What oil weight do you track guys like to run in your ITR? I have always used Mobil 1 5W30 in the ITR, but I have a friend who's really into the track that recommends using Mobil 1 15W50 (he uses it in his BMW). Anyone have experience with this or any other oil weights that work well at the track? I've heard normal oil weights just don't protect your engine as well. Obviously I would only be using 15W50 in the summers, and then changing back to 5W30 for the winter.

 

Repeat after me:

Hondas are not BMW's. BMW's are not Hondas.

I own both. 15W-50 into my E30 M3, and 5W-30 or 10W-30 into my ITR.

Warren

 

10W-30 for me

 

Yes, I understand that Hondas and BMWs are different.

What makes 15W-50 bad for ITRs? On the Mobil 1 site they say that 15W-50 is for "high-performance cars" and "hot-running or heavily loaded vehicles and high-tech imported cars". That seems to describe an ITR to me.

 

I would trust the car manual before I would trust oil company blurb.

 

5w40 which normally what is used in most touring Honda's in Europe and Japan but there race spec oils. Not just your avg. run of the mill kind.

 

5W30, just like my owner's manual tells me - on the track and on the street. Full synthetic, because of its greater resistance to thermal breakdown.

 

The Euro M5 uses 10W60 !!!!

 

That is wild I guess it uses some potent stuff for race days.
But then again those engines make some sweet power especailly the Alpina and Hartage verisons.

 

a friend of mine uses Mobil Delvac 5w40 (it's made for diesel engines and high endurance) so far he's had no problems. I'm looking at using that if all works out well.


brought that topic back up...

 

Wow! Why are old topics keep coming back lately?

FYI. I use Castrol RS Syntec 10W-60 at the track, and a lot of track Euro ITRs too.

 

We use 20w50 in our SPU Civic with ITR swap for the track...we tried 5w30 but we'd be pitting a lot more times then we really needed to durring long enduros...with 20w50, we run out of gas before oil...much better if you ask me!!

 

I would never use Mobil 1 XwXX at the track.

Chris - who wonders where these year old topics come from!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would never use Mobil 1 XwXX at the track.

Chris - who wonders where these year old topics come from!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why????

 

I burn 1 quart of Schaeffer's 10w30 per (approximately) 100 track miles. (this year = 300 track miles + 6000 street miles)

I burnt (last year) 2.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30 in 88 track miles.

I have burnt Mobil 1 5w30 AND 10w30 like a champ on the street - at least a quart every 3000 miles, if not more.

I have NEVER burnt any Schaeffer's (or any non-synthetic, or castrol GTX, all 5 and 10w30's) 10w30 on the street.

When I drained my oil (even after adding 2.5 quarts throughout the day) last year, it was BLACK and very very thin. (this was mobil 1 5w30) My drains of m1 (10 and 5w) have always been like this - very very thin, very black.

I refuse to pay 3-5$/quart for oil that can't stand up to the rigors of daily driving, let alone track driving when there are much better alternatives out there.

 

Well...I think you may be misaking longevity for effectiveness...though the organic oil you may use doesn't burn as fast or get dirty as fast, it also doesn't have the same lubricity as Mobil 1 does, regardless of which organic you use.

I would preffer to change my oil twice as often and double the life of my piston rings and moving components, not to mention hp from a reduced frictional coefficient.

The only basic difference between organic and synthetic is equally sized molecules, not so much in the formulation. So, the similarities between synthetics can vary widely, so I guess it's just a matter of prefference. I personally happen to be a proponent of Mobil1, we use it on our race car with no problems, it's all a matter of using the correct weight, in our case, for the track, we use a 20w50, which for most any endurance type race, you should be using a thicker oil. We burn any 5w30 indiscriminately, regardless of who makes it, that's why we use 20w50, I guess we've just had better luck with Mobil1 than the rest, not to mention being one of the cheapest and easiest to get synthetics out there...

On a side note, you should try running 5w30 on the street rather than 10w30, not that there is any difference once it warms up, but for startup, you'd rather the thinner oil to circulate faster. Though I guess it really doens't matter....that's just my paranoia talking...

Again, just my opinion....

Later,
Aj

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type-R 940 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What makes 15W-50 bad for ITRs? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont know the real reason, but it could be because our oil pump cant handle something as thick as a 50 weight, or it could be because our engines have less gaps between the parts, so a 50 weight would have trouble lubing certain parts. I wouldn't put it in your car.

 

Not necesarily bad...just innapropriate for a street car, so I guess more unnecesary, and not as efficient is a better explanation than simply "bad".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aaj23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well...I think you may be misaking longevity for effectiveness...though the organic oil you may use doesn't burn as fast or get dirty as fast, it also doesn't have the same lubricity as Mobil 1 does, regardless of which organic you use.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was not comparing dino and synthetic oil, simply stating that mobil 1 was the ONLY oil I have ever used that didn't hold up. Simply put: to burn 2.5 quarts of oil in 100 miles (approximately 6 sessions of 20 minutes each) is totally unacceptable, especially when other synthetics (at a fraction of the cost too) burn much less during the same time frame.

ALSO... sythetics are beneficial for longer drain intervals. 3000 miles between changes of dino oil used to show that the oil was starting to wear thin, but Mobil 1, at 5 times (or so) the price of a decent dino oil, wearing very thin at 3000 street driven miles? unacceptable in my book.

It didn't last and it couldn't be very effective burning at that rate.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would preffer to change my oil twice as often and double the life of my piston rings and moving components, not to mention hp from a reduced frictional coefficient.

The only basic difference between organic and synthetic is equally sized molecules, not so much in the formulation. So, the similarities between synthetics can vary widely, so I guess it's just a matter of prefference. I personally happen to be a proponent of Mobil1, we use it on our race car with no problems, it's all a matter of using the correct weight, in our case, for the track, we use a 20w50, which for most any endurance type race, you should be using a thicker oil. We burn any 5w30 indiscriminately, regardless of who makes it, that's why we use 20w50, I guess we've just had better luck with Mobil1 than the rest, not to mention being one of the cheapest and easiest to get synthetics out there...

On a side note, you should try running 5w30 on the street rather than 10w30, not that there is any difference once it warms up, but for startup, you'd rather the thinner oil to circulate faster. Though I guess it really doens't matter....that's just my paranoia talking...

Again, just my opinion....

Later,
Aj</TD></TR></TABLE>

The 10w30 I use has the same almost the same Cold Cranking Viscosity as your usual 5w30s. I'm pleasantly suprised by this oil.....

I also would not use a 50weight in my car. I am very hesitant to use 15w40, let alone 50.

 

&lt;-------------------10w 30 Mobil 1 SS


All of your oil questions answered http://theoildrop.server101.co...m;f=1

 

Old topic back from the dead.

I ran 5W30 RedLine in the H3 car last time becuase my oil guy didn't have any 10W30 at the time. The engine ate a lot of it. I will stick with 10W30 RedLine.

 

This old chestnut.

I use Mobile 1 Tri Synthic 0w-40 in Summer and 0w-30 for Winter.

I'm just going to say, I beleive it's all down to how your car was run-in.
I change the Oil every 10,000 kms + all the filters. It NEVER uses ANY oil unless I take it to the Track. Then it only uses the smallest amount, 100mls, about a mouth full.

You be the Jury. 64,000 kms + 4 or 5 track days and counting. Still runs like the day I picked it up.

Goodluck.

 

Warren and Chris are on the right track. More frequent oil changes with a 5/10w30 (dino or synthetic, that's up to you and your budget) is better than standard interval with a 15w40, 5w50, 15w50. Mobil1 certainly isn't crap oil. Lower HTHS numbers than Amsoil, Redline, and Schaeffer for example, will subject it to burnoff in our B series'. Wear properties are very close to Amsoil in fact, but for ~$5/quart, it's not worth it since some need to add a quart or more as make up oil in an interval.

 

&lt;---- Motul 300V 15W50 synthetic

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I was not comparing dino and synthetic oil, simply stating that mobil 1 was the ONLY oil I have ever used that didn't hold up. Simply put: to burn 2.5 quarts of oil in 100 miles (approximately 6 sessions of 20 minutes each) is totally unacceptable, especially when other synthetics (at a fraction of the cost too) burn much less during the same time frame.
It didn't last and it couldn't be very effective burning at that rate.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You do make a good point, I suppose it depends on what kind of success you've had with it....as I said, everyone uses their car differently, in my case, I've had good success with some of their thicker oils.....