to make a long story short. I barely have any brakes. I press the pedal and about an inch or two from the end is where i get some kind of stopping. The pedal just sinks to the floor. Ive replaced the mc last june and i just did it two days ago but it did not help. I also added stainless steel brake lines and bled every corner of the car but im still brakeless. Is it the power brake booster or proportioning valve?

 

i would tell you to rebleed the line but I am sure you did it. I would of sayed the MC but I am thinking it might be the brake booster not sure.

Dave

 

it cant be the brake booster (your pedal would be stiff as hell and you would never stop,it would take forever)
the only thing i can think of is to check the lines and make sure they are tight if there tight and not leaking and your not getting any air out the bleeder i would say replace the master cyclinder

 

did you replace your slave too? when i was doing my tune up i replaced the master and slave along with bleeding the brakes

 

this is the second master cylinder, i had a simliar problem before and i replaced it then which fixed it. I replaced it again now since i had it under warranty but no luck. Ill try rebleeding it again and ill check the slave. thanks guys

 

btw, the brakes stopped working before i put the ss lines in. it happened out of nowhere, i parked the car and maybe an hour later i get in and no brakes.
also im pretty sure there is no slve cylinder in the brakes system, correct me if im wrong.

 

oh and at idle if i press on the brake pedal my rpm's go up, thats y im thinking booster.
all help greatly appreciated

 

it's normal for RPM to increase when pressing the brake.

Is the pedal spongy, or does it just sink right to the floor and then work? If so, maybe the pushrod going to the MC needs to be adjusted? Maybe? Not 100% but sounds right.
Also, did you bleed the **** out of the brakes? I mean you gotta try to use brake fluid of a different color, and pump that pedal until the new stuff comes out. Or take it to a brake place and they have some vaccume **** that can do all that without spitting fluid all over the driveway.
B

 

Please tell me you didnt buy a remanufactured MC. THey expletive up really quickly.

 

its a reman from murrays. $40 and it did the job the first time. Could that be it?

 

Rman suck because they sandblast or beadblasy the cylinder and this causes pits. This eventually eats up the seal and blamo no pressure.

 

yeah if all the lines are tight and leak free chances are its the reman. master cylinder. sometimes i will get 3 or 4 bad ones before i get one good one, oh, thats on one car <--- not mine, i work at a brake shop.

 

any idea if i can put a booster and mc from '02 rsx-s onto my del sol?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any idea if i can put a booster and mc from '02 rsx-s onto my del sol?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I doubt it highly, but you could tell by looking at it if it would physically work, not sure how the action would be though.
B

 

Check all the lines carfuly for leaks. I bet its from the steal brake lines. look good inside their clear coating. If theres liquid go back to OEM!

 

^this happened before the stainless steel lines were installed.

 

if your pedal is going to the floor after you bled all the corners then you might have forgotten to bench bleed the master before installing. What you do is take it off or leave it on its easier when its out. fill it up with fluid and with your fingers over the holes pump slowly with a socket extension untill you get fluid coming out. If you dont bench bleed it you will never get all the air out. with that installed on the car you can now bleed the brakes. Start in the back passenger corner and work your way to the one closest to the master cylinder. The easier way to bleed is called gravity bleeding but it requires all four wheels off the car. Simply loosen all the bleeder screws and just sit back and smoke a ciggeratte untill you see fluid coming out one drop per second out of all the screws. make sure not to let the master run dry. hope this helps you out.

 

sounds like an internal leak in the master cylinder. you could rebuild it... not hard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99CivicSiBrian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I doubt it highly, but you could tell by looking at it if it would physically work, not sure how the action would be though.
B</TD></TR></TABLE>

why would you want to. just stick with what you got, its a good master cylinder size. if you feel like you want a firmer pedal then get a gsr one. something that doesnt have abs.

 

so you do have brake fluid under plastic on the steel lines? you should stop right there and put OEM ones in before you wast any more time or money.

 

look if you arent getting fluid on the ground then you arent leaking.the stainless ones you got are fine as long as they dont leak. if you arent leaking from the calipers and arent leaking from a line somewhere then its because you have air in your lines, or the master cylinder has a bad seal around one of the pistons. if you havent tried to bench bleed your master, i suggest doing that, if its not that then get on your back and look at all the lines, every joint, every line out of the combination vavle and then take your drums off and look to see if your wheel cylinders are leaking, what you are describing is air in the lines or a leak somewhere. if you have a leak you will notice moisture not a drip or anything like that, just moisture around it.

 

im gonna try to bench bleed it, its something i didnt do. But the first time i replaced it i never bench bled it either and everything worked fine for over a year now. thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im gonna try to bench bleed it, its something i didnt do. But the first time i replaced it i never bench bled it either and everything worked fine for over a year now. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

since you are doing that make sure to get all the air out of the lines. gravity bleed, its sooooo easy and its a one man job.

 

bench bleeding is no better than not doing it at all. it just makes the bleeding procedure quicker. how is the pressure at the wheels when you are bleeding??? does it shoot fluid out very well, or just kind of trickle out. if it just trickles out then you got a bypassing master cylinder.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bench bleeding is no better than not doing it at all. it just makes the bleeding procedure quicker. how is the pressure at the wheels when you are bleeding??? does it shoot fluid out very well, or just kind of trickle out. if it just trickles out then you got a bypassing master cylinder.</TD></TR></TABLE>

EXPLAIN THAT PLEASE!!!!!!

Im haveing the same problem with just my front driver caliper... it sorta streams out while the other 3 calipers squirt out hardcore.

Im goin through the same thing as the OP and have tryed everything... replaced everything....