It has come to my attention, that there is some "concern" over my engine build.
I have recieved a couple of "interesting" private messages from members here ranging from accusations of "falsefying dyno figures" to "settling arguements" here.
Honestly, I would have never considered myself anything special worth arguing over. Since quite a few messages were sent to me, I decided to post this topic to get it all out on the table so that all of us here including myself, can learn and inprove the H22 platform.
Let me start by saying, I am not a "god" as some members claim I portray myself as. I hope I have never come off as arrogant or cocky. To those who think so, please accept my appology.

SO... moving on, here is my current set-up:



Car: 1990 Accord 4 door LX

Engine Block: '93 H22a "bored and stroked" to 2.44ltrs of displacement built by Collective Racing. Custom 98mm Crank, 89mm Darton sleeves, Crower Pro-billet rods, 12/1 compression 89mm JE pistons, Prodrive oil pump, ATR crank pulley, manual timing belt tensioner conversion, ARP main studs.

Cylinder head: Portwork by Collective Racing, Web Cams camshafts (89/267), Web Cams springs and Titainium retainers, ITR LMAs, 50mm TWM ITBs, Hondata intake manifold gasket, RC engineering 440cc Fuel injectors, STR cam seal, STR cam gears, RMF 4-1 header, ARP head studs, Cometic head gasket.

Transmission: T2T4, prodrive 4.7 FD, carbon synchros

Misc: NGK wires, NepTune engine management, RMF 3" mandrel bent exaust

With all of my specs posted, I will tell you that my engine is old (56K+ miles). So just starting over with a fresh build would be a good improvement itself, but let go deeper than that...

I was asked in a PM, what the weak point of my build is. I would have to answer that it is my head porting. For what it is worth, I ported my own head. All I did was clean up the bowl area and smooth out the casting flaws. That is it. No re-shaping was done or flowbench testing.

Then next "flaw" I would say is how heavy the Crower Pro Billet rods are. These are very "beefy" and a lighter set would have worked better. Same can be said for the JE pistons I am running.

These are just a couple of things that are obvious to me. Lets here your input.

 

Whoever questions you is gay..........
Your build is great though - one of a kind no doubt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKINGPin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whoever questions you is gay..........
</TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed, that guy was a tool.

subscribe to thread.

 

yea i saw that kids redic post...yea those crower rods are heavy...are you planning on cracking it open soon or just planning for the future...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CGags13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i saw that kids redic post...yea those crower rods are heavy...are you planning on cracking it open soon or just planning for the future...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I originally intended to run Nitrous on this engine... A 200 shot progressive to be more specific, that is why I have such heavy duty rods and pistons in this engine. I just never wanted to blow it up. LOL.

I need to fix a head gasket issue, but this engine is planned to go into my EG and get its shot of nitrous. I am building a new improved version that should make a better power curve.

 

Brush off those haters , to you for the H-builds.

 

the haters are just jealous. Most don't have a car or just a single cam with big dreams.


PS- I still want to know about your modified H22 manifold

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SteveoBA8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brush off those haters , to you for the H-builds.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so true. you're an inspiration to all us big block H tuners. thank you and keep up the good work!!

 

I don't mind the "haters". What I do mind is nasty PM's sent to me unsolicited. I thought maybe there was some truth to bettering this set-up to make even more power. So I am hoping that a good topic of discussion would come out of this.


Modified by 2point6 at 3:05 PM 2/14/2006

 

To start over with the new engine, I have made some changes that should work really well.

The new set up is coming together really nice. The new crank was pictured and posted a while back by Rick Solis. I am using a modified F23 crank that will utilize Titainium "B" series rods and a super light set of 12/1 comp Pistons. The bore will also be increased from 89mm to a Benson's 90mm sleeved solid deck block.
As far as head changes, I will be running a much larger set of Web Cams that I won't diclose yet and this will mate nice to the New Vance and Hines head I just got back. I am looking for closer to the 300WHP mark.

 

out of all the things you have been through building your motor. What would be the best advice you could give as far as what to expect??

Also what is a T2T4 from?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't mind the "haters". What I do mind is nasty PM's sent to me unsolicited. I thought maybe there was some truth to bettering this set-up to make even more power. So I am hoping that a good topic of discussion would come out of this.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, you took my suggestion i was going to post of lighter pistons/rods...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roller3804 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">out of all the things you have been through building your motor. What would be the best advice you could give as far as what to expect??

Also what is a T2T4 from?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tough question... I would say, make sure you get what you pay for. Before I started building engines myself, I had another company build one for me. I payed for something, but got another. After tearing down that blown engine, I learned a thing or two and started doing thing myself.

That is the first thing...

The second thing is, get a good port/valve job done by someone who knows the H22 head. Building the bottom end is relatively easy, just make sure you plan wisely. If you build it for nitrous like I did, don't expect to make world record HP from it knowing it wasn't built for NA only. If you build for NA do it 100% without cutting corners. There is a difference from a nitrous build to an all out NA build. IMO.

BTW, The T2T4 trans is out of the Accord SIR-t

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tough question... I would say, make sure you get what you pay for. Before I started building engines myself, I had another company build one for me. I payed for something, but got another. After tearing down that blown engine, I learned a thing or two and started doing thing myself.

That is the first thing...

The second thing is, get a good port/valve job done by someone who knows the H22 head. Building the bottom end is relatively easy, just make sure you plan wisely. If you build it for nitrous like I did, don't expect to make world record HP from it knowing it wasn't built for NA only. If you build for NA do it 100% without cutting corners. There is a difference from a nitrous build to an all out NA build. IMO.

BTW, The T2T4 trans is out of the Accord SIR-t</TD></TR></TABLE>

thank you for the insight

What do you think of the carbon syncros and 4.7FD?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roller3804 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you think of the carbon syncros and 4.7FD?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

How high can you "safely" rev your engine?

 

hey, what do you mean exactly about cutting corners, right now im building my bottom end i have had it honed and hot tanked, and when my rods come in im putting in eagle h-beam rods with a set of type-s pistons...i only plan on puttin a 75 shot on it but what esle would you suggest i get done so it doesn't blow. **note havent touched the head yet**

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How high can you "safely" rev your engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used to rev it to 8800 RPM, but power falls of after 7500RPM. Shifting higher was only done to fall back to a desired RPM point. This wasn't a huge benifit however...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The new set up is coming together really nice. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for posting your info! Will your new engine be a daily driver, or mainly for races? Are your "comp pistons" those strutted/boxxed weiscos that I've read about here? Is your B rod a shelf length, or is the whole rod/piston package custom? Good luck with the new engine, I hope it meets your power goals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BergRacing21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey, what do you mean exactly about cutting corners, right now im building my bottom end i have had it honed and hot tanked, and when my rods come in im putting in eagle h-beam rods with a set of type-s pistons...i only plan on puttin a 75 shot on it but what esle would you suggest i get done so it doesn't blow. **note havent touched the head yet**</TD></TR></TABLE>

IMO, I think the factory rods have better tolerances than Eagle. If you add the aftermarket rods, you still have a cast piston to worry about which becomes the weak point. My suggestion is to add ARP rod bolts to the factory rods and have them resized to a factory spec. Have the small end bushed to accept the free floating wrist pin of the type S piston. Shot peening is good insurance as well. Stock rods will handle your 75 shot very well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks for posting your info! Will your new engine be a daily driver, or mainly for races? Are your "comp pistons" those strutted/boxxed weiscos that I've read about here? Is your B rod a shelf length, or is the whole rod/piston package custom? Good luck with the new engine, I hope it meets your power goals.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This engine will also be a daily driver like my current engine with weekend racing.

The pistons will be of the strutted type you mentioned. The rods will be a Custom length and I am sure it will prove to have gains over what I have now. We will see...

 

Maybe this is a little ot but your 1/4 mile time does not reflect your 260hp right???

 

i would say the accord chassis limited his time a bit....plus elevation may have been an issue

the new plans sound good scott...any public cfm numbers on the head??

 

I'm really liking the new plans scott, big

Keep us updated, and lets see some pics of this ish!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would say the accord chassis limited his time a bit....plus elevation may have been an issue
??</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah but I think he ran that time with 248 hp