The tires are 'okay', I think they were driven while under-inflated, I will give them a thorough look, but I believe the sidewalls are fine, and the tread is probably 30-50% However, to me the most important things on a car are tires and brakes. It doesn't matter if the car can't go anywhere, but you *need* to be able to stop and control your vehicle.

So, what should I do? One of the tires has a little bend to it I think, nothing major if it's anything. I would want 'mid-level' tires. Something safe, economical for the most part, and rated up to 120mph at least. All season tires are fine, I have snows for my daily driver, and we probably won't have snow for a while.

Are there benefits of new wheels, vs. just tires? I have a tire place that can put the new tires on the existing wheels. However, if new wheels for the sake of knowing they are 100% in shape is worth it, that's okay. They look original (Wheels) with 177k on them.

All suggestions welcome.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phoenix_iii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So, what should I do? One of the tires has a little bend to it I think, nothing major if it's anything. I would want 'mid-level' tires. Something safe, economical for the most part, and rated up to 120mph at least. All season tires are fine, I have snows for my daily driver, and we probably won't have snow for a while.

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It is not safe nor economical to be doing 120mph.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are there benefits of new wheels, vs. just tires? I have a tire place that can put the new tires on the existing wheels. However, if new wheels for the sake of knowing they are 100% in shape is worth it, that's okay. They look original (Wheels) with 177k on them.
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Every place will put new tires on old rims. Unless the rims are damaged and unsafe.

Now from the sound of what you said you have old tires with some tread and at least on damaged steelie. You could try to have that rim bent back straight but it will cost more than the cost of a new 13" steel rim. So what you can do is go to a junk yard and purchase a used 13" steel rim that is straight to replace the bent one. Should be fairly cheap. Tires are the bigger concern. If your tires and old and don't have much tread left it might jsut be best to get new ones, you will probably have to shortly anyways.


You want some 13" tires for a 1990 crx. The proper size is 175/70/13. The advantage of this size is everything you will buy will be pretty cheap, the downside is that there is not many 13" tires available. You also want an all season as you will occasionally see some snow. You also want somethign economical yet safe. s

Summary:
175/70/13
All season
Mid price.

Mr. NSXTASY should be able to help you from here. He may also have further imput into your rim situation.

Cheers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phoenix_iii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to me the most important things on a car are tires and brakes. It doesn't matter if the car can't go anywhere, but you *need* to be able to stop and control your vehicle.</TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phoenix_iii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One of the tires has a little bend to it I think, nothing major if it's anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wheel, or tire? If it's a wheel, you can live with it if the tire is holding air and there's no vibration. If it's a tire, what do you mean by a "bend"?

If you need to replace the wheel, it shouldn't be too hard to find a new one, either on the h-t classifieds, or on eBay, etc. It's probably not worth spending the money to get repaired.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phoenix_iii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would want 'mid-level' tires. Something safe, economical for the most part, and rated up to 120mph at least. All season tires are fine, I have snows for my daily driver, and we probably won't have snow for a while.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have winter tires on another vehicle, and you don't need to drive this car in bad winter weather, then you can get away with "summer tires". Summer tires perform much better than all-seasons in moderate to warm temperatures. All-seasons, of course, are much better than summer tires on snow and in frigid cold. And all-seasons usually last a lot longer.

As for specific tire recommendations for your 13" wheels, the Tire Rack has a grand total of one summer tire in your 175/70-13 size: the Sumitomo HTR 200 for $35. They have a bunch of different all-seasons, the best of which is the Yokohama AVID T4 for $41.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phoenix_iii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are there benefits of new wheels, vs. just tires? I have a tire place that can put the new tires on the existing wheels. However, if new wheels for the sake of knowing they are 100% in shape is worth it, that's okay. They look original (Wheels) with 177k on them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The biggest benefit of new wheels (aside from looks, which is, err... obvious ) is that larger wheels have a much greater selection of tires, as neri noted. There are almost no decent performance street tires in 13" sizes these days. If you get, say, 15" wheels, there are many, many tires to choose from.

 

Thank you gents so much.

To clarify, I did mean wheel when I say a little bend. I just topped off the air when I picked them up (they were all off, one down into the teens of PSI). Put them at 31.5 in the front and 30 in the back, found it should be 32 all the way around. Will drive a little more (done 10 miles since fill) and check the air and see what's what.

Okay, bigger wheels = more selection (not only of wheels, but of tires).

Downside? Will I need some sort of spacer? What about the tire hitting the wheel well on a speed bump? I've heard of people putting 17'' tires on CRX's, and then reading that it is bad for fuel economy/looks silly/is not good.

Being March 1st, I won't be enduring frigid cold for long, so summers is an option, but I don't want to be screwed in rain or cold... I guess as long as I KNOW what tires I have on I can drive slow enough/leave enough space/defensively to compensate.

I normally just do the speed limit, stay in the right lane, etc. but it's nice to have the 'potential' do get up to higher speeds.

If I can get answers to those questions that would be great. I will be going to the salvage yard Thursday or Friday, so I'll see what I see. Doesn't matter if the wheel doesn't match, does it (besides my pride)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phoenix_iii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thank you gents so much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you are welcome

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
To clarify, I did mean wheel when I say a little bend. I just topped off the air when I picked them up (they were all off, one down into the teens of PSI). Put them at 31.5 in the front and 30 in the back, found it should be 32 all the way around. Will drive a little more (done 10 miles since fill) and check the air and see what's what.
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Follow the inflation numbers on your door jam and make sure to check when the tires are cold, not after driving. Get a little pencil meter or digital ones, I wouldn't trust the ones at gas stations.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Okay, bigger wheels = more selection (not only of wheels, but of tires).

Downside? Will I need some sort of spacer? What about the tire hitting the wheel well on a speed bump? I've heard of people putting 17'' tires on CRX's, and then reading that it is bad for fuel economy/looks silly/is not good.
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No spacers needed, no hitting fo wheel during speedbump. By "bigger wheel" we mean larger rim diameter however the overall diamter of the tire will remain the same (+/- 2%). The width will probably increase to 185mm if you get 14" wheels and probably 195mm if you get 15" wheels. You currently most likely have a width of 175mm.

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Being March 1st, I won't be enduring frigid cold for long, so summers is an option, but I don't want to be screwed in rain or cold... I guess as long as I KNOW what tires I have on I can drive slow enough/leave enough space/defensively to compensate.
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No, don't do that. If you are going to drive in winter conditions don't try it with summer tires. No matter how good of a driver you think you are. It doesn't matter how much space, how defensive, or whatever else you do. What about that idiot that is goign to do something stupid in front of you? Not worth it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I normally just do the speed limit, stay in the right lane, etc. but it's nice to have the 'potential' do get up to higher speeds.
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Most tires you get will be rated well enough for your needs. Probably at least 112 MPH. tire rack has a page that explains what the numbers and speed ratings mean.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If I can get answers to those questions that would be great. I will be going to the salvage yard Thursday or Friday, so I'll see what I see. Doesn't matter if the wheel doesn't match, does it (besides my pride)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes the wheel has to match. Not colour but style, shape, weight...etc. Not doing this will throw the balance of your vehicle out of wake. However most steel rims are identical.


Cheers.

 

10-4 on filling/reading cold tires (less than 1mile of travel).

Have a good airstation and a separate digital reader, been doing air inflation on my daily driver for a while and keeping it correct.

I didn't realize that although the wheel may be bigger (14'', 15''), that the overall diameter doesn't really change. Good to know/the more you know. ; )

That's true regarding some bad driver cutting off/requiring you to move in less than ideal conditions, I'll stick with all seasons and get a separate SET of tires if I feel the need to get summer specific.

And regarding weight... duh, silly me, I've seen the tire guys hammer on little oz weights, so if that little bit keeps it balanced, having two separate wheels will makes things *Really* out of whack.

I'll double check the 175/70-13 size on the current tires to make sure (unless it is obvious based on what I said). Thanks for even looking up at Tire Rack. I've heard good things (mostly) about TR so I think I will shop there if going new. Is there anything I should know about rim design? Is it all eye candy, or should I care about aluminum vs. steel vs. ? Besides weight reduction, would one better for x/y/durability? All the info I absorb here I can and do share when others post their questions, so don't think it's a waste on me because I'm new! Thanks again

Ben

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phoenix_iii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">10-4 on filling/reading cold tires (less than 1mile of travel).
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Best just to check it in the morning before driving at all. But less than 1 mile shouldn't matter too much, depends how **** you wish to get.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's true regarding some bad driver cutting off/requiring you to move in less than ideal conditions, I'll stick with all seasons and get a separate SET of tires if I feel the need to get summer specific.
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Best to make the decision now. It's either summer and winter tires or just all-seasons. Running summers and then all seaons in the winter is kind of a waste.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And regarding weight... duh, silly me, I've seen the tire guys hammer on little oz weights, so if that little bit keeps it balanced, having two separate wheels will makes things *Really* out of whack.
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Those little weights are for balance of the individual wheel. I was talking about over all balance of the car. I am not too sure what running different weight rims on different sides would do, I could forsee torque steer as being one thing. I don't know what else. The car would most likely act a bit "funny" and maybe some uneven tire wear. You can run say two different style steel rims if they are mounted in pairs front and back and you have the same tires on them. I don't forsee problems with that. Some one correct me if I am wrong.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Is there anything I should know about rim design? Is it all eye candy, or should I care about aluminum vs. steel vs. ? Besides weight reduction, would one better for x/y/durability? All the info I absorb here I can and do share when others post their questions, so don't think it's a waste on me because I'm new! Thanks again

Ben</TD></TR></TABLE>

If this is for a daily driving grocery getter and you don't care what it looks like just get steelies. They are good and cheap. Weight reduction will help a bit with steering feel, and shave a few hundreds or tenths off your 1/4 mile. Again, if it's for a daily driver who cares. As for the rest it is for looks. It's a personality thing. It also get's expensive. You can but used steel rims for next to nothing. Brand new aluminium rims are very expensive in some cases.

If it helps right now I have 20 yr old 13" aluminium rims for the summer and 14" used steel rims for the winter. The 13" for the summer because I like the looks and the 14" in the winter because it is much easier to find 14" used winter tires than any other size in my case.

This is a very personal choice. "your car, your money"

 

Thanks for the great advice (I'm pretty specific too and would rather do pressures cold). I'll look at tire rack and see how 13 and 14'' tires compare price/availability.

 

Mr Nsxtasy should be available to give you some really good advice on which tire is best for you if you tell him your exact needs (budget, weather, expected life). Also look at the price of steel rims at tire rack if you really do want new ones.

You may wish to also look at 15" I think those are the most available tires, more than 13 and 14"

Cheers.

 

Just to add a couple things to the excellent advice old man neri has been giving you...

Since you found that one tire had a lot lower pressure than the others, keep a close eye on the pressures. It's quite possible that that tire had a slow leak in it, possibly due to a puncture. If you still know which one it is, you might want to take a close look at the tread, to see if you can locate a nail or screw. But sometimes the head wears off and you can't see it; if not, check the pressures frequently, and if you find one of them losing air regularly, get it checked (and repaired).

If you get 14" wheels, get 185/60-14 size tires. If you get 15" wheels, get 195/50-15 tires.

 

Well, after spending some time at tirerack and seeing that new wheels (tires and rims) are going to cost about $600 shipped... I think I'll pick through the yards instead. Is there anything I should be careful of when doing so? I'll see what's on the junked CRX's, and other Honda Civics/Accords/HBs of similar era, right? As long as the bolt pattern matches I'm good, and the tire size is what has been recommended and they all match, I am good to go, right? If I find a good set with one with some damage I will bring it somewhere and have it pressed out. Good plan?

 

Chances are at a junkyard they have removed all the good rims and have them stored aside, at least that is how it is at my local place. You have to match 1) diameter, 2) bolt patter, 3) width, 4) offset.

If you look at the FAQ for this forum it will explain what all that is. It should also be stamped on side of the rim. Also make sure the rims look the same. That should ensure proper equal wieght.

Don't but a damaged used rim and plan on haveing it "pressed out" That will cost you a lot to have it proffesionally done. Besides, I thought that was the problem with your current rims.

Give the local classifieds in your newspaper a once over. You might also find some steelies there.

 

I found a good deal (I think) and picked up 89 Si Rims (with dead/bald tires on them). They are 14'' rims, and the tires (I only checked one, assume they would only fit one) is 195/60-R14. I know this is not the ideal 185/60-14 I was quoted below. I picked up all four rims for $50, good? They are in good shape, a little bit of clear coat flaking off but good and straight.

I am going to go look on tire-rack for the best rated, reviewed, etc. Can anyone recommend anything different due to this different size? I will go read and see what the #s specifically recommend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phoenix_iii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I found a good deal (I think) and picked up 89 Si Rims (with dead/bald tires on them). They are 14'' rims, and the tires (I only checked one, assume they would only fit one) is 195/60-R14. I know this is not the ideal 185/60-14 I was quoted below. I picked up all four rims for $50, good? They are in good shape, a little bit of clear coat flaking off but good and straight.

I am going to go look on tire-rack for the best rated, reviewed, etc. Can anyone recommend anything different due to this different size? I will go read and see what the #s specifically recommend. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That sounds like a pretty good deal. 4 rims for $50. I would stick with 185/60-14 which is the recommended size for your car. The rims did come with 195s but like you said the tires are "dead". So get new tires but in the correct size. With a light car like yours 185s will work better in snow and rain anyways.

As for what tires to get. You have to decide if this thing will ever see snow. That will determine if you get all-season or summer tires. All season tires are a compromise tires. Not the best for hot summer days and not the best for the **** winter weather. However they do work. Also I gather you aren't into performance and track racing are you?

 

This car will not see performance or track racing. Another CRX... maybe.

The worst I am going to do is some hard cornering on dry, clean days with no other cars nearby. I also barely take her above 60mph.

Well, now that I have the 14's, I wonder if I should keep the 13'' steelies and put snows on 13s in the winter. How does a CRX fair in the winter with decent snows? It's light, but fwd and front heavy... should I put the snows on the 14's? Get a pair of 15s as well and ditch the 13's?

So I can fit 185/60-14 on there? Haven't got the #s yet, reading all the tiretech on tirerack re: markings.

** Edit just read and it was not specific if I can fit 185 on there as well as 195, 195 being on there already. Can anyone confirm?

Also, tires are expensive... and the ones I have on the 13s have plenty of tread on them, so I may just use them as is through the summer, and then put snows on the 14s... not sure, much to think about.


Modified by phoenix_iii at 8:08 AM 3/12/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phoenix_iii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This car will not see performance or track racing. Another CRX... maybe.

The worst I am going to do is some hard cornering on dry, clean days with no other cars nearby. I also barely take her above 60mph.

Well, now that I have the 14's, I wonder if I should keep the 13'' steelies and put snows on 13s in the winter. How does a CRX fair in the winter with decent snows? It's light, but fwd and front heavy... should I put the snows on the 14's? Get a pair of 15s as well and ditch the 13's?
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I though the whole purpose was that you couldn't use the 13" rims. I thought one was bent. You will not find a lot of 13" snow tires. I think tire rack has 2 and I don't know how good they are. If you are careful and take your time on those days it does snow (I don't know what the weather is like in Phili.) all seasons would probably suit you as you are more interested in saving money rather then getting all the performance out of your car.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So I can fit 185/60-14 on there? Haven't got the #s yet, reading all the tiretech on tirerack re: markings.

** Edit just read and it was not specific if I can fit 185 on there as well as 195, 195 being on there already. Can anyone confirm?

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Okay, for every tire made the manufacturer specifies a range of "approved rim widths". I think most 185s are around 5"-6.5". Now you have to find out how wide your rims are. It will be stamped on there "14X5" or 14X5.5" or something similar. The "14" is the diameter" the other number is the width. I am 95% sure you will be fine to put on 185s on those rims.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, tires are expensive... and the ones I have on the 13s have plenty of tread on them, so I may just use them as is through the summer, and then put snows on the 14s... not sure, much to think about.
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Yes, tires are expensive. Everything about a car is expensive. Again, I thought you said your 13"s were bent and were not usable. If you throw winters on your new 14s then come next fall expect to shell out more cash. In the long run you are not spending more money cause 2 sets of tires should last you about twice as long. Just more money up front. There is only summer tire available in 13". The Sumi HTR 200. I don't know how much better it is than all seasons. I currently have this tire, I have no problem with it but Nsxtasy describes it as a "crappy summer tire" He has more experiance about different tires. It will be interesting to see if he has any thoughts on this.

Cheers.

 

The 13's are fine. I've tested the air and they are not leaking, and my mechanic friend said it was only cosmetic (slight bend in outer lip/not contacting tire). I wasn't sure if it was more severe. Again, holds air fine.

My car needs an alignment, pulls to the right a little. If I get it aligned with the 13'' steelies on it, do I have to realign when I put on new tires, or does the alignment adjust the camber/toe/mounts, and the tire doesn't matter as long as it's straight? I think that's the case, just want to make sure.

p3

(I started a WTB thread in the marketplace to see what people had in the 14s if there was a good deal floating around (maybe on snows since it's the end of the season).

The steelies have some PepBoys Futura 2000's on them I believe, which are a generic all season.

 

Alignment should be fine for either 13s or 14s.

The pepboys futura 2000s are probably pretty crappy, I am sure they were cheap.

If you are looking for used snow tires I recommend looking also at your classifieds. Make sure that if you buy some used that there is plenty of tread left. Normal tires work fine down to 2/32" tread left. Winter tires won't work worth a damn with that much thread. I wouldn't get any if they have been used for more than one season.