After I pulled the motor out of my Integra parts car, I didn't have anywhere to put it so I left it outside and it got rained on for about 2 weeks. So obviously, it rusted. I was wondering if I should get it bored or just honed? Would boring it .010 or .020 over even make a difference in torque or power?

 

By the way, its gonna be turboed, not NA

 

find u a decent set of pistons and get it bored

 

Take it to a shop that does that kinda work and they will tell you right away what your best bet is gonna be.

 

oh ohh, stroker kitt??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FlatBlackTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh ohh, stroker kitt??</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. It is going to be boosted to about 15 psi.

 

i have a strong feeling a lot of people arent going to agree with me but if its surface rust try soaking the walls with some brake fluid and wipe it down with a rag..i did it to my gsr block and it came off real well..although for peace of mind i got it honed anyway...but it wont hurt to try and see if you will be satisfied with the results

 

if your building it for turbo you might as well bore it to 81.5
any machine shop will tell you that you should always over bore a little when your rebuilding. .10(.25mm) or .20(.5mm) would really give you any noticable increase in performance

.10 over .25mm over will only give you 11 more cc's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PhatBoy5015 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No. It is going to be boosted to about 15 psi. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Id hone it and see what it looks like.

 

Well if your going turbo, are you going to buy forged pistons? If you are might as well buy oversize, because you never know how bad the cylinders are. Make sure you buy the pistons first then match each piston to the cylinder when they hone and bore it.

 

That rust is not going to be what determines whether or not it will need to be bored. Clean it and measure it, that is the only way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by biassj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well if your going turbo, are you going to buy forged pistons? If you are might as well buy oversize, because you never know how bad the cylinders are. Make sure you buy the pistons first then match each piston to the cylinder when they hone and bore it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, i am buying forged pistons. I was most likely going to go with Wiseco (K542M81 or K542M815). Why would I have to match anything up? When I get it bored or honed, all the cylinders will be identical. And all the pistons will be identical.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PhatBoy5015 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah, i am buying forged pistons. I was most likely going to go with Wiseco (K542M81 or K542M815). Why would I have to match anything up? When I get it bored or honed, all the cylinders will be identical. And all the pistons will be identical. </TD></TR></TABLE>You sure about that buddy? Ask any good machine show and they will tell you to bring them the pistons before they bore it. I'm not going to go into why. But you really should just do it that way.

 

just get it cleaned and honed and you'll be straight

 

if you're going to be forcing 15 lbs of air in, you dont want to bore it out too too much... I suggest .05, maybe .10 but not .5.... the more you slice off of your sleeves, the weaker they get!! whoever said it... 'stroker kit'... dont even think about it with boost in a GSR... high rpms+longer stroke+boost=death to your motor in a few months... get some brakleen or any other comparable brake cleaner and see how much you can get off... after that, nothing a bore cant take care of... just think real hard about how much you're going to take out...

 

PS... put a tarp over it next time.... it kills me to see that motor in such pain!

 

OK. So which pistons would yall get? I mean between the wisecos I said before, not trying to start a piston debate. Just trying to get the best stuff for my setup.

 

resleeve it home bro... next time put a tarp or something to cover it...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by milton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">resleeve it home bro... next time put a tarp or something to cover it...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Resleeve it? Just cause of some surface rust? Bullshit. Resleeving it cost a lot more than boring or honing and stock sleeves are more than strong enough for what I'm doing.

 

lol resleeve isnt necessary... but would be fun : )


dream setup:
Benson sleeves, 81.5 mm 9.5:1 wiseco, gt35r and a fullrace kit...500+ whp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TiredToyotaDriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're going to be forcing 15 lbs of air in, you dont want to bore it out too too much... I suggest .05, maybe .10 but not .5.... the more you slice off of your sleeves, the weaker they get!! just think real hard about how much you're going to take out...</TD></TR></TABLE>

But they only make standard and .020 over pistons. Would .5mm really make the sleeves that much weaker?

 

if i were to choose pistons i wouldnt go with weisco..i would go with Arias pistons..and you might as well get forged H-beam rods while you are at it..get some carillo rods..they are expensive but bad ***!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TiredToyotaDriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol resleeve isnt necessary... but would be fun : )


dream setup:
Benson sleeves, 81.5 mm 9.5:1 wiseco, gt35r and a fullrace kit...500+ whp </TD></TR></TABLE>

your dream setup is weak...

Titanium H22 bored out enough to allow for maximum displacement at 500 pounds of boost. Diamond valves because you need a little bling inside your engine, titanium cams, titanium head with titanium connecting bolts and some sort of really serious head gasket. All mercury cooled... forget this anti-freeze ****. titanium rods and a titanium blade cut crank shaft. Clutch on a torque converter (this is so that I can double the torque output of my engine and still have a clutch and drive like a manual. The torque converter would have an internal clutch that i could turn on and off as i pleased. A compact tranny with LSD and with 10 gears so that i can go a thousand on the highway. Titanium reinforced chassis, and a nice clean SSBP DA9 body. and heres the kicker.... WITH RETRACTABLE SEAT BELTS!!! WOO

 

lol... well I guess I didnt put quite as much thought into mine as you did yours : )