Chassis Certification Questions.
I've been getting mixed answers and just don't want to be unprepared or spend excess time or money doing unecessary things so, I need a few things cleared up. Thanks in Advance.
1). If a car is trapping 135+ but, is not in the single digits does the chassis have to be cert'd?
2). Where in DE, MD or southern PA/NJ can I get a chassis cert'd. Cost?
3) If using OEM seats do they have to be braced via a bracket by the rear cross bar?
4) What are reasons some of you have failed a chassis cert. (Tips, tricks etc. are appreciated).
I'll be converting my 8pt. to a 10pt. by the end of the month and am trying to get things cleared up. A reputable welder will be doing the welding btw. Thanks again
Phil
1). If a car is trapping 135+ but, is not in the single digits does the chassis have to be cert'd?
2). Where in DE, MD or southern PA/NJ can I get a chassis cert'd. Cost?
3) If using OEM seats do they have to be braced via a bracket by the rear cross bar?
4) What are reasons some of you have failed a chassis cert. (Tips, tricks etc. are appreciated).
I'll be converting my 8pt. to a 10pt. by the end of the month and am trying to get things cleared up. A reputable welder will be doing the welding btw. Thanks again
Phil
1. I am pretty sure 9.99 or 135 is looked at as the same (either or, or both) so I would say yes.
2. I had mine certified at Capitol Raceway in MD, I would say find the closest NHRA track to you. It costs like 75 or 100 bucks.
3. I didn't even have seats in mine. I think that their only concern is the cage. That is something that you will have to worry about at tech inspection.
4. You won't fail just make sure that it is built within spec of the NHRA rule book.
2. I had mine certified at Capitol Raceway in MD, I would say find the closest NHRA track to you. It costs like 75 or 100 bucks.
3. I didn't even have seats in mine. I think that their only concern is the cage. That is something that you will have to worry about at tech inspection.
4. You won't fail just make sure that it is built within spec of the NHRA rule book.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been getting mixed answers and just don't want to be unprepared or spend excess time or money doing unecessary things so, I need a few things cleared up. Thanks in Advance.
1). If a car is trapping 135+ but, is not in the single digits does the chassis have to be cert'd?
2). Where in DE, MD or southern PA/NJ can I get a chassis cert'd. Cost?
3) If using OEM seats do they have to be braced via a bracket by the rear cross bar?
4) What are reasons some of you have failed a chassis cert. (Tips, tricks etc. are appreciated).
I'll be converting my 8pt. to a 10pt. by the end of the month and am trying to get things cleared up. A reputable welder will be doing the welding btw. Thanks again
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. No you don't need a chassis cert to run 135mph but if you are going to compete in NHRA Sport FWD it will be required. A basic rule book chassis certification will allow you to run into the 8.50s...
2. I don't know exactly what division that is but im sure if you searched and asked around you can find a chassis certification team member who will be willing to come look at your car.. Usual cost for inspection and certification is $75 dollar (division 7 California) but can very. That's without including mileage charges the inspector may ask for him to come inspect the car...If you fail it mileage and $30 dollars for just the inspection
3. Using OEM seat is fine as long as the rear of the seat rest against the harness bar..
4. There is no tricks or tips... and i hope you don't try to hide something... its your safety on the line at the end. Just follow the book... Best thing to do is call the inspector and ask him exactly what is needed.. That way when he looks at it.. there is no problem...
Hope that helps...
Modified by Six Sigma Racing at 10:32 PM 2/12/2006
1). If a car is trapping 135+ but, is not in the single digits does the chassis have to be cert'd?
2). Where in DE, MD or southern PA/NJ can I get a chassis cert'd. Cost?
3) If using OEM seats do they have to be braced via a bracket by the rear cross bar?
4) What are reasons some of you have failed a chassis cert. (Tips, tricks etc. are appreciated).
I'll be converting my 8pt. to a 10pt. by the end of the month and am trying to get things cleared up. A reputable welder will be doing the welding btw. Thanks again
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. No you don't need a chassis cert to run 135mph but if you are going to compete in NHRA Sport FWD it will be required. A basic rule book chassis certification will allow you to run into the 8.50s...
2. I don't know exactly what division that is but im sure if you searched and asked around you can find a chassis certification team member who will be willing to come look at your car.. Usual cost for inspection and certification is $75 dollar (division 7 California) but can very. That's without including mileage charges the inspector may ask for him to come inspect the car...If you fail it mileage and $30 dollars for just the inspection
3. Using OEM seat is fine as long as the rear of the seat rest against the harness bar..
4. There is no tricks or tips... and i hope you don't try to hide something... its your safety on the line at the end. Just follow the book... Best thing to do is call the inspector and ask him exactly what is needed.. That way when he looks at it.. there is no problem...
Hope that helps...
Modified by Six Sigma Racing at 10:32 PM 2/12/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Six Sigma Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. No you don't need a chassis cert to run 135mph but if you are going to compete in NHRA Sport FWD it will be required.
Modified by Six Sigma Racing at 10:32 PM 2/12/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I was looking for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Six Sigma Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
4. There is no tricks or tips... and i hope you don't try to hide something... its your safety on the line at the end. Just follow the book... Best thing to do is call the inspector and ask him exactly what is needed.. That way when he looks at it.. there is no problem... </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm defiantely not trying to hide anything. I was leaning more towards tips like "Leave the carpet, seats and dash out/in etc." Basically ease of inspection tips.
Thanks.
Phil
1. No you don't need a chassis cert to run 135mph but if you are going to compete in NHRA Sport FWD it will be required.
Modified by Six Sigma Racing at 10:32 PM 2/12/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I was looking for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Six Sigma Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
4. There is no tricks or tips... and i hope you don't try to hide something... its your safety on the line at the end. Just follow the book... Best thing to do is call the inspector and ask him exactly what is needed.. That way when he looks at it.. there is no problem... </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm defiantely not trying to hide anything. I was leaning more towards tips like "Leave the carpet, seats and dash out/in etc." Basically ease of inspection tips.
Thanks.
Phil
there is a chassis certification guy here in Norristown area. send a pm to 2.0coupe he might still have his number. im not sure how far he is willing to travel to cert. one car though. i do know he makes trips up to Vanishing Point Racecars, in telford, but he does more than one car at a shot. you might also be able to check on NHRA website for chassis certification around your area.
I can get you the name and number of the guy that just certed mine. It cost me 105 for the cert.
They inspect the welds and use a machine to test the wall thickness of the tubing.
They inspect the welds and use a machine to test the wall thickness of the tubing.
hey phil, there is a guy that certs chassis in MD his last name is wiggins, i think it is larry wiggins. when i get my roll bar put in this weekend ill ask the guys at Rhodes.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey phil, there is a guy that certs chassis in MD his last name is wiggins, i think it is larry wiggins. when i get my roll bar put in this weekend ill ask the guys at Rhodes. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool. He's probbaly the closest to me as well. I also heard that US13 dragway has a guy there in mid March doing them for $100 ea.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
They inspect the welds and use a machine to test the wall thickness of the tubing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you have to have the complete interior out of the car?
Cool. He's probbaly the closest to me as well. I also heard that US13 dragway has a guy there in mid March doing them for $100 ea.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
They inspect the welds and use a machine to test the wall thickness of the tubing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you have to have the complete interior out of the car?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Did you have to have the complete interior out of the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes for the cage install I removed everything.
Did you have to have the complete interior out of the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes for the cage install I removed everything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes for the cage install I removed everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine already has the 8pt. and the interior back in so, Dash and front half interior is all that's coming out(welding blankets in the rear). I was speaking of during the inspection.
Phil
Yes for the cage install I removed everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine already has the 8pt. and the interior back in so, Dash and front half interior is all that's coming out(welding blankets in the rear). I was speaking of during the inspection.
Phil
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Mine already has the 8pt. and the interior back in so, Dash and front half interior is all that's coming out(welding blankets in the rear). I was speaking of during the inspection.
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had mine inspected before I picked the car up from the shop. He came to the shop and did the inspection.
Mine already has the 8pt. and the interior back in so, Dash and front half interior is all that's coming out(welding blankets in the rear). I was speaking of during the inspection.
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had mine inspected before I picked the car up from the shop. He came to the shop and did the inspection.
Call the Northeast Division NHRA office at 323-215-2558 (Philly area). They can give a name and number of the closest chassis inspector, or dates and times when they will have someone near you.
It's ok to have the interior back in for the inspection. But keep in mind that they will need to see how the cage is attached, etc. So they might have to pull up carpet, etc. If interior is out, leave it out until after the cert. Makes it easier.
It's ok to have the interior back in for the inspection. But keep in mind that they will need to see how the cage is attached, etc. So they might have to pull up carpet, etc. If interior is out, leave it out until after the cert. Makes it easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Call the Northeast Division NHRA office at 323-215-2558 (Philly area). They can give a name and number of the closest chassis inspector, or dates and times when they will have someone near you.
It's ok to have the interior back in for the inspection. But keep in mind that they will need to see how the cage is attached, etc. So they might have to pull up carpet, etc. If interior is out, leave it out until after the cert. Makes it easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you very much
. I'll be giving them a call.
Another question:
What articles of clothing are required(other than obvious helmet and Jacket) for a car going 10.50's @ 135+? I've been told that I'll need a neck collar at that e.t./speed but, on NHRA's site it just says nothing about anything else unitl 9.99.
Phil
It's ok to have the interior back in for the inspection. But keep in mind that they will need to see how the cage is attached, etc. So they might have to pull up carpet, etc. If interior is out, leave it out until after the cert. Makes it easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you very much
. I'll be giving them a call. Another question:
What articles of clothing are required(other than obvious helmet and Jacket) for a car going 10.50's @ 135+? I've been told that I'll need a neck collar at that e.t./speed but, on NHRA's site it just says nothing about anything else unitl 9.99.
Phil
hey phil, do they require a comp liscense at 135? if so i would assume at that point, you would need to follow the 9.99 index rules, but i am not a nhra tech so i wouldnt know.
he hee i need to either loose 40 pounds or buy a new jacket. i have had one hanging in my closet for forever, do they have a date tag like the harnesses?
he hee i need to either loose 40 pounds or buy a new jacket. i have had one hanging in my closet for forever, do they have a date tag like the harnesses?
From my understanding if you plan on running NDRA or NHRA and you trap over 135 you have to have a 10 point cage and it has to be certified. Thats what NDRA tech told us and they are following NHRA rules basically!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i knew about the cage, but wasnt sure if you needed the 9.99 comp liscense or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm still not sure
I'm still not sure
We are planning a certification day at our shop. Trying to get enough people together and have someone come out and inspect all the cars in just one day. Trying to put together a list and a day for when everyone is available. We have about six now and need a few more. Just let me know by IM or call at 410-861-8606. We are in Central MD near Baltimore if that work for you or anyone else. Thanks
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