Ok let me break it down

B16a2
S21 Trans
ECU
Hasport shift linkage(shitty cond. hardly feel if your in gear, bad bushing)
Hasport mounts
Honda throttle cable
Axles
Honda timing belt/water pump
OBD0 harness to OBD1
Invidia test pipe (just a stainless pipe, no logo)

I had a local shop do this and it costed 4000 all together, and im wondering if I got screwed b/c of the price, and do invidia test pipes come w/o a logo? I have an S21 trans and I looked up a trans description sheet and it said the S21 is a USDM trans only, and I dont even know if im OBD1 (how do i check). But the thing is the stamp says B16a (JDM) but I have a usdm trans, wtf is up with that. my car was at their shop for a month and I just want to know how to find out they didnt just use my jdm head and trans, and swap it with one of their 00 Si's or something like that.



Modified by Stupid EF at 6:27 PM 3/1/2006

 

sounds like ta good price since labor is what cost the most

 

kinda confused did you buy the swap and all those parts yourself, then pay a shop 4 g's to install it?

 

No, I just brought my car there and they did everything else, motor is from hmo

 

$4k is a good price if you provided nothing then. A good condition b16 with mounts and axles and a linkage is $2200, labour, exhaust, misc ****

I would never dorp my **** at a shop becuase of this reason, do it yourself next time

 

You can tell if its an obd1 by looking at the ecu if you dont trust the block itself saying b16a2.



I got this image from http://www.Zdyne.com. Thanks to them.

Also, the motor, tranny, and ecu from hmotors is 1750, not including shipping. Add another 500 for the shipping and mounts. Then add about $150 for the other random parts. So the parts were like 2,400-2,500 ish. So $1,500 ain't crazy for a shop to charge on labor for a motor swap since they have overhead to cover and whatnot. Maybe next time take it to a local mechanic looking for extra cash.


Modified by Profiles of Victory at 6:51 PM 3/1/2006

 

if it says a2 that means its usdm, mine says just b16a, but im saying of the possibility they took my head and trans and exchanged it with a usdm 00 si or something.

And with the OBD part those are just ECUs, so can someone explain for me what to look for. I mean they put the ECU in that came with the b16, then after that they charged me for an OBD1 jumper harness, so wouldnt my ecu still look like 0BD0

 

check the o2 sensor(s). 1 4 wire o2=obd1

 

Ok so say you have an 88 crx, and 2nd gen b16 setup from HMO and you install everything, what do you need to make it OBD1, just a jumper harness, or do you have to change 02 sensors,ecu,etc (bc I thought that the 2nd gen is OBD1 already) and I dont see why he would have charged me for a jumper harness if everything was already OBD1 with the motor

 

Honestly, you can sit here and specualte about what a shop does to your car anytime you take it to one. Ever heard of silent motor swap recalls? Those have actually happened, customer takes a car in for random problem, and dealer changes entire motor from a recall list without ever telling the customer.

To awnser your questions, no you didn't get ripped on price, and no one is going to be able to tell you exactly what the shop did didn't do besides the workers. I would complain about the shifter if you believe they didn't install it correctly or used a bum part, but thats it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stupid EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok so say you have an 88 crx, and 2nd gen b16 setup from HMO and you install everything, what do you need to make it OBD1, just a jumper harness, or do you have to change 02 sensors,ecu,etc (bc I thought that the 2nd gen is OBD1 already) and I dont see why he would have charged me for a jumper harness if everything was already OBD1 with the motor</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because the harnesses come cut and destroyed 90% of the time from Hmotors, so they have to use yours and put the conversion harness on it to mate the obd1 ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Profiles of Victory &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Because the harnesses come cut and destroyed 90% of the time from Hmotors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no its because you need a harness that will convert your obd 0 wiring to plug in the obd 1 ecu

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pee Wee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no its because you need a harness that will convert your obd 0 wiring to plug in the obd 1 ecu</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what I just said dude. And if the motor came with a harness that wasn't cut you could use it itself.

 

Modified by Stupid EF at 6:25 PM 3/10/2006

 

Dude, those are your fuel injector wires. The o2 sensor is down on the exhaust manifold. I think I have answered all that I can for you.

Have a good one.

 

your o2 sensor is on the exhaust manifold. or you can look at the ecu under your carpet

 

and please buy some kind of intake

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pee Wee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and please buy some kind of intake </TD></TR></TABLE>

Its in the mail. The reason I ask so many questions, or want details on miniscual info is b/c thats how I learn, how and why things are there, and basically now I understand that they spliced the original wires with the new harness to make it OBD1 right ? ?


Modified by Stupid EF at 4:34 PM 3/2/2006

 

looks like an obd1 distributor......id say ids been converted. in my personal experience i could never repin a obd1 distibutor to work with an obd0 ecu.

 

not to be a dick but your mistake is that you should have done the swap yourself. now you are going to spend countless hours trying to find out what they did.

to answer you question, pull back you carpet on the passenger side. undo the brass plate. look for a code on the ecu. it should be 2 letters and a number LL#

also while your there look for the conversion harness. you'll see a bunch of wires plugged into another bunch of wires which is then plugged into your ecu.

PS $4000 for parts and labor is a good deal. if the car runs you should be happy

 

here is my question. why is the resistor box still there if you have obd1 injectors

 

The plug connection looks like gray so I'm sure you'ur running OBD1 because OBD0 are white connection.

 

your distributor is obd1 converted. as pee wee pointed out, you still have a injector resistor box, which means they might have used the old injectors from your old car with the new setup, or they used obd1 injectors and just wired the injectors to the ecu and bypassed the resistor box.. since you have an obd1 distributor, you probably have an obd1 ecu. if your block says b16a2, then your engine is either usdm 99-00 civic si, or came out of a 92-95 jdm civic sirII or a 93-95 jdm del-sol, all of which would be obd1, or obd2 only if you got the usdm engine. as for your trans, i have never heard of an s21 trans, so i might be missing something. maybe ys1? s1? either way i dont know how to tell for trans.. but it looks like you got what you paid for. so i would say dont worry about it anymore.

 

repinned the dizzy and the resistor box looks to be still hooked up. so your probably still obd1. tell us what ecu you are using

 

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