crx b-series swap 4-1 header
with a b-series swap in a crx.. do you have to notch out the crossmember or get an aftermarked one with a 4-1 header?
how about a 4-2-1 header?
if you dont need to notch it how much clearance will there be?
i ask because im going b-series soon i have a d15b vtec with a dnx (p.o.s.) 4-1 header and there is little to no clearance
how about a 4-2-1 header?
if you dont need to notch it how much clearance will there be?
i ask because im going b-series soon i have a d15b vtec with a dnx (p.o.s.) 4-1 header and there is little to no clearance
yes you have to notch it severely, at least an inch has to be removed, some aftermarket crossmembers will fit a 4-1, usually 4-2-1 's fit fine, you will need a 2pc header unless you want to take off the front crossmember to install a 1pc
You can notch the stock crossmember just a lil bit but I wouldnt recomend it. I Have a DC 4-1 header as well with the stock crossmember the header wont clear it. So just today I went and picked up Innovative crossmember with bushings and the EG radiator all for $340 from JPRmotor. PasswordJdm.com carries these crossmembers as well. I would recomend buying a aftermarket crossmember instead of notching your stock one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.6 DOHC ED9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can notch the stock crossmember just a lil bit but I wouldnt recomend it. I Have a DC 4-1 header as well with the stock crossmember the header wont clear it. So just today I went and picked up Innovative crossmember with bushings and the EG radiator all for $340 from JPRmotor. PasswordJdm.com carries these crossmembers as well. I would recomend buying a aftermarket crossmember instead of notching your stock one.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would not notch your stock one very much, the more you notch it the more it has a chance of twisting/ or breaking. while your ripping it
. the innovative traction bar setup is pretty sweet, it looks sweet and frees up alot of space. and helps your traciton, also like 1.6 said, you have to use the eg radiator, i wouldnt reccamend getting the package tho, just go to autozone or something and it has a lifetime warenty and its only 56 dollars or sumttin. the traction bars ran me about 210 with bushings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>i would not notch your stock one very much, the more you notch it the more it has a chance of twisting/ or breaking. while your ripping it
. the innovative traction bar setup is pretty sweet, it looks sweet and frees up alot of space. and helps your traciton, also like 1.6 said, you have to use the eg radiator, i wouldnt reccamend getting the package tho, just go to autozone or something and it has a lifetime warenty and its only 56 dollars or sumttin. the traction bars ran me about 210 with bushings.
Yeah, Ill post some pics after I install the crossmember today with the Eg radiator.
Autozone has crosssmembers? I never knew that. $210 with bushings? That is one good deal.
Autozone has crosssmembers? I never knew that. $210 with bushings? That is one good deal.
thank you i guess im sticking 4-2-1
the nuts inside the frame is sripped out on the one side so i got 1 bolt holding it up right now
and it dont even tighten all the way
the nuts inside the frame is sripped out on the one side so i got 1 bolt holding it up right now
and it dont even tighten all the way
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.6 DOHC ED9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, Ill post some pics after I install the crossmember today with the Eg radiator.
Autozone has crosssmembers? I never knew that. $210 with bushings? That is one good deal.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ha yea rite, no autozone radiatior sorry if i didnt clerify, but i got the crossmember from a shop around here, factory five motoring,in my sig.
PasswordJDM also sells a bracket for the radiatior to hold it back in the right place so it dont hit the hood
Autozone has crosssmembers? I never knew that. $210 with bushings? That is one good deal.
</TD></TR></TABLE>ha yea rite, no autozone radiatior sorry if i didnt clerify, but i got the crossmember from a shop around here, factory five motoring,in my sig.
PasswordJDM also sells a bracket for the radiatior to hold it back in the right place so it dont hit the hood
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si0385. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you i guess im sticking 4-2-1
the nuts inside the frame is sripped out on the one side so i got 1 bolt holding it up right now
and it dont even tighten all the way
</TD></TR></TABLE>
re tap them, thats not safe at all....... if that falls and you loos your radius rods you wont steer, it happoned to me
the nuts inside the frame is sripped out on the one side so i got 1 bolt holding it up right now
and it dont even tighten all the way
</TD></TR></TABLE>
re tap them, thats not safe at all....... if that falls and you loos your radius rods you wont steer, it happoned to me
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91whiteZCrex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
PasswordJDM also sells a bracket for the radiatior to hold it back in the right place so it dont hit the hood</TD></TR></TABLE>
No wonder my damn hood wouldn't close
here are some pics.

I love the clearance between the header and the crossmember. Oh dont mind that header, DC 4-1 will be replacing that soon enough.

Red circled one is my stock radiator support, it had to be cut out by a hack saw to make room for the Eg radiator. The white circles is where the EG sits.



Tow hook
PasswordJDM also sells a bracket for the radiatior to hold it back in the right place so it dont hit the hood</TD></TR></TABLE>
No wonder my damn hood wouldn't close
here are some pics. 
I love the clearance between the header and the crossmember. Oh dont mind that header, DC 4-1 will be replacing that soon enough.

Red circled one is my stock radiator support, it had to be cut out by a hack saw to make room for the Eg radiator. The white circles is where the EG sits.



Tow hook
I have one from place racing, and love it, same design as the one above except it's rectangle tubing. I believe place racing has been out of buisness for a few years now, but loved their parts when the made them for the crx. Plenty of room for my DC 4-1 header and any future turbo manifolds. Definately get an aftermarket front crossmember if you can afford it, makes life that much easier and reduses wheel hop/traction.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91whiteZCrex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wish we could still use the full radiator, i like it better
</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2. I think you can still use the stock full radiator, but it wont site correctly and you would have to use lots of Zip Ties just to hold it in p
lace
</TD></TR></TABLE>X2. I think you can still use the stock full radiator, but it wont site correctly and you would have to use lots of Zip Ties just to hold it in p
lace
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.6 DOHC ED9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
X2. I think you can still use the stock full radiator, but it wont site correctly and you would have to use lots of Zip Ties just to hold it in p
lace </TD></TR></TABLE>
yea my buddie uses his full one and holds it in with the stock brackets with a but piece of radiator hose under it lol and i cant talk **** cuz his car is faster
X2. I think you can still use the stock full radiator, but it wont site correctly and you would have to use lots of Zip Ties just to hold it in p
lace </TD></TR></TABLE>yea my buddie uses his full one and holds it in with the stock brackets with a but piece of radiator hose under it lol and i cant talk **** cuz his car is faster
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




