d16z6 head on a d16y8 block on a EK??
i have a d16y8 block and wanting to buy a d16z6 head, how much horsepower will i run without turbo? and do people commonly do this to their EK alot? thanks
It will perform roughly the same.
However the Z6 is more top end oriented, and the Y8 more toward the bottom end. You will notice that Z6 head can handle revs better too. Stock Z6 heads can rev past 9, whereas Y8 heads float valves by 7400.
However the Z6 is more top end oriented, and the Y8 more toward the bottom end. You will notice that Z6 head can handle revs better too. Stock Z6 heads can rev past 9, whereas Y8 heads float valves by 7400.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekVtecPower »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a d16y8 block and wanting to buy a d16z6 head, how much horsepower will i run without turbo? and do people commonly do this to their EK alot? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
your better off with just using a y8 head b/c the z6 head only accepts the z6 distributor, therefore its just a big headache for you....plus the y8 would be better for you because the head flows better, the cam is better, and the compression would be higher....there wouldnt be much of a gain though....now z6 block with y8 head and accessories, its a different story....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Better Than You »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will perform roughly the same.
However the Z6 is more top end oriented, and the Y8 more toward the bottom end. You will notice that Z6 head can handle revs better too. Stock Z6 heads can rev past 9, whereas Y8 heads float valves by 7400. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you got it messed up, the y8 has more topend then the z6....z6 feels better in the low end but the y8 has better topend due to a better manifold, cam, and higher compression....
back to the original post, if you want better power all around, keep the stock y7 block, get the y8 tranny and head, do a minime swap and you got yourself a pretty good single cam.
a buddy of mine has this set up in a 99 civic coupe, with i-h-e-testpipe and obd1 conversion running on a chipped p28 on chrome and dynoes 131 hp and 125lb torque....strong enough to almost beat my 00si...
your better off with just using a y8 head b/c the z6 head only accepts the z6 distributor, therefore its just a big headache for you....plus the y8 would be better for you because the head flows better, the cam is better, and the compression would be higher....there wouldnt be much of a gain though....now z6 block with y8 head and accessories, its a different story....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Better Than You »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will perform roughly the same.
However the Z6 is more top end oriented, and the Y8 more toward the bottom end. You will notice that Z6 head can handle revs better too. Stock Z6 heads can rev past 9, whereas Y8 heads float valves by 7400. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you got it messed up, the y8 has more topend then the z6....z6 feels better in the low end but the y8 has better topend due to a better manifold, cam, and higher compression....
back to the original post, if you want better power all around, keep the stock y7 block, get the y8 tranny and head, do a minime swap and you got yourself a pretty good single cam.
a buddy of mine has this set up in a 99 civic coupe, with i-h-e-testpipe and obd1 conversion running on a chipped p28 on chrome and dynoes 131 hp and 125lb torque....strong enough to almost beat my 00si...
go to d series.org. They have a direct comparison. The Y8 cam and IM IS better for top end, but the actual HEAD is designed to promote low end. Port size/flow/and shape on the Z6 is geared for tope end power. It's also the reason that the Y8 redline is 6800 and the Z6 is 7200.
If i mini-me'd my hatch a Z6 head would go on it.
If i mini-me'd my hatch a Z6 head would go on it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slow_import »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a buddy of mine has this set up in a 99 civic coupe, with i-h-e-testpipe and obd1 conversion running on a chipped p28 on chrome and dynoes 131 hp and 125lb torque....strong enough to almost beat my 00si...</TD></TR></TABLE>
that should beat the EM1, if he was a good driver he should be able to beat you every time
that should beat the EM1, if he was a good driver he should be able to beat you every time
so you guys think i should be able to race my friends ls/vtec? or would it not be a close one, because he has a ls block with a gsr head and tranny. and i dont really know how fast you can make a d16y8, i researched it alot but couldnt come up with some good searches. help plz thanks!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slow_import »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
a buddy of mine has this set up in a 99 civic coupe, with i-h-e-testpipe and obd1 conversion running on a chipped p28 on chrome and dynoes 131 hp and 125lb torque....strong enough to almost beat my 00si...</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's a ridiculous amount of torque, a bit unbelievable
a buddy of mine has this set up in a 99 civic coupe, with i-h-e-testpipe and obd1 conversion running on a chipped p28 on chrome and dynoes 131 hp and 125lb torque....strong enough to almost beat my 00si...</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's a ridiculous amount of torque, a bit unbelievable
he pulls me through 3rd by about 1/2 a car then i pull back and barely beat him right before fourth, when we downshiftat like 40 he pulls till about 70, then i pull back him at my bumper, if we downshift at between 55-65 he beats me (cant enter 2nd) due to his torque he pulls and i cant pull him back, but if we downshift at above 65 were neck to neck for a couple seconds then i pull him like normal....if it was in a hatch, i'm sure he will beat me....i think as if he could but he cant drive worth shiet....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wazup »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that's a ridiculous amount of torque, a bit unbelievable </TD></TR></TABLE>
you do kno non-vtec sohcs dyno with more hp than torque....
check this link if you dont believe me this is of a d15, remember the y7's are 1.6 http://www.importtuner.com/pow...elsol/
heres one of a 1.6 sohc crx
http://www.importtuner.com/pow....html
and heres a 98 ex dyno
http://www.importtuner.com/pow....html
its possible to get that much power and torque from a single cam
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wazup »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that's a ridiculous amount of torque, a bit unbelievable </TD></TR></TABLE>
you do kno non-vtec sohcs dyno with more hp than torque....
check this link if you dont believe me this is of a d15, remember the y7's are 1.6 http://www.importtuner.com/pow...elsol/
heres one of a 1.6 sohc crx
http://www.importtuner.com/pow....html
and heres a 98 ex dyno
http://www.importtuner.com/pow....html
its possible to get that much power and torque from a single cam
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekVtecPower »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you guys think i should be able to race my friends ls/vtec? or would it not be a close one, because he has a ls block with a gsr head and tranny. and i dont really know how fast you can make a d16y8, i researched it alot but couldnt come up with some good searches. help plz thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Any decent ls/vtec setup will murder even the more heavily modified sohc setups out there, when your talking n/a.
Any decent ls/vtec setup will murder even the more heavily modified sohc setups out there, when your talking n/a.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Better Than You »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will perform roughly the same.
However the Z6 is more top end oriented, and the Y8 more toward the bottom end. You will notice that Z6 head can handle revs better too. Stock Z6 heads can rev past 9, whereas Y8 heads float valves by 7400. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What makes this blind comment interesting is that the Z6 and the Y8 share the same valves and valvesprings. You yourself even said the Y8 cam is "better" in terms of lift and duration, so why would the Z6 head rev so much higher? Simple answer, it won't. Even more obvious answer, it will not hold up at 9k either.
However the Z6 is more top end oriented, and the Y8 more toward the bottom end. You will notice that Z6 head can handle revs better too. Stock Z6 heads can rev past 9, whereas Y8 heads float valves by 7400. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What makes this blind comment interesting is that the Z6 and the Y8 share the same valves and valvesprings. You yourself even said the Y8 cam is "better" in terms of lift and duration, so why would the Z6 head rev so much higher? Simple answer, it won't. Even more obvious answer, it will not hold up at 9k either.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOjdmHERE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are your oppinions on a d15 block with y8 head and i/h?? any ideas on power or potential??</TD></TR></TABLE>
D15 rods and crank are weaker. I would say with this in mind, the power potential will be greatly decreased. Lets face it, even the D16 still has toothpicks for stock rods.
D15 rods and crank are weaker. I would say with this in mind, the power potential will be greatly decreased. Lets face it, even the D16 still has toothpicks for stock rods.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOjdmHERE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are your oppinions on a d15 block with y8 head and i/h?? any ideas on power or potential??</TD></TR></TABLE>
hp and torque would be anywhere between 110-120 depending on your motors conditions...the thing that will make the most difference is the tuning b/c stock fuel maps are too lean and timing is different
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Better Than You »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will perform roughly the same.
However the Z6 is more top end oriented, and the Y8 more toward the bottom end. You will notice that Z6 head can handle revs better too. Stock Z6 heads can rev past 9, whereas Y8 heads float valves by 7400. </TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry but i will love to see any single cam with stock internal try to go above 7500 rpm and not shoot a rod or bend a valve...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Better Than You »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to d series.org. They have a direct comparison. The Y8 cam and IM IS better for top end, but the actual HEAD is designed to promote low end. Port size/flow/and shape on the Z6 is geared for tope end power. It's also the reason that the Y8 redline is 6800 and the Z6 is 7200.
If i mini-me'd my hatch a Z6 head would go on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
first off, give a y8 a p28 ecu and i'm sure it could pull up to 7200 rpm too but why do that when it stop making power in the at 6700 rpm...
hp and torque would be anywhere between 110-120 depending on your motors conditions...the thing that will make the most difference is the tuning b/c stock fuel maps are too lean and timing is different
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Better Than You »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will perform roughly the same.
However the Z6 is more top end oriented, and the Y8 more toward the bottom end. You will notice that Z6 head can handle revs better too. Stock Z6 heads can rev past 9, whereas Y8 heads float valves by 7400. </TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry but i will love to see any single cam with stock internal try to go above 7500 rpm and not shoot a rod or bend a valve...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Better Than You »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to d series.org. They have a direct comparison. The Y8 cam and IM IS better for top end, but the actual HEAD is designed to promote low end. Port size/flow/and shape on the Z6 is geared for tope end power. It's also the reason that the Y8 redline is 6800 and the Z6 is 7200.
If i mini-me'd my hatch a Z6 head would go on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
first off, give a y8 a p28 ecu and i'm sure it could pull up to 7200 rpm too but why do that when it stop making power in the at 6700 rpm...
i went to 7800 rpm in my stock z6 before i put in the new cam, springs, and retainers.
ohh and nothing bad happened
ohh and nothing bad happened
cam springs and retainers would make a lil difference on the rpms dont you think!!!
7800
whats the furthers you have taken it after those mods!
7800
whats the furthers you have taken it after those mods!
i've gone to 10k for ***** and giggles, I know i dont make power that high (cam is good till 8k) but i just wanted to do it, mind you i dont have a stock block either
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i went to 7800 rpm in my stock z6 before i put in the new cam, springs, and retainers.
ohh and nothing bad happened</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, one time wont hurt, but keep doing it and see what happens....and how much faster did reving to 7800 rpm, a car that peaks at 6700 rpm will not do anything but start losing more power as your rpms keep rising...
ohh and nothing bad happened</TD></TR></TABLE>yea, one time wont hurt, but keep doing it and see what happens....and how much faster did reving to 7800 rpm, a car that peaks at 6700 rpm will not do anything but start losing more power as your rpms keep rising...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slow_import »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yea, one time wont hurt, but keep doing it and see what happens....and how much faster did reving to 7800 rpm, a car that peaks at 6700 rpm will not do anything but start losing more power as your rpms keep rising...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i took it too 7800 all the time w/o a problem, as for making power, making peak hp at 6700 kinda changes when you have a turbo attached to it
.
yea, one time wont hurt, but keep doing it and see what happens....and how much faster did reving to 7800 rpm, a car that peaks at 6700 rpm will not do anything but start losing more power as your rpms keep rising...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i took it too 7800 all the time w/o a problem, as for making power, making peak hp at 6700 kinda changes when you have a turbo attached to it
.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What makes this blind comment interesting is that the Z6 and the Y8 share the same valves and valvesprings. You yourself even said the Y8 cam is "better" in terms of lift and duration, so why would the Z6 head rev so much higher? Simple answer, it won't. Even more obvious answer, it will not hold up at 9k either.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Z6 = tumble ports, Y8 = swirl ports.
I didn't want to have to search, but.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d-series.org »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Re: Z6 vs Y8 Ok friends, here is a little comparison of the Y8 and Z6 head.
*****See pictures below.******


[img]https://www.hadamotorsport.com/Y8IntakePort.JPG[img]

As you can see from the pictures above, there are a few significant differences between the Y8 and Z6 head, the most important being the different shaped combustion chambers and the different shape and length of the intake port dividers.
The loss of horsepower ZEXman saw with the Y8 head is a result of the curved intake divider, which is designed to create better low velocity air swirl and improved fuel economy. But as ZEXman points out, it does cause a loss of high rpm horsepower on heavily developed naturally aspirated or forced induction engines like his. However, the divider can be straightened out very easily with basic porting tools, which is exactly what I've done on my Y8 head. I will post pictures of this once I get the head back from the shop (I'm having a 3 angle valve job done). Point being, this design limitation of the Y8 head can be corrected, or at least so the story goes. I have yet to actually test this idea, but Moose and I will be flow benching our heads -- his is a ported Z6 and mine is a ported Y8. We did the port jobs ourselves so they are very similar and we'll flow bench them at the same shop so the results are comparable. Should be interesting to see how things turn out! If my Y8 head performs as well as Moose's Z6 head both on the flow bench, at the dyno, and at the race track, we'll have some pretty strong evidence that the Y8 head divider issue is easily addressed. And of course the higher compression Y8 head, due to the squared off combustion chamber design with larger quench pads, is a clear advantage if you're looking to raise compression easily and safely.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So, I'm right.
And lastly 9K won't happen? I had 2 D16Z6's in my EJ1 before I swapped a B16A into it. This is from when I had Z6 and a USDM cluster(swapped to JDM EG6)



Looks close 9K to me. The maximum I ever saw was 9100 on that Z6. Matter of fact, I never even did that to the B16 that I installed later.
What makes this blind comment interesting is that the Z6 and the Y8 share the same valves and valvesprings. You yourself even said the Y8 cam is "better" in terms of lift and duration, so why would the Z6 head rev so much higher? Simple answer, it won't. Even more obvious answer, it will not hold up at 9k either.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Z6 = tumble ports, Y8 = swirl ports.
I didn't want to have to search, but.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d-series.org »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Re: Z6 vs Y8 Ok friends, here is a little comparison of the Y8 and Z6 head.
*****See pictures below.******
[img]https://www.hadamotorsport.com/Y8IntakePort.JPG[img]
As you can see from the pictures above, there are a few significant differences between the Y8 and Z6 head, the most important being the different shaped combustion chambers and the different shape and length of the intake port dividers.
The loss of horsepower ZEXman saw with the Y8 head is a result of the curved intake divider, which is designed to create better low velocity air swirl and improved fuel economy. But as ZEXman points out, it does cause a loss of high rpm horsepower on heavily developed naturally aspirated or forced induction engines like his. However, the divider can be straightened out very easily with basic porting tools, which is exactly what I've done on my Y8 head. I will post pictures of this once I get the head back from the shop (I'm having a 3 angle valve job done). Point being, this design limitation of the Y8 head can be corrected, or at least so the story goes. I have yet to actually test this idea, but Moose and I will be flow benching our heads -- his is a ported Z6 and mine is a ported Y8. We did the port jobs ourselves so they are very similar and we'll flow bench them at the same shop so the results are comparable. Should be interesting to see how things turn out! If my Y8 head performs as well as Moose's Z6 head both on the flow bench, at the dyno, and at the race track, we'll have some pretty strong evidence that the Y8 head divider issue is easily addressed. And of course the higher compression Y8 head, due to the squared off combustion chamber design with larger quench pads, is a clear advantage if you're looking to raise compression easily and safely.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So, I'm right.
And lastly 9K won't happen? I had 2 D16Z6's in my EJ1 before I swapped a B16A into it. This is from when I had Z6 and a USDM cluster(swapped to JDM EG6)



Looks close 9K to me. The maximum I ever saw was 9100 on that Z6. Matter of fact, I never even did that to the B16 that I installed later.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Better Than You »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Z6 = tumble ports, Y8 = swirl ports.
I didn't want to have to search, but.....
So, I'm right.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You THINK you are right. I never argued about the design and casting of the head, did I? Get your "facts" that are based of some joe blows pictures and "theroys" straight first.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Better Than You »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And lastly 9K won't happen? I had 2 D16Z6's in my EJ1 before I swapped a B16A into it. This is from when I had Z6 and a USDM cluster(swapped to JDM EG6)Looks close 9K to me. The maximum I ever saw was 9100 on that Z6. Matter of fact, I never even did that to the B16 that I installed later.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
1). Its a stock B16A ECU I assume? They are limited to 8,200rpms
2). Its a STOCK TACH which we all know is off by approx 300rpms up top
3). Its more like 8,500 on the tach which is a mere 8,200rpms
4). If you had an ounce of brains, you would see I didn't write that it could NOT be done. I did say it wasn't going to last however.
5). Revving the car in neutral (no load) proves nothing.
Z6 = tumble ports, Y8 = swirl ports.
I didn't want to have to search, but.....
So, I'm right.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You THINK you are right. I never argued about the design and casting of the head, did I? Get your "facts" that are based of some joe blows pictures and "theroys" straight first.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Better Than You »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And lastly 9K won't happen? I had 2 D16Z6's in my EJ1 before I swapped a B16A into it. This is from when I had Z6 and a USDM cluster(swapped to JDM EG6)Looks close 9K to me. The maximum I ever saw was 9100 on that Z6. Matter of fact, I never even did that to the B16 that I installed later.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
1). Its a stock B16A ECU I assume? They are limited to 8,200rpms
2). Its a STOCK TACH which we all know is off by approx 300rpms up top
3). Its more like 8,500 on the tach which is a mere 8,200rpms
4). If you had an ounce of brains, you would see I didn't write that it could NOT be done. I did say it wasn't going to last however.
5). Revving the car in neutral (no load) proves nothing.



