what rear strut tower bar are you using?
for suspension so far i have koni yellow/h&r oe springs, itr rear sway bar, neuspeed front strut tower bar/ 3 driving schools and 1 track event
thinking about getting a rear strut tower bar
http://www.diabloautosports.com/prod...a39c77fd9efa91
diablo has that, looks really cool, but im sure i could get something else as functional but cheaper
i would guess the imported itr rear strut bar is a good option how much is the cost on that?
what is everyone using if not either of the above?
thinking about getting a rear strut tower bar
http://www.diabloautosports.com/prod...a39c77fd9efa91
diablo has that, looks really cool, but im sure i could get something else as functional but cheaper
i would guess the imported itr rear strut bar is a good option how much is the cost on that?
what is everyone using if not either of the above?
i saw a cusco front bar just like that one in the link.. very nice piece.. it was on an ITR at some meet last year..
i'm using the neuspeed bar and honestly i don't notice a damn thing.. maybe i don't drive hard enough to notice it anyway.. i got it used for $120 so no biggie.. if you're all out of options and just want to finish up the suspension to be "complete" then by all means get one.. i've seen the JDM ITR bars on ebay for ~$145.. just try not to expect a big gain
when you're shopping for a rear bar, shoot for a solid piece, or at the very least, get one with 2 bolts securing the bar on each side.. the cheaper (ebay) ones will have only 1 bolt for each side.. it's probably not too big of a difference, but in theory the bars with 1 bolt will rotate at the joint as opposed to the others which will absorb the load
HTH
i'm using the neuspeed bar and honestly i don't notice a damn thing.. maybe i don't drive hard enough to notice it anyway.. i got it used for $120 so no biggie.. if you're all out of options and just want to finish up the suspension to be "complete" then by all means get one.. i've seen the JDM ITR bars on ebay for ~$145.. just try not to expect a big gain
when you're shopping for a rear bar, shoot for a solid piece, or at the very least, get one with 2 bolts securing the bar on each side.. the cheaper (ebay) ones will have only 1 bolt for each side.. it's probably not too big of a difference, but in theory the bars with 1 bolt will rotate at the joint as opposed to the others which will absorb the load
HTH
I have a neuspeed rear bar for sale in the classifieds.
Selling it to get a mugen bar for the back. I believe the stiffer the better and while the neuspeed is a very good strong, stiff bar, the mugen is even more so with it's solid design.
Selling it to get a mugen bar for the back. I believe the stiffer the better and while the neuspeed is a very good strong, stiff bar, the mugen is even more so with it's solid design.
JDM ITR rear upper bar
And can be bought at a good price if you find someone selling it! It made a noticable difference along with my ITR springs in my GSR.
Tom O
And can be bought at a good price if you find someone selling it! It made a noticable difference along with my ITR springs in my GSR.
Tom O
I'm using an OMP rear bar, very strong solid bar, with 2 bolt holes each end. I noticed a slight difference on hard cornering but nothing substantial. It only cost around $50. the only thing was it was yellow so i sprayed it silver before i put it on.
I use the Tanabe.
I adjusted it pretty tight pushing out. I felt an immediate difference, although my car is older so it's loosened up a bit.
I adjusted it pretty tight pushing out. I felt an immediate difference, although my car is older so it's loosened up a bit.
i have the spoon bars front and back, i drove it first with just the front and then put the back one on a few days later..... it's really noticalbe. i'm not pushing spoon for the sake of it being spoon, just buy a really stiff bar that has a good rep. you'll be happy you did
-Scary
-Scary
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I'm using a skunk2 bar that i really like. Its nice but you do have to cut the rear panels. I did notice an improvement. It is sort of the finishing touch, makes the whole back end feel solid.
how much does the spoon go for?
how is it better than the jdm itr rear tower bar?
am i just wasting money getting a rear strut tower bar?
will it cause any oversteer when driving at the limit?
how is it better than the jdm itr rear tower bar?
am i just wasting money getting a rear strut tower bar?
will it cause any oversteer when driving at the limit?
I have a SPOON bar but I think the Skunk2 bar is a bit more functional with the lower tower mounts..... and the same construction as the Spoon and the Skunk2 bar is much cheaper.
you will notice a diffeence so I suggest you get one, I would vote Skunk2.
you will notice a diffeence so I suggest you get one, I would vote Skunk2.
you can find some matrix bars...or some other cheap ones that do the job real well for about 20-30 bucks on e-bay thats if your trying to save money...if your not i would go mugen...
later,
Dan
later,
Dan
so on the skunk2, do you have to hack the plastic molding to make it fit?
do you have to do it on the spoon?
the benen piece looks like the only one that is one piece/non pivoting that does not require a hack job
do you have to do it on the spoon?
the benen piece looks like the only one that is one piece/non pivoting that does not require a hack job
Quote: will it cause any oversteer when driving at the limit? Quote
I did a 270 on the highway going 70 mph before I had mine in. I also swung my *** end around making a left through a yellow (not red) light I was trying to make.
Note: When I spun out on the highway, I wasn't racing or ******* around or anything. They had just sprayed de-icer on the road (which is way slicker than just water, kinda stupid if you ask me!). I was just on my way home from work and taking a curve that I have taken going 90 mph before, and all of the sudden.... WTF? Turn the wheel left, a little more, crank it, gone! I was so scared that my car was messed up that I called my dad in the middle of the night and made him drive my car home.
[Modified by Stu, 8:12 AM 4/1/2002]
[Modified by Stu, 8:13 AM 4/1/2002]
I did a 270 on the highway going 70 mph before I had mine in. I also swung my *** end around making a left through a yellow (not red) light I was trying to make.
Note: When I spun out on the highway, I wasn't racing or ******* around or anything. They had just sprayed de-icer on the road (which is way slicker than just water, kinda stupid if you ask me!). I was just on my way home from work and taking a curve that I have taken going 90 mph before, and all of the sudden.... WTF? Turn the wheel left, a little more, crank it, gone! I was so scared that my car was messed up that I called my dad in the middle of the night and made him drive my car home.
[Modified by Stu, 8:12 AM 4/1/2002]
[Modified by Stu, 8:13 AM 4/1/2002]
And for those of you who said you couldn't tell if it made the chasis any stiffer. My car has apparently (pretty goddamn apparent actually
) been in an accident. And the passenger window used to get stuck half way down and need help. After I put in the rear-upper strut tower brace, and the rear one that goes under the chasis, the window has never gotten stuck since.
[Modified by Stu, 8:17 AM 4/1/2002]
) been in an accident. And the passenger window used to get stuck half way down and need help. After I put in the rear-upper strut tower brace, and the rear one that goes under the chasis, the window has never gotten stuck since. [Modified by Stu, 8:17 AM 4/1/2002]




, but I might have to sell it, b/c I want something else, something OG