well i fix some of my problems to day.

1. fix the fuel pressure thing. when i turn my car off the fuel pressure would fall to 0 psi an it would be hard to start. so i went back an took the fuel pump out to see if there was the problem. an what do I find. the hose that connects the fuel pump to the fuel lines had a small slice in it. it was the hose clamp being to tight i think. so i replaced the hose an i good.

2. fixed the exhaust leak. just had to tighten up come bolts. fixed

3. When i picked up my motor from the builder,Jeff, he said all I have to do is go up on compesstion a few times an ill be good. no brake in required. so i was ok cool. did what he said about 10 times. put in gear at about 3500 rpms an moosh the gas. slow getting up to speed. but was all good. so i drove it like a wimp all yesterday an today. so i stopped by the shop an told him what I did and he said your good...now go drive it. so i pull out to the street an hit vtec. it was good. nice an strong. did that few times no smoke nothing. so i drove around later in the day an hit vtec again. well when i start to slow down i saw some smoke. whiteish/blue. so i did it few more time to see if it did it again. an it did. it only smokes when i go up in high RPMs 6-7k, then go back down. but it doesnt do it evertytime. so i wet back to the shop an told him what happen. he doesnt now what its doing that. he said something about the ring clearance. he told me just to keep driving it an see what happens. he told me not to baby it because it will just irritate it.

so thats where i em now. the car doest really bogg that much. every once in a while but nothing too big. you guys have any ideas or comments. i wanted to see about systhetic oil? im going to call him an ask when i can put that oil in. i heard its not go to use systhtic oil durring braking in. what I dont know.


comments.....

 

i herd not to use systhetic oil when breakin in.
ring gap could be the reason why its smoking if it what not gaped properly

 

Are you running lean? Head gasket sealed properly?

 

everyting should be good. i had the motor done ata shop

 

would lean make it smoke likwe that?

 

rich would make it smoke like that....

but most likely oil...too much oil getting in the compression chamber.

your rings are not sealing properly.

 

is there anything i can do?

 

my fuel millage has been super sucking. have a tank on got me under 100 miles. not to sure why? but i think i might have fixed that problem with the hole in the hose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DrivinVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there anything i can do?</TD></TR></TABLE>
stop beating the hell out of your car and let the rings seat. you need at least one to two thousand miles of normal easy everyday driving before everything will be ready to beat on.

 

they builder told me to just go up in compression a few times an ill be good. the only thing i got done for intenal work was rings, valve grinds and decking. also a new head gasket. an few other things, but nothing that would cause any problems.

also i think i might be running kind rich. i went threw a half of tank only got 96 miles. that isnt good. maybe im running rich? i thought black was running rich?

 

o yeah...i dont beat the hell out of my car...i drive i the way it was ment too.

 

bump

 

was your motor all apart so the guy could at least run a hone through the cylinders? I wouldnt just replace the rings without honing or else they wont seat correctly.

dont break in with synthetic either.

also double check your timing maybe that was neglected or not set right causing it to run rich.

as for a 2000 mile break in period that is just ridiculous. if ur rings havent seated by then youve got bigger probs. i used to be onboard with whole break in thing till i started working with my friends 1100hp dragster. they built a brand new motor threw it on the engine dyno, beat the **** out of it for a week and then raced it every weekend all summer. they dynoed it again before tearing it down and all was fine. only thing wrong was the vavle springs showed fatigue.

now im not saying go out and do that extreme but just give it a few hundred miles and your good to go. if it was built right then shouldnt be any probs.

 

ok ok ok. i em runnig rich as hell i think. like siad above, 1/2 tank an only got 98 miles. if running rich is the problem...then wouldnt it be black smoke?

 

yeah ur right black is usually rich, blue/white is usually oil.

did the block get honed or was this all done while the motor was in the car?

 

2000 miles is a good break in. as a registered honda technician i do know what im talking about. they do need time to seat. 1000 is fine but the motor has to see alot of constant driving. and building a race engine is a little different than building a streetable engine that honda designed to run for 200,000 miles. when it comes to breaking stuff in ive done enough installs to know what im talking about. check your oil consumption and check your coolant levels and let us know whats going on. if its just oil thats being burnt, then do a compression test and see if that checks out. there is an outside chance the headgasket is shot. you did say that was new as well.

 

oh yeah and
black smoke = rich
white smoke = coolant being burned
blue smoke = oil being burned
blue and white smoke = oil and coolant

 

you are you wrong on one thing. on the H-series motor its hard to hone the cylinder, H-series cylinder are FRM material. Not alot of machine shop will hone it because if the hone isnt perfect you're acutally going to ruin the cyclinder wall. I know that Porsche also run FRM block and they'll hone it for you but they'll charge you a arm and leg. I've worked on 2 H-series motor a couple D-series and B-Series and from my experience the H-Series does need a little Tender on the break in period especially if you have new rings.

On a new motor change your oil after 50miles because you have alot of metal shaving from the new break in. Try and get a Magnetic Plug and then change your oil again at 200 miles then 500 miles and then 1500 miles and then 3,000 miles. For break in period using cheap conventional oil is fine. you dont have to go fancy until after 3,000 miles.

 

i did get my motor honed when i got the new rings in. just thought i would threw this in. he dene honing on the H22 before. not mine but a friends. thats come good info. is alright if i change the oil at 130 or so. kind strapped on funds if u know what i mean.

 

yeah just change your oil as soon as you can just go pick up some cheap $6 for a 5 qt bottle at walmart with a cheap $2 filter. and run it for several miles and swith it out. thats what I do.

If your friend use the same honing stone that he hone your motor with on other motor like D-series and B-series. then you're going to have a problem with your rings not sealing right.
Here's a good thread about FRM https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=121765

 

im going to do it tomrrow

 

o yeah. this guy owns a machine shop. he knows it FRM sleeves. hes the one that told me. i already new thow.

 

i changed my oil today.

 

I personally would have changed my oil after the car had been running for about 10 mins... to get anything out that doesn't need to be there after the initial startup. I wouldn't do a 2000 mile break in either. Break in on the dyno is the best way to do it IMO. That way you can mess with your a/f so you KNOW if you're running lean/rich etc... and if you are running smoothly or if you're misfiring... blah blah blah... and then be able to fix those problems before it goes on the street.

Oh and to the guy who is a honda certified technician... that doesn't make me believe you any more than joe blow who works down the street at ford. I know a few "certified technicians" that I can talk circles around and I wouldn't come close to considering myself a top dawg in the industry by any means and much less take their advice as true and un-tainted knowledge because they are a certified honda technician.

I would personally be much more inclined to listen to someone who is a mechanical engineer or someone who really knows his physics and internal combustion engine theories.

Back to the topic at hand... what oil did you put in when you just changed your oil? Still got problems? Keep us updated.

 

doesnt matter if you take my advice or not. fact at hand i have built and helped build countless cars. everyday street cars, as well as hardcore race cars. if you dont want to listen to my advice there is a back button. however im still waiting to see what kinda oil consumption drivinvtec is having and im waiting to see some compression tests to prove my theory right.