<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THugluv423 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really need some help from HT tonight. My gsr swap in my em1 has gone crazy. I drove my car on friday and it ran fine....then saturday night I decided to take it out and everytime I hit Vtec the car feelt like im hitting a rev limiter. It boggs and loses power. I have no idea what is going on....a couple things I did already have been to clean the vtec solenoid filter, I check my plugs...not sure why, I ran lucas fuel injection cleaner. I unpluged the vtec and the car feels like a weak ls motor. I have ran out of personal ideas. I need help from some guru's. I hoping some one has had some experience with this problem. Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have taken THugluv423's post because I just finished the wiring on my car and I have come across the same problem with my car and I did the swap into a 95 cx hb. My motor just had a total rebuild and motor is working like new. I have already changed out the fuel filter and all those other things. My injectors are flowing fine and nothing is wrong there. I put new copper NGK plugs in and filter is mildly dirty like normal.

From what THugluv423 has done, he changed out his cat and the problem went away. How would I go by evening knowing that it is the cat or the O2 sensor. I am using a stock cat from a gsr that I have purchased from a Hter which he used and just passed right before I bought it from him. The O2 sensor is the 4 wire sensor, which that is what my mechanic told me when he looked at it (would the car through a check engine light if it was bad) My car is not throwing a check engine light at all.

My mechanic told me that what the problem is my valve springs being to tight. He said when the motor is stock, the exhaust or intake side valve springs only have one valve spring rather then aftermarket coming with a stiffer dual valve spring. Could that even be a issue and has anyone had this problem happen to them before?

When I got my motor rebuilt, I drove out to CAMP1320 to purchase RM Gen 2 valvesprings and retainers which I personally bought from Tom there. Then I had the head and parts sent out to Alaniz Technologies for a SM service. He installed them for me and he gave me no problems with the RM parts and everything went well.

I dont know what to say because my mechanic told me about this same incident happening to another customer, some I am just bum'ed out and confused.

I apologize for the extremely long post but I hope I could get this resolved with the least amount of money. Thanks guys!

EDIT: Did not mention what I had for my setup, sorry.

Just had a fresh rebuild on the B18C1 motor.
Alaniz SM Port and Polish
Skunk2 stage 1 cams
RM Springs and retainers
Dc 4-1 carb legal
Copper NGK's plugs
NGK wires
Stock block
Stock ECU

I dont have my EVAP or IAB wired up, still working on that, but I would think that would have no effect but what do I know. Thanks guys!



Modified by Dang EG at 10:02 AM 3/6/2006

 

It sounds like your car is in safe mode which means when in VTEC it will not do anything you need to take it to a good honda Mech. let me know where you live and i will let you know of a place if i can....lata the Hump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Humpie56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It sounds like your car is in safe mode which means when in VTEC it will not do anything you need to take it to a good honda Mech. let me know where you live and i will let you know of a place if i can....lata the Hump</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is nothing wrong with it electronically. The mechanic that I have here that I go to is one of the best in So Cal. I would not take it to anyone else then him. I am just stumped with the fact that it is doing this.

Thanks though for the input


Modified by Dang EG at 11:41 PM 3/2/2006

 

its your dizzy

heres what you do, remove your cap and rotor you will see the little brown **** with 4 plugs, remove each plug one at a time and squeeze it tighter with pliers and apply dialetric grease. do that for all 4 plugs.

no need to thank me

 

why would it be that? what would make those ****'s be messed up and be a reason for my vtec and motor to bog?

 

up

 

If your dizzy is messed up it WILL make a difference. I had a B20/GSR with a bad dizzy (the rotor um....was very loose..don't ask...I still don't know how it happened) and my car was misfiring at 90 mph....it was scary. If you get in touch with Katman here on lovely HT he can point you in the direction to get the Helms PDF manual for you car...it has all the excellent trouble shooting stuff in there which I've used to great benefit.

 

You might be running rich. If you run too rich you will bog during vtec.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GTlvr82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your dizzy is messed up it WILL make a difference. I had a B20/GSR with a bad dizzy (the rotor um....was very loose..don't ask...I still don't know how it happened) and my car was misfiring at 90 mph....it was scary. If you get in touch with Katman here on lovely HT he can point you in the direction to get the Helms PDF manual for you car...it has all the excellent trouble shooting stuff in there which I've used to great benefit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What did you do to fix the problem for the dizzy? Did you just replace the cap and rotor and it was fixed or did you get a whole new dizzy all together? When I purchased the dizzy from a Hter and used it, it was working fine. I havent put much miles on it but I should change the cap and rotor anyways. I will try to get a hold of him for the trouble shooting stuff... Thanks alot for your help, great appreciate it!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blu3g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You might be running rich. If you run too rich you will bog during vtec.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I doubt that I am running rich because I have not tuned, changed or messed with anything fuel related. Could you further explain why it would be rich? Thanks though!

 

ttt

 

could anyone else have some insight for this problem that I have?

Is it because I do not have enough spark for my setup ?

Alaniz SM Port and Polish
RM valvesprings and retainers
Skunk2 stage 1 Cams

Would any of those upgrades have any effect with the bogging?

I appreciate any help I can get, Thanks!!

 

did you just add those things??

if so you should probably get tuned..

sorry if my response is worthless..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dang EG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could anyone else have some insight for this problem that I have?

Is it because I do not have enough spark for my setup ?

Alaniz SM Port and Polish
RM valvesprings and retainers
Skunk2 stage 1 Cams

Would any of those upgrades have any effect with the bogging?

I appreciate any help I can get, Thanks!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you didn't have this at the beginning of the message then okay, but if you did have this WHY DIDN'T YOU TELL SOMEONE?

Of coarse your car will act differently with P&P and a cams... Now get some fuel management and call it a day.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mwsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you didn't have this at the beginning of the message then okay, but if you did have this WHY DIDN'T YOU TELL SOMEONE?

Of coarse your car will act differently with P&P and a cams... Now get some fuel management and call it a day. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The skunk2 cams and the RM valve springs and retainers should do nothing to change to fuel. Yes, I see that the cams a more aggressive over stock but they are smog legal so no change of fuel should be needed.

The port and polish, maybe, but I see no reason why it would be needed and why it would not run normally with stock fuel and management.

You are very true, I should just get it tuned but I am trying to get it BAR'ed so tuning it out of the question for now.

Thanks for the insight ...

 

Been driving around in the car and noticed that the car after 5000 RPMs, it gets REAL sluggish and doesnt move any more. I hear the car revving but I stop accelerating because it sounds like the moto.r is going to blow.

Please, anyone have any clue for what I could do about this problem, thanks

 

Have you checked your fuel filter?

 

replaced it about 6k miles ago

 

Describe this bogging. Is it rapid like the rev limiter, a slow oscillation, or just a fall on the face loss of power with no odd sounds?

 

From idle to 3k feels good, power starts to give a little then at 5k, it hits like a wall.
It is really hard to past that point and the car struggles alot.. that is on partial throttle.
At full throttle, it feels like it gives out at 4500 rpm's...its very unusual. I really do not know what is it up with it..

 

What is your VTEC crossover point? If it is the stock 4400RPM, it may be too low for the cams you are running. Take a higher gear to about 50MPH and downshift into second (~6500 RPM after the shift). See if it accelerates then. Make sure the engine is warm.

There was another guy who has a similar problem. His muffler was full of water.

 

I will try it out after the rain stops tonight and do it in the morning sometime. I will report back to see what I have.

Yes, my computer is stock with the stock crossover point and etc.. Why did he have a muffler full of water? I remember my car at the mechanics and revving it alot, which happen to shoot out a large amount of water as well.

Thanks for the help and hopefully more in the future, thanks!

 

you know judging by the sound of the problem ur port job might b too much for the motor. y dont u try advancing ur ignintion a lil then see what happens...but to give u a lil info...if ur port job is too "large", means ur getting too much air...and ur motor doesnt have enough compression to handle that amount of air and fuel.

 

I had the street masters P&P done to it and he told me that it was not anything outrageous or anything. Thats what Joe Alaniz told me.

The issue is though, is that my car wont advance past like 5k. I would understand the car not getting power and still revving to redline but it does not at all..

Its tuesday morning so I am going to take the car out for some test drives to see I can do what dogginator said to try.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Ok my turn...

Here's my edumacated guess...

First off, you're running stage 1 Skunk cams. Have you made sure to follow the directions with these cams and use the proper valve lash/feeler gauge clearances? I'm not sure what they suggest for lash clearance for the stage 1 cams, but you might want take another gander at those specs. I use to have a set of buddyclub spec 3 cams, and when I first installed them and followed their valve lash suggestions, funny thing is my car would not rev past 3000rpm, but it would idle purfectly, it was the weirdest thing. They suggested to use .006 for intake and .008 for exhaust; I recalculated an used .010 for intake and .013 for exhaust and then my engine ran way better. A bit noisy on the valvetrain, but all worked well and the motor revved out fine once I change up the valve lash clearances.

A 2nd guess would be the ecu + IAB's.
As the other fella mentioned; being that you're running a stock ecu and stock GSR intake manfold with these SK2 cams, along with not having your IAB wired in could cause for bogging issues. 1) VTEC is more than likely kicking on too early (4400-4800rpm) for the SK2 cams to work properly and 2) your stock GSR intake manifold w/disabled IAB's isn't helping either. The IAB/secondarie butterflies are constantly open which is not good for low-end power when using a GSR intake manifold, they should be closed and gradually open up through-out teh powerband, and fully open up at around 5700 rpm. It's been dyno proven on a stock GSR engine that when the IAB's are disabled and left open all the time, you lose about 10ft lbs of torque, not to mention the it'll feel real boggy when VTEC pops on at 4400-4800rpm.

A remedy for secondaries would to either have the ecu reprogrammed or run a VTEC controller to move the VTEC crossover to about 5300-5500rpm, mind you, this is a suggestion when people run ITR/CTR cams in a stock GSR motor. I'm not sure where the sweet spot is for Sk2 stage 1 cams are though. Also, upgrading your intake manifold to that of a Skunk GSR intake or AEBS intake is HIGHLY suggested especially with the cam & head port upgrade you've just had. You need more air flow than a GSR intake manifold can provide and to delete those pesky secondaries butterflies.

Besides this info, check your ignition (dizzy) as the others have suggested. Just take a look under your cap and see if there's anything broken in there which may be the cause of your boggy issues.

What your mechanic said about the valvesprings is partially true, but sounds like half the story. All 92-01 B-series engines have dual valvesprings on the intake side, some of these B-motors (forget which ones) have singe v.springs on the exhaust cam side. This isnt bad or anything, its just that the exhaust cam isn't aggressive enough to need a dual valvespring on the exh. side of the head. There is such a thing as "coil binding" with some aftermarket springs though. What happens is the coils on the springs are slightly too thick and when the cam lobe compresses teh spring down all the way down during its revolution, depending on how radical the camshaft's lift profile is, it can compress the spring to its maximum point, a point to where the spring actually bottoms out (just like your suspension)because of coils being too thick not allowing the cam lobe to reach its maximum performance. THis happening overtime will wear flat spots into the cam lobes. This wont happen with stock springs and sk2 stage1 cams though. I'm not sure this is even happening to your motor (probably isn't). I just want to give you a little more insight into this than what your mechanic fed you.

Make sure you're wiring is good and that you've wired in VTEC correctly. Speaking of wiring, what did you use for an engine wire harness?

Make sure all your ground wires are in place (valve cover to radiator support, tranny ground, engine wire harness ground to thermostat housing)

PS: what transmission are you running?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is your VTEC crossover point? If it is the stock 4400RPM, it may be too low for the cams you are running. Take a higher gear to about 50MPH and downshift into second (~6500 RPM after the shift). See if it accelerates then. Make sure the engine is warm.

There was another guy who has a similar problem. His muffler was full of water.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I figured out that when I would rev to 5k or so, it would hesitate for a moment. I would stop accelerating because I thought I would be damaging my engine if I went further.

So, I tried what you suggested and this is what happened.
I let the car warm up and then took it out. I accelerated slowly to about 4500-5k and then shifted into 2nd gear. The car lost power like it did before but this time I kept my foot on the gas and the car revved to redline. There was no power though all the way through but at least I know now that I can still rev that far.

Thanks Katman for giving me some insight in what my issue's may be.

I am running the obd1 gsr harness. I checked and all my grounds are set in place. I will see from skunk2 how much valve lash I will need.

Does any of guys know an easier diagram and instructions for wiring up the IAB and the EVAP purge solenoid because it is not very straight forward for me. Also I am trying to have that stock wiring look to it so pointing out where the wires lead up to on the harness would help alot.

I appreciate all the help you guys have give, thanks. If I you guys find something else that could be my problem, please pass on to me.