in this thread i will discuss how to plumb your clutch line using AN fittings and a braided feed line. this will allow you to tuck/run the line anywhere you want it.


DISCLAIMER:
there's absolutely no performance benefit, it's purely for asthetics

stuff you need to know:
- the threads for the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder fittings is 10mmx1.0
- use steel fittings
- brake fluid eats paint. DO NOT GET BRAKE FLUID ON THE PAINT. if you spill any fluid during the install, clean it up IMMEDIATELY.
- don't use teflon tape for AN/flared connections. teflon tape is only need for "square" or thread only sealing.


PARTS LIST
everything you need can be had on summitracing.com. i HIGHLY recommend them!

(1) pair Male -3 AN to Male 10mm x 1.0 Earls Brake Adaptors ($11.99) EAR-592032ERL

NOTE: see the reverse flare on the 10mmx1.0 side, that is needed for a perfect seal


(2) steel -3 AN swivel hose ends - style is up to you (~$10 each)

note: on summit search for "-3 AN swivel hose end". AER-FBM1120 is a nice 90deg option. or, perhaps a 45deg is needed for your app, AER-FBM1110. there's even a 120deg bend.


(1) -3 AN braided hose 10ft length ($35) - AER-FCC0310

NOTE: of course, use whatever length is necessary for your application. 10ft is probably enough for most people, but figure out where you want to route the hose and get out the tape measure.

(1) DOT 3 brake fluid - any qty/brand should work

(1) buddy - to help bleed the clutch. or, get a vaccuum assist pump and figure out how to connect it to the clutch resevoir.


THE INSTALL

prep the braided line for install by installing hose ends and tightening. check this link for swivel seal end install instructions.
map out the install in the engine bay to make sure you understand exactly where things need to be placed

1. remove your OEM fittings and hard lines (10mm). use flare wrenches on the hard line fittings so you don't destroy them. be prepared to have something to catch the fluid that will leak out.
2. install the brake adaptor fittings on the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinders
3. install the braided line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder routing it whereever you want it
4. fill the resevoir with fluid and bleed the clutch just like you bleed brakes


Modified by DOHCvtecDX at 6:50 AM 8/11/2006


Modified by DOHCvtecDX at 6:50 AM 8/11/2006


Modified by DOHCvtecDX at 6:54 AM 8/11/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCvtecDX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


DISCLAIMER:
there's absolutely no performance benefit, it's purely for asthetics

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am happy you put this disclaimer.

Nice work,
Cheers.

 

does the braided line have any problems with expanding under extended use?

what was the total of all of this

 

no, definitely not. these hoses are rated to ~3000psi

total cost: ~$80

[edit] i removed a reference to brakes


Modified by DOHCvtecDX at 10:38 PM 3/7/2006

 

got any pics of this, im curious to how it looks. i may do it the next i rob a bank

 

no, not really. the idea behind doing this is that you don't see it.

 

how do you have it routed to the the slave cylinder. do you have it tied anywhere to the frame or any brakets or anything. i think this could be the ultimate in blinging your bay

 

most stay in the engine bay and have it run over the rear x-member to the back of the trans, under the starter to the cylinder in the front.

 

great how to thread i was thinking of doing this while doing my ABS removal i broke one of my clutch hard lines glad i found this article another question answered by the SEARCH option.

 

Cool man, but I have some comments. What pressure do you think those swivel seal fittings are rated for where they meet the hose? Do you think there is a reason that stainless braided brake lines are compression crimped and not twist / seal like what you did? What inside pressure does a stock brake line undergo? Just some thoughts I hope you considered.

 

Yo, blown90hatch, is that a FEA of a turbo assembly? (your avatar)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yo, blown90hatch, is that a FEA of a turbo assembly? (your avatar)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it is man.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What inside pressure does a stock brake line undergo? Just some thoughts I hope you considered. </TD></TR></TABLE>

who's talking brakes? this is a clutch hydraulic system. no where near what pressures the brakes see

there are fittings and hoses sold that are designed specifically for brake use. i removed the above reference to brakes. i'm not implying that anything shown here can or should be used for brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes it is man.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sexy. What do you do for a living? You seem almost engineeringish, or student engineeringihs by what you said and how you said it. Just a guess.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCvtecDX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

who's talking brakes? this is a clutch hydraulic system. no where near what pressures the brakes see

there are fittings and hoses sold that are designed specifically for brake use. i removed the above reference to brakes. i'm not implying that anything shown here can or should be used for brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE> I am not nocking you man, I just want to make sure people understand the pressures in the systems. For a clutch system, this shouldn't be an issue. The other guy made reference to an ABS system and all. The hose and fittings are rated accordingly, but the mating of the two may not be brake worthy.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sexy. What do you do for a living? You seem almost engineeringish, or student engineeringihs by what you said and how you said it. Just a guess.</TD></TR></TABLE>Mechanical engineer, aerospace structures/thermal. /End thread highjack and back to a good topic.

 

Ordered everything from Summit. I also ordered padded clamps to securely mount the line along the firewall and across the tranny.

 

Probably a stupid question, but what would happen if you use -4AN lines and fittings with -4AN to 10mm x 1 adapters? Would it work safely, or would the increase in size cause a failure somewhere? And yes, I know, theres no benifits in doing this, but I was just curious.

 

maybe a slight difference in pedal travel (reduced) as a larger line will move more fluid

 

well i made the line not much to realy see but it worx just fine





i only used 4 1/2 feet of the 10 foot junk and i have 2 of the AN to inverted flare fittings so im gunna make my friend a clutch line as well. if i did it again i would have only used 4 feet of line its a lil long but it worx awsome great write up thanx

 

good job on the writeup.

 

nice

 

Just ordered from Summitracing.com
EAR-592032ERL 1 @ 11.99
EAR-600103ERL 1 @ 5.25
AER-FBM1120 1 @ 9.88
AER-FCC0306 1 @ 31.95
Total 59.07
Handling charge 9.95
2nd day air 12.00 (in a hurry as always)
Grand total paid 81.02
I decided on a straight piece for the slave cylinder as I am keeping to the stock routing kinda.
Will take pictures when installing.

 

glad to see the thread going strong. i have not had a single leak or problem with my conversion

 

same here

 

What about if you just wanted to convert the section downstream of the rubber section? Is the fitting at that junction 10x1.0 too?