I'm really pissed... 16MPG and I cant find the problem.
About three months ago my car started getting really bad gas mileage, and I mean horrid, it’s getting 16mpg. I'm getting so sick of this piece of **** because I've replaced almost everything and it’s brought me no where. Ignition wires, spark plugs, cap and rotor, fuel filter, oil, oil filter, and ran some sea foam through the fuel. So I came to the conclusion that it must be something making it run extremely rich. I looked it over and came up with it being the o2 sensor, because it would easily cause bad economy. So I bought one from a friend for 10 bucks, which is used off an ITR motor but is still in great condition, and replaced mine which turned out was bad. So I think it fixed it right, wrong, still getting horrid economy. The only other things I could see giving me bad economy like this would be a malfunctioning EGR unit, or a clogged cat. I don’t know though, I guess they could cause my problem. But if you think about it, a malfunctioning EGR should make your engine run like **** right? It could be my god damn cat, but who the hell knows...
btw the car doesnt have any vacuum leaks, and the compression test is even all across the bored. One thing I noticed is there isnt any vacuum going to the EGR even when reved up. Pinched line perhaps?
btw the car doesnt have any vacuum leaks, and the compression test is even all across the bored. One thing I noticed is there isnt any vacuum going to the EGR even when reved up. Pinched line perhaps?
check and change your thermostat if needed, it may be stuck open.
keep it under 3K when shifting.
keep it under 3K when shifting.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check and change your thermostat if needed, it may be stuck open.
keep it under 3K when shifting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My coolent temp stays normal, and it operates just like it should. I shift at 2-2.5k.
keep it under 3K when shifting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My coolent temp stays normal, and it operates just like it should. I shift at 2-2.5k.
my guage stayed normal too. I found out that it was my t-stat because car would not lock up in 4th gear
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my guage stayed normal too. I found out that it was my t-stat because car would not lock up in 4th gear</TD></TR></TABLE>
?? Not lock up in 4th??
?? Not lock up in 4th??
I would also check the Engine Coolant Temp sensor. If it is bad the ECU would stay in default as if the engine never warmed up and would run overly rich. This would also prevent the EGR from having vacuum available.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would also check the Engine Coolant Temp sensor. If it is bad the ECU would stay in default as if the engine never warmed up and would run overly rich. This would also prevent the EGR from having vacuum available.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's a good idea, where is it located? My password to Ondemand5.com got reset so I cant log on and find the bitch.
That's a good idea, where is it located? My password to Ondemand5.com got reset so I cant log on and find the bitch.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It should be under the distributor .</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh yes, it uses a one pin connecter if I remember correctly, right?
Oh yes, it uses a one pin connecter if I remember correctly, right?
I thought it was a two. I know that with the key on engine off you should get 5 volts at the pigtail. With the engine cold, resistance should be 2200 to 2700 ohms. With the engine warm it should be 280 to 350 ohms.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are 3 right in the same area. The front one is a fan switch. The back one is the ECT.</TD></TR></TABLE>
alright thanks for everything man.
alright thanks for everything man.
Get a vaccum pump and apply a few pumps of vaccum to the egr valve with the car running. If it runs like crap or dies the valve is good.
The ECT definately is a possibility. Go through the steps that were listed above.
The PCV valve will make your car smoke if it's bad. But an easy way to check it is to pinch the hose with a pair of needle nose pliers with the engine running. If you hear a "click" it's good.
If that doesn't work check your distributor timing.
The ECT definately is a possibility. Go through the steps that were listed above.
The PCV valve will make your car smoke if it's bad. But an easy way to check it is to pinch the hose with a pair of needle nose pliers with the engine running. If you hear a "click" it's good.
If that doesn't work check your distributor timing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a vaccum pump and apply a few pumps of vaccum to the egr valve with the car running. If it runs like crap or dies the valve is good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>If it doesn't stumble the valve could still be good but the ports are clogged, especially on this age car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>If it doesn't stumble the valve could still be good but the ports are clogged, especially on this age car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a vaccum pump and apply a few pumps of vaccum to the egr valve with the car running. If it runs like crap or dies the valve is good.
The ECT definately is a possibility. Go through the steps that were listed above.
The PCV valve will make your car smoke if it's bad. But an easy way to check it is to pinch the hose with a pair of needle nose pliers with the engine running. If you hear a "click" it's good.
If that doesn't work check your distributor timing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks everyone, you guys have been a lot of help, I would have went through even more before I had even remotely thought about the ECT sensor.
The ECT definately is a possibility. Go through the steps that were listed above.
The PCV valve will make your car smoke if it's bad. But an easy way to check it is to pinch the hose with a pair of needle nose pliers with the engine running. If you hear a "click" it's good.
If that doesn't work check your distributor timing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks everyone, you guys have been a lot of help, I would have went through even more before I had even remotely thought about the ECT sensor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda-Master »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just something also i thought of,, make sure you do not have an internally leaking injector..</TD></TR></TABLE>
A friend of mine said that could very possibly be my problem, although I dont know, they're stock and havnt ever been touched. I'll have to add those to my list of things to check. The car has 160k on it btw.
A friend of mine said that could very possibly be my problem, although I dont know, they're stock and havnt ever been touched. I'll have to add those to my list of things to check. The car has 160k on it btw.
Alright I bought a new electronic coolent temp sensor today, the ****** cost me 31 bucks!! I'll have it installed tomorrow.
and the money shot, hahahaha
Lets hope this fixes it!
and the money shot, hahahaha
Lets hope this fixes it!


