what is needed for a 300-350whp d16z6?
im making about 200whp right now on my d16z6 stock block. going to build my spare block and was wanting to see what exactly everyone suggests for my goal of 300-350whp.
i will be needing rods, pistons, bearings, new turbo, and manifold. trying not to spend a whole lot.
i will be needing rods, pistons, bearings, new turbo, and manifold. trying not to spend a whole lot.
to be honest the thing that holds back the d-series is the most is the head it becomes a pretty big restriction when getting into the 350ish whp range. As for the turbo i would look into getting a t3/t04e 57 trim it might be a little laggy but pull harcore topend and will have enough left in it if you up the boost later. You can also go with a cc-fab manifold they are really cheap and well made from what i hear. As for pistons and rods, go with eagle and cp/wiseco they will be more than enough for what you are looking to get
yea im probably going to get eagles/cp's form a sponser on here. cheap good manifold is all i need.
right now im on a greddy 15g kit on 10psi.
you said get a t3/t04e 57 trim... i dont plan on going any further with this so what would be something good for 300-350whp only and nothing more?
right now im on a greddy 15g kit on 10psi.
you said get a t3/t04e 57 trim... i dont plan on going any further with this so what would be something good for 300-350whp only and nothing more?
oh my bad dude.
57 trim is nice, i was making 300-320 on it a few weeks ago. ill have it for my new build as well, but making 400-425 with it, but thats getting up there for its efficiency.
cc-fab makes a solid manifold. i bougth his ramhorn. it wasnt completely equal length, but pretty close. its much better than the log mani i had previously, and his welds are very solid. its hard to beat it for the price.
the zex cam is hot for boost too, im sure it will help you realize your power goals on a few psi less and with a more aggressive powerband
57 trim is nice, i was making 300-320 on it a few weeks ago. ill have it for my new build as well, but making 400-425 with it, but thats getting up there for its efficiency.
cc-fab makes a solid manifold. i bougth his ramhorn. it wasnt completely equal length, but pretty close. its much better than the log mani i had previously, and his welds are very solid. its hard to beat it for the price.
the zex cam is hot for boost too, im sure it will help you realize your power goals on a few psi less and with a more aggressive powerband
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This question depends if you on pump gas or race gas. On pump gas to make a lot of power (350whp) your going to need a very efficient turbo setup and you will need to spend a **** load of money on headwork. It will also depend on your tuners capabilities. If it's race gas then 400+ shouldn't be a problem with decent headwork and a good turbo setup. For the bottom end rods/pistons should be fine. I'd look into the gt-series turbo since they are very efficient and spool really well, but they are spendy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen a number of stock head D16 crack 400 whp off T04E compressors. Just takes a little sorting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ohh not saying they cant make that much, its just if you port the head you canr each 400 wayyyyy easier or any whp after that
ohh not saying they cant make that much, its just if you port the head you canr each 400 wayyyyy easier or any whp after that
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
cc-fab makes a solid manifold. i bougth his ramhorn. it wasnt completely equal length, but pretty close. its much better than the log mani i had previously, and his welds are very solid. its hard to beat it for the price.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't be worried about totally equal length, it's equal flow that get's performance. To get the d16 to that power some minor head work and the zex cam are going to go a long way in making it more efficient.
I'm going to use eagle/wiseco and ARP head studs in my car, and I'm going to try and get 300whp off an Evo 8 turbo. Should be easy enough, and it'll boost fast. GL
cc-fab makes a solid manifold. i bougth his ramhorn. it wasnt completely equal length, but pretty close. its much better than the log mani i had previously, and his welds are very solid. its hard to beat it for the price.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't be worried about totally equal length, it's equal flow that get's performance. To get the d16 to that power some minor head work and the zex cam are going to go a long way in making it more efficient.
I'm going to use eagle/wiseco and ARP head studs in my car, and I'm going to try and get 300whp off an Evo 8 turbo. Should be easy enough, and it'll boost fast. GL
if this helps here is my dyno
running a precision sc50 with a worked head ( i think the head job rather sucks based on the dyno)
3 inch dp - exhaust and a ram horn manifold made by silly sohc on these boards
comparing it to this dyno
spool times are pretty close IMO, but after the crossover his head continues to flow alot better than mine.
I bought my head for like 250 bucks and it was already worked on, so i really have no idea who did it
running a precision sc50 with a worked head ( i think the head job rather sucks based on the dyno)
3 inch dp - exhaust and a ram horn manifold made by silly sohc on these boards
comparing it to this dyno
spool times are pretty close IMO, but after the crossover his head continues to flow alot better than mine.
I bought my head for like 250 bucks and it was already worked on, so i really have no idea who did it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93boost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of head work exactly?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just tell the guy that works on it that it needs to flow at least 450whp. I forget how that translate into CFM, but if he's good he'll know.
Contact Dave at Headgames, he'll make it work.
Just tell the guy that works on it that it needs to flow at least 450whp. I forget how that translate into CFM, but if he's good he'll know.
Contact Dave at Headgames, he'll make it work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ohh not saying they cant make that much, its just if you port the head you canr each 400 wayyyyy easier or any whp after that</TD></TR></TABLE>
Meh. I've seen 425 out of T04E at 32 psi. Right at or past that, hell yeah, she needs thorough massaging.
The two biggest problems hitting 400 on a D16 are going to be:
1) Ignition. Due to smaller bore, power-wise, you're going to hit the sort of charge densities that require a stronger spark to ignite waaaay before the apples to oranges comparo of what when and where you upgrade B-series ignitions.
2) Ignition. Getting timing dialled in without pitching a headgasket. Not that it's that big of a problem, but compared to the fluent B-series knowledge out there, and some of the D-series guys acting all mystical and **** about big power pumpgas tunes, there's a lot of room for error if you don't know what you're doing.
Meh. I've seen 425 out of T04E at 32 psi. Right at or past that, hell yeah, she needs thorough massaging.
The two biggest problems hitting 400 on a D16 are going to be:
1) Ignition. Due to smaller bore, power-wise, you're going to hit the sort of charge densities that require a stronger spark to ignite waaaay before the apples to oranges comparo of what when and where you upgrade B-series ignitions.
2) Ignition. Getting timing dialled in without pitching a headgasket. Not that it's that big of a problem, but compared to the fluent B-series knowledge out there, and some of the D-series guys acting all mystical and **** about big power pumpgas tunes, there's a lot of room for error if you don't know what you're doing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2) Ignition. Getting timing dialled in without pitching a headgasket. Not that it's that big of a problem, but compared to the fluent B-series knowledge out there, and some of the D-series guys acting all mystical and **** about big power pumpgas tunes, there's a lot of room for error if you don't know what you're doing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just because i have a wizard tune my **** doesnt mean anything. But i agree along with head limiting anything past 400
2) Ignition. Getting timing dialled in without pitching a headgasket. Not that it's that big of a problem, but compared to the fluent B-series knowledge out there, and some of the D-series guys acting all mystical and **** about big power pumpgas tunes, there's a lot of room for error if you don't know what you're doing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just because i have a wizard tune my **** doesnt mean anything. But i agree along with head limiting anything past 400
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my question is how much is the average cost for a full port job?
and how the hell are you selling a set of arias pistons for 150 lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Full port jobs have a huge range, usally between $600-$1200.
The pistons are out-of-box, installed, but removed and never fired (at this point I would take any decent offer, lol, I have no use for them). I bought a built block, and tore it down to rebuild it for turbo. I just wanted the rods, and it was machined to work with them already.
and how the hell are you selling a set of arias pistons for 150 lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Full port jobs have a huge range, usally between $600-$1200.
The pistons are out-of-box, installed, but removed and never fired (at this point I would take any decent offer, lol, I have no use for them). I bought a built block, and tore it down to rebuild it for turbo. I just wanted the rods, and it was machined to work with them already.



