You WILL need a vtec controller, gears, header, intake........that's about it.

 

First off, spec b's aren't a drop in product. You'll need to be running high compression pistons for them to benefit you. Secondly, you definitely need to upgrade you springs and retainers with those cams. Go with the todas, they're the best bet with those cams. Third, you'll need to spend some time on a dyno to get them tuned right. They'll probably make your car feel like **** untuned. . .

 

I have no idea why y'all scream "high compression" when Toda B's are mentioned. Sure, you'll get more power, but with good tuning, 185whp is well within reach, with V-AFC, good header, intake and exhaust. Besides, I didn't buy Spec B's for peak power, I bought them for (all together now) BIG FAT MIDRANGE!

Of course, no one believes my motor is still alive running stock valvetrain for 6k miles


[edit] Oh yeah, and cam gears, too. [/edit]


[Modified by itr009, 10:02 AM 3/28/2002]

 

bleh, was trying to keep it under $1500 so i could come out with more then $100 dollars per hp. i guess its unposibble!!!

 

You need to use something for fuel tuning. Custom chipped ECU maybe, at the very least. 190+ = good engine management and kick-*** tuning.

 

I would NEVER do Spec B's again without bumping compression. Yes, you'll see gains, but not enough to justify the amount of money spent.

Jason-
who'll be shooting for 200+ whp with the project

 

To a certain degree..... valve springs offer peace of mind as well.....

I've seen anywhere from 175-190 on spec b's or spec c's and stock compression.....

But you really can't get around the fact that NA for these cars is $100 per whp.

 

Bah! You big baby

I guess I have the "budget" B set-up:

$275 for V-AFC
$425 for JDM header
$200 for AEM
$50+30 for cat
$200 for Toda gears
$800 for Toda cams
$40 dyno time

STOCK cat-back. STOCK injectors. STOCK valvetrain. STOCK ecu. Built up over the course of 18 months.

But I agree - if I started out saying "I'm going to build a motor for B's" instead of a friend saying "here, buy my B's and I'll throw them in tomorrow" I would go all out - compression, standalone, etc.


Pat, who seems to recall being dead-even with Garth on third-gear pulls

 

We should have raced from low in the rpm band

Jason-
who promises to thoroughly apply a smackdown to Pat once the project has been completed

 

BRING IT!!

I'll throw a 150-shot on Da Gun and fuggin' roast your ***!!! Then I'll fuggin' run over your hatchcrap in the Scout!

All kinds of smackdown for the eight seconds the motor holds together

 

mine was semi cheap
Comptech Icebox
DC JDM - - -Have since switched to Toda Header
Ported and polished head
2.5 exhaust
Toda Spec B's
AEM cam gears
Portflow /type r valvetrain
VAFC



thats vs stock with a VAFC

 

Well, I would think around $2500 for everything. Dyno tunning is not cheap, unless you find some one who has a program sheet to go by for less dyno time.

You'll be happy....

"spend money one time to have it done correctly is how I look at it."

 

well, i'm not sure about that. i gained over 40hp at 8,000 rpm with spec b's and springs, drop in. stock injectors, stock throttle body, stock bottom + spec b's and springs = 194hp.

 

What did you use for fuel tuning?

 

Skip the aem, unless you want to trade me your airbox and arm for my aem. Use skunk2 gears instead of toda's....I'm finally within a month of installing the Spec Bs swift sold me about 3 months ago, unless someone wants to trade me for some spec As...

 

My R made 193 to the wheels last season, with 134 ft/lbs or torque. Stock bottom end, stock head, with spec B's. It was enough to for me to tag 12's in a DC2R, at 104+mph.

If you're interested, I can Email you the specs and settings of all my stuff (cam gear, fuel pressure and VAFC settings).

 

No offense, but that's difficult to believe. For starters, which engine are you speaking of? Also, what other mods were involved?

+40whp at 8k with Bs is extremely difficult to believe, especially with stock compression...

 

whats the most basic route to get 190whp+ with spec b's? im not really interested in a vafc. was wondering if i could just slap them in and use cam gears with them? maybe some retainers/springs and a chipped ecu?

 

cheap route = cheap results in most cases. I would just be patient for another month or so and save $$$ for all the necessary tools. Maybe you can fine tune it with cam-gears and FPR, but why not do it right the first time? dyno time is very expensive to say the least.

 

i always beleive that you get what you pay for.