I have a 96 accord ex obd II. My valves were tapping semi loud so i figured what the hell why not do a valve adjustment. I looked through all the valve adjustment threads and the helms, gave it a shot. I used a .010mm feeler for the intake valves and .013mm for the exhaust valves. I turned the crank pulley 180 degrees each time and according to my cam marks i was at TDC but now my tapping is even louder then before. I tried adjusting them twice no luck.

Is it possible that my timing is off that's why i cant get the valve adjustment right? I believe that is it because i followed the procedure exactly in the helms twice same tapping.

 

I've always sunscribed to a low tech approach (and I hate to type), so I use the "pencil in the sparkplug hole" proceedure.
I first establish #1 cylinder TDC by aligning the crank pulley mark and having the cam mark pointing straight up. I set the valve lash for that cylinder and move on to the next.
The order is 1,3,4,2
I stick the eraser end of the pencil down the spark plug hole, advance the crank counter-clockwise till the pencil indicates TDC, and adjust that cylinder
and on
and on until done.
You'll know you're adjusting the correct cylinder because neither cam follower will be tight. They'll also be aligned with what's refered to as the cam's base circle.

P

 

pensil or stick trick works great especiailly for cylinder number two and three

 

if cylinder 1 is at tdc then the only valves that should have movement is cylinder 1 right? When a cylinder is at tdc should those valves be the only ones that have play in them? Another question what if my cam gear isnt at tdc when the dowel is at it's highest point?Does that mean my timing is off?

 

go to hondahookup.com .. there is a good write up ,on the HOW TO about valve adjustment

 

Not nessacarily. You can find inidents of either an intake or an exhaust which may (coincidently) be fully closed in any of the other three cylinders, but the only one with BOTH fully closed will be #1

P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotwix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if cylinder 1 is at tdc then the only valves that should have movement is cylinder 1 right? When a cylinder is at tdc should those valves be the only ones that have play in them? Another question what if my cam gear isnt at tdc when the dowel is at it's highest point?Does that mean my timing is off?</TD></TR></TABLE>

all you looking to achieve here is to make proper adjustment while the piston(you working on) is at tdc. you can manually(and you need to) turn the crank pulley(not CAM pulley)so it would rotate.

just post back if you have trouble

 

I just tried using .008mm intake and .011mm exhaust as a suggestion and still no luck the tapping is a little more quiet now but it is still tapping louder than before. What can be causing my adjustment to be off? The motor is usually cold when i am adjusting them as well. I also reset my ecu everytime i adjusted them. I am turning the crank to tdc for each cylinder using the cam gear marks.

this is the method i am using

1) Insert feeling into spec spot.
2) Turn adjustment **** till it hits the feeler.
3) back out a 1/4 turn and remove feeler
4) turn adjustment 1/4 turn to #2's position.
5) lock **** with nut.


Modified by turbotwix at 12:54 PM 2/24/2006