i had another thread, but thats when i thought my car was smoking for overheating reasons. making this one with a more apropriate name.

i have a bad oil leak around the filter area, however after changing the oil, puttin on new filter and making sure it is tight, i found that i still have a bad oil leak.

What else could be causing this? I heard that it could be a seal on the back of the block, above the filter, but i cant see in there that well and have no idea how i would even stop that.

Any ideas appreciated

...also, could this just be oil dripping down from the previous oil leak? i didnt clean it up.

 

it could be just old oil, see if it goes away...also make sure there is not an old oil filter gasket that has stuck to the engine block, that could also cause an oil leak from the filter area.

 

i quadruple checked for double gasketing this time

so thats not the problem


brand new valve cover gasket, which i checked as well, bone dry all around valve cover

 

could be the oil sending unit,,, could be oil filter housing o-ring.. ( cooler ) o-ring..

 

oil filter housing o ring?

is that inside the threaded part?

im searching through my helms now, but its a PDF and i dunno what page this would be on

 

found those in my manual, ill take a look at those next

i dont think mine has the cooler thing tho

1993 accord lx f22a1

ill still check for it tho

 

The '93 Accord Lx doesn't have a remote oil cooler adapter. It would look like item #22 in the supplied illustration link. (but the number is not called out for your application).

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...AINER

I suspect the oil pressure sensor unit which is also mounted in the same general location.

P

 

kool thanks P

i have another question.

when i filled my car with oil after the change 3.7 quarts, i turned the car on for a minute, turned off and checked the level...it read empty

today, after i checked it, it read 2x full. so i ran the car for a moment, turned it off, checked again, and it read 2x full again.

i know i didnt put in 7 quarts, as i only had 4 quarts, and i have part of one left.

what could cause it to read so innacurately?

 

I suspect that, if indeed you find it overfilled after sitting a while, you've blocked (clogged) oil return passages in the head which isn't allowing the oil to drain back into the oil sump (pan).
What's happening is; when you start the engine up, it immediately starts pumping oil throughout the engine. In most every place, it simply lubricates things and then drops directly back into the sump (pan), except the top of the cylinder head. A good portion of the oil is pumped up to lubricate the cam(s) and related mechanisms, and then it's supposed to gravity drain down to the sump, where the process continues. When the oil returns clog, that oil has to find alternative routes out of that area, either seeping thru restricted passages or leaking past gaskets.
This is why when you first check the level there's none (it's all up in the head) until later, where the oils had enough time to leak back.
The Valve cover needs to come off for inspection of the cam gallery and it's related drain passages.

P

 

any way to easily unclog a passage way?


bah i hate this car

 

If your car is not turbocharged, then i'm assuming your oil send unit is leaking (it's on top of your oil filter, very small Fitting that has a harness cover it)..if you check that too see that's the problem. If it is, fixing it is very easy. Just go to AutoZone or any auto parts store and ask them for a New Oil Fitting that fits into the sending unit and just replace with with your old one.

 

I use an old gun (.22cal) cleaning kit (specifically the rod and brushes), some use a coat hanger. When it gets bad enough, the only way is to mechanically remove it.
Let's confirm that's what you're dealing with b4 we start blaming the car.

In addition, you're going to have to pull the oil pan and clean that out as well (IF you've got a bad sludge build up.) All that crap you dislodge from the oil return passages is going to fall into the sump, and if left there will choke the oil pump the first time you start up. At that point, you won't have to worry about oil leaks.

P

 

unfortunately i dont know enough about cars to do some of these things, so i need to ask another question.

to clean those, do i have to pull the head, to access the passeges, or can those be accessed by taking off the valve cover?

and, i know how to take off a oil pan, but do you have to undo the exhaust manifold to get the pan out...it looks like i would, but wasnt sure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93cb7sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to clean those, do i have to pull the head, to access the passeges, or can those be accessed by taking off the valve cover?
and, i know how to take off a oil pan, but do you have to undo the exhaust manifold to get the pan out...it looks like i would, but wasnt sure</TD></TR></TABLE>

The head? No. Just the Valve Cover for right now. The oil drain passages in the head line up with their counterparts in the block (Thats why the oil pan warning)

R&R the oil pan? Down pipe ("A"), yes. Exhaust manifold (I believe not)

P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The head? No. Just the Valve Cover for right now. The oil drain passages in the head line up with their counterparts in the block (Thats why the oil pan warning)

R&R the oil pan? Down pipe ("A"), yes. Exhaust manifold (I believe not)

P</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, yeah, the piece below the manifold and the cat, so the down pipe i guess.

(remember im a noob) where did my larger post count come from? lol

any other way, like an additive that can break down sludge? im definately gonna clean the block and see where the leak is actually coming from before i do anything else, but i work 5 days a week and have a hard time finding the time to do something like this.

arggg, i had someone going to buy my car this weekend for 3500, but i told them i found this problem, i dont wanna sell a car thats gonna break on someone in their first trip home, i would feel terrible

 

why dont you stop making pointless posts in everyones threads and end yourself

 

after looking at lots of pictures and lots of searching i notice that engines with sludge building and such that blocks passageways, there is alot of this stuff.

when i had my valve cover off that thing was clean as a whistle, i mean i couldnt see any form of sludge period.

then every time ive changed my oil, it hasnt had anything in it at all. so i dont see how sludge could cause a backup in one of the passages.

what else could possibly cause a blockage?

 

here is a crappy picture with my cell phone camera, take a look. the oil seems to be coming from a line that is above the filter that you cant see in the pic, im guessing that is the oil pressure sending unit

 

What threw me towards the sludge build-up sinario was your observation of at first having no oil indicated, and then finding it overfilled.
As with most everything diagnosed from a distance, there are a lot of "IF's" involved; that's why I used it in my responses.
Let's concentrate on the external oil leak first.
You've several items which can cause leaks in the rear of the engine
Valve Cover gasket
Oil Filter
Oil Pressure Sensor Unit

I believe the pipes to which you refer carry either coolant, or Power steering fluid to the Rack, trans sensor and other things. They very seldom fail.

P

 

honda printed out a diagram of the oil pressure sender that showed me how to fix it, they also gave me something to do with a oil strainer, or something like that, and said that could be why the dipstick reads wrong as well.

tuesday im gonna try and fix this.

thanks for the help guys

 

is this the oil pressure sending unit?

im gonna go ahead and replace this as well, since honda advised me to do it, they said that they can rupture, so it would be a good idea.

 

turns out that my sending unit was ruptured and that is why i was leaking oil.
i bought a new unit to replace it.


im gonna throw this info in, for search purposes.

There is no gasket or o ring on the sending unit, the reason is because it is pipe threading (which means it is tapered threading) so it seals itself as it tightens. If you add some thread sealent to the threads then it will be sealed.

This piece does not sit flush against the block, so when putting one on, dont over torque it