Ok brand new to this so i guess bare with me please. Ok had a 96 Int-LS,SE and only put a freakin $45 intake and eibach sportline kit with 16" rims went to track and best run was 16.5 sec. That was back in the day, now I have 00 Int-ls with :

Unfortunately same intake
Skunk 2 intake manifold
Dc 4-1 headers ceramic coated
Apexi 2 1/2 inch cat back exuast (Turbo Ready later on)
Ecu chipped out
eibach sportline kit 4 suspension

and only got 16.3 sec at the track only got 3 runs but still 16.3 was my best. Going to track again this Friday so will post better runs if any. But still only 2 tenths where is my problem at people???

 

i would say the skunk2 manifold. no usable power in it due to for high end. dont really have power untill 5k and red at 7.

 

your problem is that its basically a STOCK b18b with bolt on's and a sk2 IM made really for high end power that a b18b really doesnt have.

sell those NA mods and put a turbo kit on (you can get a home made turbo kit for less then $1,250), then go to the track and then tell some numbers

 

yeah that manifold isnt gunna show gains on a stock b18b
turbo seems to be the best option

 

The intake, header, catback, and ecu all together probably gave you a little itty bit of HP. You're better off just learning to drive better. I've seen plenty of people getting 15.6-15.9s with just a CAI.

 

your driving skills, weather condition, 60ft, etc all plays a big role in your time. Ive seen stock ls run 15.4-15.6 all days.....its your 60ft that plays a huge role in the end......may wanna look into yours....

 

Like the people have said before me, that Skunk2 IM isn't really beneficial on your current setup. Also look into your driving skills, such as your 60 ft. to lower your times.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CNSK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your driving skills, weather condition, 60ft, etc all plays a big role in your time. Ive seen stock ls run 15.4-15.6 all days.....its your 60ft that plays a huge role in the end......may wanna look into yours....</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

go boost,dont waste youe money on NA shiet,waste of money in opionon or with all that money you spent you could of got a vtec head and got better results

 

show Us your time slip,
When i was bone stock I ran 15.7 all day long on a freakin crapy track ( luskville canada ) with very high atmospheric pression. Im sure you can do better than 16.3.
Wich Rpm do you launch? have you tried different rpm? Wich tire... so many factor. Tell us more.

 

http://www.team-integra.net/fo...30683

Read ALL of the post ( some are kinda long) and I think it might shed some light on why your so dissapointed? Actually, just look around on that site and read the diff FAQ's they have. Lots of great info.

Also, invest in some drag radials and work on launching. Your 60ft times are CRUICIAL.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CNSK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your driving skills, weather condition, 60ft, etc all plays a big role in your time. Ive seen stock ls run 15.4-15.6 all days.....its your 60ft that plays a huge role in the end......may wanna look into yours....</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is mostly true.. your driving is obviously playing a large part in it..
your 60 ft times with a fwd teg should be somewhere around 2.2-2.0 to yeild any decent 1/4 time. what speed are you trapping?
i ran a 14.6 in me 95 ls with thermal exhaust, 4-1 header, aem cai and b16 tranny.
my trap speed was 96 mph and 60 ft was 2.1.

give us some numbers or a pic of timeslip to figure out where the problem lies.
also as mentioned, the skunk2 IM is primarily made for higher rpm power.. which is clearly just not an option on a low revving 7000 rpm ls.

 

http://www.team-integra.net/fo...13444

This is a real good thread on how absolutely VITAL tuning is to a setup. In that thread, a guy got 26 WHEEL HORSEPOWER from tuning w/his i/h/e/c setup on his GSR.

Tryin to help ya out

 

Sounds about right for a bolt on ls.
Unless your getting some cams ditch the sk2 IM.

 

sounds like it could just be driver related.

Also, ditch the chipped ECU, it's hurting you more than anything.

http://www.team-integra.net/se...=1134

 

sounds like you put your money in the wrong parts.

u could've gotten an I/H/E and had your car dyno tuned, and probably would've been better than slapping random parts on it like "chipped ecus"

 

skun2k manifold is ur big problem. tkae it off go back to stock for more torque

 

get a set of cams that will make this setup
work

 

you should track down a GSR or B16 tranny allong with a lightweight flywheel and decent clutch and you will deffinatly improve your 1/4 mile time even with a B18B engine..

 

Boost isn't always the answer... ...it all depends on your goals for your car.
I'd say that your bad times might be due to lack of experience. Post up your timeslip and we can tell you what's wrong.

 

you should buy parts meant for the LS powerband, and not for a higher revving powerband. the skunk2 manifold is hurting you, and your header is 4 to 1, which is primarily used for top end gains. with the engine you have, you need to look for ways to gain more power/torque from the bottom end. you dont have v-tec and your head doesnt have the better flow rate like a v-tec head, therefore attempting to make power in that region without doing headwork is pointless. turbo or LSVTEC is your best bet for the power you want. if you dont wish to spend that kind of money, then nitrous will give you more bang for the buck than your current mods.

 

Yeah it looks like driving skills &gt; you.

What were your 60'? Track temp?

I managed a 15.6 out of my LS, practice makes perfect. Good luck next time.

 

Ok i see the points of everyone and greatly appreciated. I can see the opinion of it being the driver, but i only got 3 runs not enough to get a feel for it. 2/10/06 going to the track and getting there really early so i can get runs in. Anyway with all that done to the car how about getting:
F-rail/F-pump & regulator
Have money for cams but dunno
Clutch coming + Flywheel but really don't want to waste money 2 just break into the 15's

Reason 4 SK2 ITM cause i have Turbo 2 put on but slowly getting pieces 4 it.
Will get those Time slips in but how I post it on here, sorry still new 2 this.

 

all those parts were so i could throw on a turbo but slowly i have been looking at getting the Nitrous. Would a stage 2 clutch, flywheel, and fuel things help out even with what I have? And not really everyday racer (know how to save the engine life)but i know how 2 race my car but would Nitrous hurt my engine. Its the only car i got

 

You won't gain not even 1 horspower with a fuel rail and pump. However, since you are boosting later on, you are going to need a fuel pump before you do go boost.

Cams won't do you any good, if you are going turbo. Stock cams, or some stage 1's would be ideal. Plus, if you stick with the stock cams, you don't have to worry about upgrading the valvetrain.

Definitely get a good clutch if you are going to be running boost. Even a stage 1, will work wonders under boost compared to stock.

On nitrous, you can make a lot of power for your money. you spent $1250 for around 5 horsepower. You could spend $500 for a new NX wet kit, and make 50-75 more hp safely on your stock engine. You have to make sure that it is setup right, and the air/fuel mix is right, or you will destroy your engine. The only downfall to nitrous, from my experience, is that you can make like 10-12 runs before the bottle is empty, then its another 40 bucks. For someone who races their car as much as me, that's like 3 days worth. It also sucks to be racing a Camaro, and beating him, and half way through the race, the bottle runs out, and the Camaro pulls away from you.

So in the end, boost would be a better decision. Also with boost, you can make a lot more power than a 75 shot of n2o. With a stock LS tuned, you can make 275 whp reliably, with no problems. I've seen people push 300whp, but I wouldn't push it that hard, considering its your only car. Its all on the tune, and the quality of the parts being used.

But, if I were you, I'd save up all the parts for turbo, and put it on, and immediately go get it tuned.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loudassVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cams won't do you any good, if you are going turbo. Stock cams, or some stage 1's would be ideal. Plus, if you stick with the stock cams, you don't have to worry about upgrading the valvetrain.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


WTF!?! Cams won't do him any good?!? man you really don't know what you're talking about. Cams make the biggest difference on an LS motor whether N/A, Nitrous, or Turbo! you're talking to a guy who made 380whp with 62402's with a 1.8L LS on 93 octane gas and over 420whp on a 2.0 LS with 62404's!!! aggressive all motor cams on a turbo setup!!

and those people who are telling you to ditch the Skunk2 IM also don't know what they're talking about and probably have never even had a Skunk2 IM! Why in the world would you pick a STOCK LS IM over the SKUNK2?!? the stock LS IM has long runners made for low end power....meaning under 4k!! when you're running your car you obviously aren't under the 4k rpm range now are you? I would hope not!! the skunk2 was designed to give you gains from mid to high range.

now it is true that you're not utilizing the full potential of the Skunk2 IM. in order to utilize it's full potential you WILL NEED a set of decent cams. I would suggest getting at least some Crower 62402's...nothing less. 62403's if possible. If i remeber correctly, someone on here did a dyno test...LS w/skunk2 IM and 62402's vs. B16. the LS made more HP and TQ than the B16 throughout the entire power band.

Like someone else also said, what's probably hurting you the most is that chipped ECU which has maps that probably aren't even made for your setup. that and your 60 ft times are probably your biggest issues.