My First Ramhorn
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From: Houston, Texas, USA
My First Ramhorn
Let me know what you guys think
As you can see you now have the ability to actually put the manifold on, no more fighting getting a wrench in there, also the formed pieces at the flange are there to get a smoother transition between the oval port at the head and the round port of the tube, by doing this, our flow tests have had a 2% gain!
-James
As you can see you now have the ability to actually put the manifold on, no more fighting getting a wrench in there, also the formed pieces at the flange are there to get a smoother transition between the oval port at the head and the round port of the tube, by doing this, our flow tests have had a 2% gain!
-James
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Houston, Texas, USA
Re: My First Ramhorn (OH ISH ITS DAT FOOL JAMES)
Thanks man
Yeah I had to put on a "name censored" ram horn manifold for my friend the other day ago and it was a pita, it took over an hour just tightening up all the nuts on the head!
I figured when I build mine I would help out you guys that have had to go through the same trauma that I had to, not only does it make it much easier putting on the flange, it gets to show off my logo
, improve airflow, and above all, you shouldn't have to hack up the ps bracket any more.
-James
Yeah I had to put on a "name censored" ram horn manifold for my friend the other day ago and it was a pita, it took over an hour just tightening up all the nuts on the head!
I figured when I build mine I would help out you guys that have had to go through the same trauma that I had to, not only does it make it much easier putting on the flange, it gets to show off my logo
, improve airflow, and above all, you shouldn't have to hack up the ps bracket any more.-James
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From: Houston, Texas, USA
Re: My First Ramhorn (ccivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seems like it would sit the turbo very low.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those pictures dont really show it but the flange is only gonna be 2" lower than the bottom of the head flange, in other words, it will be almost in the same location of every other ram horn.
-James
Those pictures dont really show it but the flange is only gonna be 2" lower than the bottom of the head flange, in other words, it will be almost in the same location of every other ram horn.
-James
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Houston, Texas, USA
Re: (EKhatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I call bullshit, far to nice to be your first one. 
J/K man, looks damn good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope it is my first ramhorn, I have had alot of practice with welding to make it that nice and this is the result of measure 4x cut once
Yah I wanted this manifold to be perfect right off the bat, didn't want to redo anything and it came out just like that.
PS:
For all those still waiting on your orders
this customer had waited over 2 months for this and I still have to finish the manifold, do downpipe, and dumptube, as yall can see good things come to those who wait...
-James
J/K man, looks damn good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Nope it is my first ramhorn, I have had alot of practice with welding to make it that nice
and this is the result of measure 4x cut once Yah I wanted this manifold to be perfect right off the bat, didn't want to redo anything and it came out just like that.
PS:
For all those still waiting on your orders
this customer had waited over 2 months for this and I still have to finish the manifold, do downpipe, and dumptube, as yall can see good things come to those who wait...
-James
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,933
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From: northern, ma, US
Re: (JG-Fabrications)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JG-Fabrications »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
PS:
For all those still waiting on your orders
this customer had waited over 2 months for this and I still have to finish the manifold, do downpipe, and dumptube, as yall can see good things come to those who wait...
-James</TD></TR></TABLE>
heh 2 months is nothing nowadays trying to get quality parts fast...keep up the good work mani looks beautiful!
PS:
For all those still waiting on your orders
this customer had waited over 2 months for this and I still have to finish the manifold, do downpipe, and dumptube, as yall can see good things come to those who wait...
-James</TD></TR></TABLE>
heh 2 months is nothing nowadays trying to get quality parts fast...keep up the good work mani looks beautiful!
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From: Houston, Texas, USA
Re: (nitroice40)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nitroice40 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That looks awsome! I have to ask one question. What is the trick to weld in the middle above the collector? It looks soo tight!</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is a slip fit collector you don't have to weld up there, I chose to weld the collector on because I didn't feel like paying extra for fancy tabs and bolts and nuts.
The reason you here of many tube manifolds cracking is
#1 SSAC/OBX uses 20 gauge tube, the wall thickness on the outside the bend is like .025!
#2 SSAC/OBX does not purge weld, they fusion weld (weld without filler rod) and don't get full penetration
#3 SSAC/OBX manifolds are crome plated, in the process of crome plating the material is slightly heat treated and becomes very brittle
#4 SSAC/OBX manifolds use **** poor braces that will flex under load, if the brace flex's so does the manifold thus the cracking occurs....
Yes it is 16 gauge tubing and I have had zero issues with it, one customer (booja, white turbo accord) Has had his setup for a little over a year now with zero issues, all you have to do is properly brace the turbo and know how to weld and there are no problems, don't believe me ask tony1
-James
Modified by JG-Fabrications at 9:59 PM 3/1/2006
Modified by JG-Fabrications at 10:00 PM 3/1/2006
Modified by JG-Fabrications at 10:00 PM 3/1/2006
Modified by JG-Fabrications at 9:35 AM 3/2/2006
It is a slip fit collector you don't have to weld up there, I chose to weld the collector on because I didn't feel like paying extra for fancy tabs and bolts and nuts.
The reason you here of many tube manifolds cracking is
#1 SSAC/OBX uses 20 gauge tube, the wall thickness on the outside the bend is like .025!
#2 SSAC/OBX does not purge weld, they fusion weld (weld without filler rod) and don't get full penetration
#3 SSAC/OBX manifolds are crome plated, in the process of crome plating the material is slightly heat treated and becomes very brittle
#4 SSAC/OBX manifolds use **** poor braces that will flex under load, if the brace flex's so does the manifold thus the cracking occurs....
Yes it is 16 gauge tubing and I have had zero issues with it, one customer (booja, white turbo accord) Has had his setup for a little over a year now with zero issues, all you have to do is properly brace the turbo and know how to weld and there are no problems, don't believe me ask tony1
-James
Modified by JG-Fabrications at 9:59 PM 3/1/2006
Modified by JG-Fabrications at 10:00 PM 3/1/2006
Modified by JG-Fabrications at 10:00 PM 3/1/2006
Modified by JG-Fabrications at 9:35 AM 3/2/2006
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From: Houston, Texas, USA
Re: (95civicgsr)
$850 shipped is what I am trying to sell it for right now, as you can see there are extremely expensive materials used in building this manifold so I wont be able to drop price much (I dont try and sell $250 worth of material for xxxx prices....)
-James
-James
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 277
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From: Where Soccer Moms Rule the Streets, ca
i was plaing around with designing a ramhorn in solidworks and i can get almost equal lenth runners by having the outter ports on the head actually connect to the far outside runners in the front. is there a downside to designing it that way? cause every ramhorn i see has the runners going to the same ports as yours.