how do i avoid bounce with new coilovers?
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From: tHe LOnEsTar StAtE biches, TX
this monday i had a chance to install my arospeed coilovers or should i say at least the front ones. i noticed a slight bounce on bumpy roads but nothing my but cant handle. So on tuesday i installed the rear now i cut all four bumpstops about 1/3 of each one. The car is running on stock shocks and i know i need aftermarket shocks but in the meantime what can i do to reduce the bouncing around in the rear. should i cut the bumps stops in half. Oh btw the rear perches are the the way to the top which my ride is not to dropped in the rear i can fit 3 fingers and 2 fingers in the front.
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From: tHe LOnEsTar StAtE biches, TX
for those purchasing coilovers: i used to have tokico and tanabe springs before and i like my coilovers better. The ride smooth only on unleveled roads it bounces in the rear but not too much. No harsh ride here.
The tokico springs(1.5") on the otherhand were close to stock but kinda bumpy.
The tanabe D210(2") springs were the worst ones i had the ride felt real stiff but it had a nice drop.
All of these on stock shocks.
The tokico springs(1.5") on the otherhand were close to stock but kinda bumpy.
The tanabe D210(2") springs were the worst ones i had the ride felt real stiff but it had a nice drop.
All of these on stock shocks.
Thats how mine were. When I first installed my arospeed coilovers 5 years ago, I drove down this new paved concrete road and it felt like i was in a car with hydralics, it was bouncing ALOT, but after a few weeks it got better and then like a month later It was gone. I love them, after 5 years, no sag, nothing broken. They're awesome 450 in the front and 350 in the rear. Alot people say aropseed is garabage, but I have no complaints!!!
Ya really just have to get good shocks. The better the shock, the better the ride. Even 700lb springs can be fine on the road if you have revalved Konis.
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From: tHe LOnEsTar StAtE biches, TX
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadriver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats how mine were. When I first installed my arospeed coilovers 5 years ago, I drove down this new paved concrete road and it felt like i was in a car with hydralics, it was bouncing ALOT, but after a few weeks it got better and then like a month later It was gone. I love them, after 5 years, no sag, nothing broken. They're awesome 450 in the front and 350 in the rear. Alot people say aropseed is garabage, but I have no complaints!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
ya i thought so too. To tell u the truth they are not that bad.
what i noticed one of the rear spring it started to sag a little so i had to adjust the other side a tad more to balance out the level of the car.
My question is do i cut the rear bump stops in half or leave it at 2/3 like i have it right now. Will this reduce bounce?
ya i thought so too. To tell u the truth they are not that bad.
what i noticed one of the rear spring it started to sag a little so i had to adjust the other side a tad more to balance out the level of the car.My question is do i cut the rear bump stops in half or leave it at 2/3 like i have it right now. Will this reduce bounce?
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From: tHe LOnEsTar StAtE biches, TX
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmhmm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any adjustable springs with stock shocks are gonna be stiff</TD></TR></TABLE>
no not exactly. i myself thought like u, the ride is not stiff just a slight bouncy in the rear.
no not exactly. i myself thought like u, the ride is not stiff just a slight bouncy in the rear.
You probably have a bump stop issue.
I usually only leave about 1/3 of the bumpstop in place.
To test for sure, remove the wheel, and the dust shield from the shock. re-install the shock, and jack the suspension up as tho the car were on it's wheels. you should be able to see the bumpstop, and you can see just how much travel you have before contacting it. Have a friend bounce the car while you watch the bumpstop. If it hits it all the time, you have too much stop (or you are too low)
I usually only leave about 1/3 of the bumpstop in place.
To test for sure, remove the wheel, and the dust shield from the shock. re-install the shock, and jack the suspension up as tho the car were on it's wheels. you should be able to see the bumpstop, and you can see just how much travel you have before contacting it. Have a friend bounce the car while you watch the bumpstop. If it hits it all the time, you have too much stop (or you are too low)
wow, this is so full of misinformation it's gross. Bumpstops are your friend! Take a read at this article by H&R: http://www.hrsprings.com/site/....html
How many HT threads say "ask the manufacturer how much bumpstop needs to be cut" ? Eh, arospeed "coilovers" are crap anyway.
How many HT threads say "ask the manufacturer how much bumpstop needs to be cut" ? Eh, arospeed "coilovers" are crap anyway.
yes, bumpstops are your friend when you are not riding on them 24/7.
when the weight of your car is sitting on the last little bit of spring honda installed on the car, instead of the entire coil you just dropped a couple hundred dollars on, you are going to get a crap ride.
the bumpstops are really high rate springs that will fail if used excessively.
instead of insulting someone, and posting up misleading information that does not address the situation, possibly you could turn your efforts to learning by your own experiences, and not by what some company that wants to sell you something tells you.
(BTW, it's also very helpful if the link you post to defend your opinion, actually does so. your link says the "bumpstop" is finely tuned with the stock suspension of your car. if you replace the springs, with something different, the tune of that bumpstop is no longer a factor. since we don't work for BASF and have a hard time getting them to create custom bumpstops for each specific spring application, those of us who actually pay attention to the changes they are making, tend to trim the stop down, making it at least somewhat functional)
also, when you've lowered your honda, remember to reset your suspension bushings. part of the "harmony of spring rates" is the torsional springs built in to the bushings on the upper and lower control arms. all those bushings are tightened down at the factory with the weight on the car at stock height. when you lower the car, you are now twisting all those bushings, which make the effective spring rate of the entire suspension "heavier" put the car in the air (like on ramps) and loosen all the bolts that hold the suspension together. you'll need to loosen the bolt where the LCA bolts to the crossmember, the bolt thru the bottom of the strut fork, and the bolts thru the UCA mounts.
loosen them up enough that you can wedge a prybar into the bushing and make sure the steel inner bushing lets go of the arm/cross/fork. with the weight on the car at the new height, the steels will reset to their un-twisted position. once they have all been reset, tighten everything down (double check, always). since you'll now be riding on the springs (or the bumpstops if you follow H&R's advice) and not the suspension bushings, your ride should be a little softer.
(funny, how manufacturers never tell you the important details, huh? some things you just have to learn from experience)
Modified by psychoboy at 7:39 PM 2/20/2006
Modified by psychoboy at 4:58 AM 2/21/2006
when the weight of your car is sitting on the last little bit of spring honda installed on the car, instead of the entire coil you just dropped a couple hundred dollars on, you are going to get a crap ride.
the bumpstops are really high rate springs that will fail if used excessively.
instead of insulting someone, and posting up misleading information that does not address the situation, possibly you could turn your efforts to learning by your own experiences, and not by what some company that wants to sell you something tells you.
(BTW, it's also very helpful if the link you post to defend your opinion, actually does so. your link says the "bumpstop" is finely tuned with the stock suspension of your car. if you replace the springs, with something different, the tune of that bumpstop is no longer a factor. since we don't work for BASF and have a hard time getting them to create custom bumpstops for each specific spring application, those of us who actually pay attention to the changes they are making, tend to trim the stop down, making it at least somewhat functional)
also, when you've lowered your honda, remember to reset your suspension bushings. part of the "harmony of spring rates" is the torsional springs built in to the bushings on the upper and lower control arms. all those bushings are tightened down at the factory with the weight on the car at stock height. when you lower the car, you are now twisting all those bushings, which make the effective spring rate of the entire suspension "heavier" put the car in the air (like on ramps) and loosen all the bolts that hold the suspension together. you'll need to loosen the bolt where the LCA bolts to the crossmember, the bolt thru the bottom of the strut fork, and the bolts thru the UCA mounts.
loosen them up enough that you can wedge a prybar into the bushing and make sure the steel inner bushing lets go of the arm/cross/fork. with the weight on the car at the new height, the steels will reset to their un-twisted position. once they have all been reset, tighten everything down (double check, always). since you'll now be riding on the springs (or the bumpstops if you follow H&R's advice) and not the suspension bushings, your ride should be a little softer.
(funny, how manufacturers never tell you the important details, huh? some things you just have to learn from experience)
Modified by psychoboy at 7:39 PM 2/20/2006
Modified by psychoboy at 4:58 AM 2/21/2006
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