cams, DC header, intake, exhaust and *** dynoed cam gears in my 99 EX coupe.
Yea. I'm planning to stick to my Stock IM for now. Don't want to lose too much Low End. I'll be saving up for a VAFC and some Skunk2 Cam Gears then.
they r only necessary when u raise the rev limit on the car. i wouldnt recommend it though. they r just a stiffer spring than stock GSR. revs kill motors and if they dont kill they prematurely wear out motors.
So if I'm not planning to Raise the Rev Limit, I don't need to waste money on Valve Springs? Well, my car won't let me rev pass 8400rpms anyway, so I guess I'll have no need for the Valve Springs then. LMK-
exactly, sounds like the stock tach is off also, should redline at 8200. my stock SI cluster is exactly 200RPMs off. my car redlines at 8700 but my tach is just short of 9k.
I had ITR cams in my GSR motor. 202whp with a stock GSR bottom end. Of course there was other mods, but you can see a dyno sheet at http://www.prospeed-performance.com (look under project vehicles, and the 4 door teg). A dyno sheet is listed there. ITR cams are a great start, with good tuning, and the right setup to go with it, you can make a lot of power.
BTW switching to an ITR trans does not give you more hp, to the person who posted above. It will however make your car faster in the 1/4 due to better gearing and LSD.
BTW switching to an ITR trans does not give you more hp, to the person who posted above. It will however make your car faster in the 1/4 due to better gearing and LSD.
Tuning is key and granted my dyno numbers seem low (see sig below), but for a 135k motor, it's not bad. I gained serious low end and mid range torque. I'd like to do S2 intake manifold also, but I am not investing any more into my GS-R. It's fast enough for me until my next vehicle. -crossing fingers- ..... S4 or early NSX.
Anywho, ITR/CTRs are worthless without VAFC and gears. I had no VAFC for almost 2 years and what a difference.
Anywho, ITR/CTRs are worthless without VAFC and gears. I had no VAFC for almost 2 years and what a difference.


