I am guessing this is what happened. I was driving on the highway last night, and my oil light flashed on, and then my car died about 5 seconds later. We popped the hood, no oil. No hole int he block or nothing(thank god). But I think I spun a rod bearing. What would be the cause of this? I havnt driven it, its parked at my friends house now. I think my oil pump might be bad, could that cuase this?

Also, what is the best thing to do here, replace the rod bearings? I dont think it would be too difficult or costly. But I dont think I want do do the bearings myself, so how much should a shop charge me to replace them? 200 or so? What rod bearings do I use? Thanks for the help.

 

here's a little info... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=150807

 

So 88-89 rod bearings? Also how much of a pain in the *** is it to swap them out? And around how much should a shop charge me?

 

That's as clear as mud. One guy says D16A6 and the other says D16A1. They may be the same who knows.

 

Okay so my last question is how much should I be looking to spend to get this done. I called one shop and they told me i need a new motor, lol, and I called another and they said if its only the rod bearings 300 bucks or so. 300 is about what i expected, but. This sucks badly. That means I would have to take it easy on my car for a while till they break in, that is almost like telling me I can run my car forever with no gas. Its not happening, lol.

 

Okay I got the answers to all my other questions, but how difficult would this be to do it at your house or something? All you would have to do is like check out the rod bearing see if its broke for sure, and then pull the bottom part of the rod off, and put it on like that, or what? I am hoping i didnt mess the crank or the rod up.

 

I would suggest replacing all bearings and the crank thrust washers while the bottom end is apart. If oil starvation is what caused the rod bearing to spin, then all of the other bearings are likely damaged also. Did you hear knocking before or after the oil light came on?

Here is a Acura dealer near you that sells OEM Acura parts at a discounted price: http://www.gunnacura.com/ you should be able to get the entire set of bearings from them for around $150 (list price is about $220).

BTW, bearings are a bad place to try and save money, so make sure you only use OEM Honda bearings.

 

I called Acura earlier and theyt old me the price was 12.88 for one times eight. So
thats about 100 bucks there.

So what about changing them out, is it hard to do?

My freind heard a ticking before the oil light but. I am just aggrivated at myself for not paying attention to the oil.

 

changing the bearings is not all that hard, but it can be a pain.

i assume you'll change the bearings with the motor in the car? if that's the case, drain the oil, drop the oil pan, loosen the crank girdle and then loosen each connecting rod and replace the bearings.

you might as well do the main bearings and the thrust washers like someone above said.

i rebuilt my ZC using 88-89 teg bearings. these will work.

 

what exactly are thrust washers?

 

they are what keeps the crank from moving left to right while spinning. they can wear down after time...

oh and one thing to check is that the crank is not out of round from the bearing being spun. my crank was bad after it spun a bearing. a machine shop can check the crank for you if you give them the specs.




[Modified by breaka_1_9, 1:37 PM 3/26/2002]

 

Alright, I will. If the crank is rounded, can they machine it for you? Or you need a whole new crank? I got my d15 dx crank i could use, , lol

 

what happens is the crank becomes out of round, so the diameter of the crank is not the same all the way around and the diameter is smaller in certain areas.

if a crank becomes out of round, you need a new one.

 

Okay last question, would an idiot, like myself, lol, be able to notice if it is out of round? I can use an SI crank right? If so there are a few around here so I dont have to worry about that too much.

 

i had a machine shop check the crank for me since they were doing some work for me anyways. you would have to use a micrometer to check the roundness of the crank. i think you could do it with the right tools. a machine shop should be able to check out the crank for $50 or so.


not sure if you can use the SI crank. you probably want to do some research on this.

...this is when it sucks to have a ZC> i know, i've been there.

 

all honda bearings are color coded, just look at rod bearing and it should have a color on it, if i can remember its either brown or yellow

 

Was that price from Gunn Acura? List price for the rod bearings is only $10.50. I know Gunn Acura used to sell parts for about 25% less than retail, but maybe they don't anymore. Here is another place that has good prices on OEM Honda parts: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/home.htm

BTW, any D16A_ crank will work with the ZC, they are all identical.

 

I beg to differ on that! I posted this in the other linked rod bearing question posted up top here:

"This is to clear up for other people, I have been rebuilding a ZC for a freind of mine, and have had all the internals of a ZC and a D16 side by side sitting in my room. The rod ends are a full 1/8th of an inch apart from each other. Some people will claim that you can use D16 rods in a ZC engine, this is usually because they take it to a machine shop to be put together, and the shop will have to bore out the rod end to make it fit onto the ZC crank. If you don't want to beleive me I would suggest finding the specs in a manual, but I am telling you what I have learned from side by side comparison. "

I don't recall 100% if the main bearings are the same size (if I'm really bored I'll look later), if so you could use another crank and also the accompanying rods, but the ZC rods will only fit on a ZC crank, not any other D series! I would take a look at the crank, the whole reason my freind got the engine was a rod bearing was pounded out and it tore up one edge of the crank so badly that we had to track down a new crank. If I could have used D16 parts, seeing as I have several lying around, I would not have gone through the trouble to track aa ZC crank down. The only downside to having to try and take the crank out is that you have to remove the oil pump, as well as the tranmission to get it out. Then again, if you're going to replace main bearings and the thrust shims, I wouldn't do that with the transmission attached.

 

i went to a local parts shop in so cali and got a whole set of rod bearings for like 27 dollars.(asked for 89 integra ones on the box it said d16, ZC..they were also made in japan) ... put them in with my buddy.... its not that hard to do.. just dont forget to grease them up with some assembly lube


ohhhh and plastigauge them if this is the motor you plan on keeping for a while...

 

Plastiguage them? What does that do? We put them in today and the car is running but its still a little ticking noise(not sure what it is) coming from there.. I havnt driven it but maybe a mile. Gonna take it to school real easy tomorrow and then I am gonna run it in autoshop and ask my teacher what he thinks it is, the ticking.

 

plastigauge is a little thin strip that you place between the rod bearing and the crank journal... then you tq the rod bolts to spec loosen the bolts and check the gap between the journal and rod bearing all from how much the pastigauge has been smashed.... knowing this you can get the correct size rod bearings to ensure optimum oil "clearnence/usage" <!~ brain fart


anyone think i left something out or want to clarify stuff a little more...

some people say use RED rod bearings to let more oil through or what not...but im not too sure about that

 

I dont kinda get what it does..

Anyway, my car is still making a weird noise from like 3000 rpms and up.. I am not driving it hard or even far, put like 20 miles on it so far, does it need to break in, or what? I took it to a couple shops, they told me I need to take the rod out and get it resized, and it should be alright... Does that sound right or what? 20 bucks to get it resized..