I have a stock B16a in my 90 CRX Si. I want to get it as fast as possibe without doing any internal motor work for now. I went to the track last friday and here are my results:

r/t .262
60' 2.424
330 6.411
1/8 9.643
mph 76.28
1000 12.403
1/4 14.747
mph 96.09

Heres my current setup:
90 CRX Si
JDM B16a
Y1 w/ LSD
AEM Short ram
AEBS Intake manifold
DC 4-2-1 header
R&D thermal full exhaust w/ magnaflow cat
B&M short shifter
Stock 14" rim wrapped in 60% DUnlop SP sports @ 26psi
NGK plugs @ .44
9.3mm wires
new dist
new fuel filter
stock management
untuned
No weight reduction

I know I need to improve my 60ft times, that will come with more practice, It was my first time at the track with that car, 3rd time overall. Im going to do some wieght reduction including: sunroof plug, no spare tire, no pass. seat, lighter wheels, and maybe a few other small things. I was thinking about getting traction bars and lenso drag wheels with a nice DOT drag radial. Maybe Ill get a decen header too, mine is all dented up. So pretty much Im asking with my setup plus traction bars/tires, wieght reduction, new header, what do you think I should be able to do? What else would Improve my time besides more practice?

 

anyone?

 

High 13s... I did a 13.87 with 22" slicks, you should be able to do very similar times with drag radials. I was only pulling 1.9-2.0 60' times, achievable with radials for sure. You need to chip it and get some more RPM out of it... start shifting at 8500, no point in going higher than 8800, power *really* drops off there.

 

I thought reving past 8200 on a stock b16 was pointless because you stop making power after 7600?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SimplyTron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought reving past 8200 on a stock b16 was pointless because you stop making power after 7600? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I'd not take the stock head past 8200.

I did 13.90's w/ a stock 1st gen B16a in a full weight 89' SI hatch.

Open 4-1 header, M/T 20x8's, and GSR YS1 trans. I was cutting low 1.7 60's.

Phil

 

I went 14.2 with a stock 1st gen b16 in a 94 hatch si i/h/e and azenis.cant realy explain it it was just fast or maybe the driving had something to do with it

 

That time is really good, especially for how weak the 60' is. Your B16 runs strong.

Daniel Trimnal had a completely gutted, no dashboard or anything, 90 DX hatch with a bone stock 92 LS swap and an eGay Speshul header. He turned pretty consistent 13.6's , saw a couple 1.9 60' and best 1/8th was 8.85, all on street tires. You've got a bit better gearing going on, what do you think you can do?

If you aren't worried about tire life, try a set of M&H drag radials. Unlike BFG/Goodyear/Nitto, they do not use streetcar rubber, they use the #703 that is found on a number of their slicks. Now, smallest they have it in is 205/60R13, and it's 22.8" tall which might be a hair much for you... but unlike the BFG stupid tires most people seem to like they will actually hook. It even looks like a wrinkle wall, sorta, although I think it has some minimal sidewall: http://www.mandhtires.com/prod...3.wmv

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SimplyTron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought reving past 8200 on a stock b16 was pointless because you stop making power after 7600? </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is why dyno charts are gay. They spread misconceptions like this.

You make more power *at the wheels* because you stay in the shorter gear, longer! You make less power *at the flywheel* but who cares about that, I don't know about you but I don't race flywheels. If you want to know when you *actually* should shift, look at both the dyno chart and the hp chart. When power multiplied by the gear ratio falls lower than the power multiplied by the next gear ratio, THEN you should shift. Effective torque is different than torque measured on your dyno chart.

If your head's in good shape you have no problems to 8800 rpms and beyond. I've done it many, many, many times, as have lots of others on this board that don't post much anymore. I'm on the same B16 head with no rebuilds, ever, and I've owned it since '00. As I said I don't recommend taking it to 9k, because you make so little power there it's more advantageous to shift, just letting you know chances are it's not going to grenade - just be prepared to do a lot of valve adjustments I've found optimal on these engines to be somewhere around 8500 rpm.

 

There's also the Hyundaidata reflash for the EP3 that netted zero power gains up top, but dropped a full second off 0-60 times, by bumping up the revlimiter to where power was falling off. Sure it's not making *peak* power anymore, but it's still okay power, and when you shift you don't drop down into a no power rpm.

Sorry, meant to say that last night, raene, but I've been sick and muzzy-headed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlownHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went 14.2 with a stock 1st gen b16 in a 94 hatch si i/h/e and azenis.cant realy explain it it was just fast or maybe the driving had something to do with it </TD></TR></TABLE>

It was probably just fast. Don't flatter yourself Tommy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your head's in good shape you have no problems to 8800 rpms and beyond. I've done it many, many, many times, as have lots of others on this board that don't post much anymore. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My old white car when it was all motor I would shift pretty high. It had a chipped p28 with a 9k limit that would get used quite often at the track Stock motor with I/H/E ran 13.9 on nittos

 

I have an ebay chip laying around here somewhere with a 8500 rev limiter. Should I put that in? Im running stock shocks and H&R lower springs, my shocks are starting to go bad so I was going to get an adjustable shock so I can adjust them for street/strip. I was thinking about tokico illuminas becuase they were reasonably priced. Would these be fine? You want the susp. stiff at the track right?

 

14.3 @97 for me with ebay intake jdm type r header and cat back on street tires

 

i went 13.8 @95mph w 1.8 60's
[92eg si w/a 280lbs drive ]
22x8x13 mh slicks
b16a w/ctr pistion
ctr cams /aem gears
and skunk 2 mani w/jg tb(65mm i think)
itr jdm header

motor made 174 and 115 lbs on a dynojet

 

ok today I went 15.1 @ 88 mph. 92 si eg with 205/50 zr15s dulop sp 9000 street tires. 2.2 60ft. spear,tools etc removed. Do you guys think I can see an improvement with the rear seats removed?
I can also get my hands on some toyo ra1s but I'm wondering if Iwould see ne improvement sice they are 205/55/14s.

just a note I use to run 15.1s @90 mph with the same type of tire almost completely worn. Is it because they were worn thats why I was trapping higher mph?
Any suggestions?

 

13.7 is our best but i think we can go lower with somemore suspension work. the first pass today we went 13.7 at 99 mph but weve been 13.9 on 13 vx's with shitty tire and 103 mph and this is with a stock b-16 with only type r cam and no valtrain it actually makes 192 to the wheels and 127 trq. we could sure use a b-16 though!