So I finally got around to installing this autoloc solenoid into my trunk since I have and aux button on my car alarm. When I push the button nuttin happens and I did test the solenoid out before install just off the battery.

I used a SPDT relay and heres how the wires are run.

30 and 86 have a constant 12v source

87 runs to the solenoid

85 gets the neg signal from the alarm/remote

It does show a diode in one of the various diagrams. Could this be the only thing holding the relay from getting a solid ground input? What else do you think it could be. The solenoid is grounded to the same place as my sub so it should be all good to go..TIA

 

Well, if you ran a diode the wrong way, it could be preventing current flow. I dont know how exactily its suppose to be wired, but that could be an issue.

 

the thing is I didnt have a diode on hand so one isnt installed as of yet. Could that be it?

 

is the relay clicking when you hold the aux?

 

not sure I wasnt payin attention

 

well that would be the first thing to check. also check the ground on the alarm. It needs to be in a good spot or well grounded. Also check to make sure there is voltage to the relay.

 

I think its the lack of a diode. I hooked a wire to the neg. side of the relay and grounded to the trunk latch and it worked. Release button works too. Im gonna try these diodes I bought tommow. Prolly not getting a solid ground from the neg inpulse the alarm puts out

 

i highly doubt it's the diode. I've installed tons of the trunk release units and never required one. My guess is a ground isn't good enough or something of the sort.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjr162 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i highly doubt it's the diode. I've installed tons of the trunk release units and never required one. My guess is a ground isn't good enough or something of the sort. </TD></TR></TABLE> I am going to have to agree, all the diode is for is to keep the contact in the relay from arcing.

You have already tried what I would have suggested, [ground relay term. 85] to check if you have things wired right and to see if relay is good, and you did and it is.

The problem is that there is no output on the EXT wire, have you tried holding the button down for a few sec.? a lot of alarms, remote starts and key-less entry units require the "trunk release button" to be held for a bit so it is not accidentally triggered.

The other thing I would check is programing, the output from that EXT may need programing.

One more thing, that EXT output wire may not be controlled by that button, even if there is only 2 buttons on the remote you can have as many as 4 EXT outputs..
1- Push and release button.
2- Push and hold button.
3- Push and release both buttons.
4- Push and hold both buttons.

Tell me this, what is the make and model of the alarm, and what color is the wire you used? 94

 

Its a viper, not sure which model. Id have to dig my book out, but it has a three button remote. 1 to arm/disarm, panic button and the aux button. The guy at the shop said he thought it should be a red wire w/ a white stripe and that what I found when I dug the control box out from under the dash.

BTW the diode didnt do anything. I def dont think Im gettin enough ground if any out of the control box.

 

Without knowing the model it's going to be hard to help, but red/white is normally used for trunk release, like all EXT outputs it is no more then about 200mA, [neg. (-)] it is normally referred to as "Validity 2 Output" and is controlled buy the button/s you programed as channel 2, and must be held for at least 1.5 sec. the output will stay "on" as long as you hold the button/s. Model number should be on the alarm brain "control box" 94


Modified by fcm at 11:42 AM 2/20/2006

 

its a Viper 350HV

 

On the Viper 350HV the red/white wire should have a 200mA ground on it 1.5 sec. after you push and hold the AUX button and stay "latched" until you release the button, unless channel 2 has been been programed to another button, [check by trying "silent arm" press and release AUX button then press arm/disarm button] if alarm arms silently, [no chirp] remote transmitter has been programed properly, [standard configuration] that only leaves a problem with the Viper 350HVs main brain.

If you have a digital multimeter you could check and see if there is any output or if there is just not enough, [about 125mA] to "energize" the relay, either way you will need a new brain.

You could also try the white/blue wire, [H1/3] (-) 200mA channel 3 programmable output, it is also factory preset at "Validity" press and hold both arm/disarm and AUX, [at the same time] and you get a 200mA neg. (-) output on the whit/blue wire for as long as you hold the buttons. 94

 

late reply, but I got it to work and you the man...It takes a solid 2 sec to get it to work. Now I gotta get the line lined up propely to get a solid pull....thx mang