well originally i went into the state ref to get my exhaust BARD but then i forgot they pop the motor to check fluids, so now it changed from exhaust noise to motor swap, and he can't do the sound check until the motor is BARD, so he told me he can smog it right now and to see if it passes then he can do the sound check, but until then he can't do it, so i thought i would give it a shot, and failed. Failed HC and NOX, but its not that bad and i want to see if u guys can help me pin point the problem. i was talking to the tech students and they said it wasnt really that bad and said it was prolly the cat, cause its old,Here is wat i have..

2001 GSR motor (he ran it as a 94 Motor have no IDEA why)

Using the OBD1 ECU (no Check lights)

it has a skunk 2 intake manifold

CTR cams - (from wat the last owner said, so not really sure)

he did a visual and its missing the EVAP Canister and Purge Solenoid

and has the original 92 civic Cat on there

Number -

 

was the car cold/????

 

it did sit for a lil bit when they were doing the visual and everything

 

well i just bought a brand new magnaflow cat, lets hope that it helps me

 

it said on the paper that im missing the EVAP solenoid, can anyone tell me wat that is? would it be this?

 

Get a Magnaflow cat. They make them application specific. So it has the flanges already on. You will for sure pass.

PM me if you need one. I have them all in stock. I am in So Cal


Also next time you go to smog your car. MAKE SURE its warm and keep the car on ideling. when the cat is warm, its read correct. When cold it doesn't work as well.

...edit...READING PWNED ME

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPNFEDEH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i just bought a brand new magnaflow cat, lets hope that it helps me</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMS MIKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a Magnaflow cat. They make them application specific. So it has the flanges already on. You will for sure pass.

PM me if you need one. I have them all in stock. I am in So Cal


Also next time you go to smog your car. MAKE SURE its warm and keep the car on ideling. when the cat is warm, its read correct. When cold it doesn't work as well.

...edit...READING PWNED ME

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

might as well change out your o2 sensor while your at it. I had the same exact problem bar'ing my car. Just changed out cat and passed.

 

wow the bar station ran the motor as a 94? if thats the case its missing more than that unless its converted to obd2 and missing some parts....... you got lucky and the guy didnt know it was an obd2 motor...the next guy might not let that one slip....weird that got by a califorina bar station...... for you... good luck...do a valve adjustment and cap rotor and use a obd1 gsr cat stock is better...Good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K20DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow the bar station ran the motor as a 94? if thats the case its missing more than that unless its converted to obd2 and missing some parts....... you got lucky and the guy didnt know it was an obd2 motor...the next guy might not let that one slip....weird that got by a califorina bar station...... for you... good luck...do a valve adjustment and cap rotor and use a obd1 gsr cat stock is better...Good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>

everything is still obd2 except the ecu, but hoping with just the cat it should help me pass, u guys think if i put the stock exaust back on it would help also? oh and i had my silencer on at the time of the smog, u think if i took the silencer out it would help with the gasses to escape more inside just circling around inside?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPNFEDEH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it said on the paper that im missing the EVAP solenoid, can anyone tell me wat that is? would it be this?


</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's it, the purge solenoid valve and cansister it wouldn't hurt if you change out the cat and O2 sensor while you're at it.

BTW the one you circled on the left is the IAB tank aka secondaries tank.

 

exhaust systems do not effect smog in any way......

 

Ya, your co2% levels should be up at 14.7-15 %. I'd say it was cold, and seeing as it just barely failed, you should be fine. Any lower on the co2 I'd replace the cat, but it seems to be working fine. Before you go to take the SMOG only part again, sit in a parking lot and hold it at 3000 for 5 minutes Sucks, but it will heat the hell out of the cat. Should pass next time.

o2 sensor should make the idle numbers way higher, I think that its fine.

 

hopefully everything will be ok when i go back, i got a brand new cat, and i have my evap purge on the way, so visual should be good and with the new cat, it should be good also, i'm also going to get that guarenteed to pass **** that they sell at auto zone and retard the timing a bit so it doesn't burn at high tempatures, and run/rev the car so that cat can get nice and hot, as mentioned above, cause i know when he does the visual again, hes going to turn the car off, any other tips?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPNFEDEH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hopefully everything will be ok when i go back, i got a brand new cat, and i have my evap purge on the way, so visual should be good and with the new cat, it should be good also, i'm also going to get that guarenteed to pass **** that they sell at auto zone and retard the timing a bit so it doesn't burn at high tempatures, and run/rev the car so that cat can get nice and hot, as mentioned above, cause i know when he does the visual again, hes going to turn the car off, any other tips?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just make sure the vehicle is in good running condition and that it has been tuned properly.

 

why would you retard the timing? he'll end up failing you if your a couple degrees off of 16 degrees btdc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AnDThEnWuT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would you retard the timing? he'll end up failing you if your a couple degrees off of 16 degrees btdc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

correct. Car must be at 15-17 degree's! or it will fail visual

 

Don't screw with the timing, don't run the guaranteed to pass stuff.. If this is really worth it to you, and getting that BAR sticker for your swap usually is, go to a normal smog test place and ask them to do a pretest for you. might cost you $25. That will let you know if you will pass the actual emissions sniffer test.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigcalidave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't screw with the timing, go to a normal smog test place and ask them to do a pretest for you. might cost you $25. That will let you know if you will pass the actual emissions sniffer test.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Truer words have never been said.

 

someone just said that i could get away with like 2 degrees off, **** maybe i should touch it then. wats wrong with the guarenteed to pass stuff? i heard it works, but who knows

 

Just leave the timing alone and figure out why the vehicle is not passing. I have snuck vehicles passed the BAR smog ref by loosening the catalytic converter and sticking a nut in the flange, then tightening it back up. What this does is it lets less exhaust go past the smog machine probe by sucking in air before the catalytic and diluting the exhaust gases. If you tinker with the timing, you'll fail visual.

 

hahaha, very good trick, but wouldn't they hear the exhaust escaping through that gap?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPNFEDEH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hahaha, very good trick, but wouldn't they hear the exhaust escaping through that gap?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not with the hood open and the dyno itself makes alot of noise.

 

hmm i wonder if that would really work

 

wat about the grade of fuel some say use low grade some say use high, confused =/