set cam gear back to zero and motor doesn't start anymore
Recently, I bought some cams and cam gears. On the intake side, the cam gear was set to change 3 degrees. i've had the cams installed for about 1 week and it ran fine.
Okay, here's the problem. I installed my intake manifold last night. I started the motor and let it run for a bit. everything seemed to be fine. this morning, i was doing a valve adjustment and decided to change the timing back to zero. Now when I start the car, it doesn't start. The crank does turn but the motor wouldn't start.
so i check to see if i get any spark. I took out the spark plug and put it into the spark plug wire. i then grounded it and had a buddy turn on the motor and there was no spark. i tried this on all for spark plugs and wire. i've checked all of my fuses and everything is fine.
anyone know what I should do? should i change my timing back to the 3 degrees that it was on?
Okay, here's the problem. I installed my intake manifold last night. I started the motor and let it run for a bit. everything seemed to be fine. this morning, i was doing a valve adjustment and decided to change the timing back to zero. Now when I start the car, it doesn't start. The crank does turn but the motor wouldn't start.
so i check to see if i get any spark. I took out the spark plug and put it into the spark plug wire. i then grounded it and had a buddy turn on the motor and there was no spark. i tried this on all for spark plugs and wire. i've checked all of my fuses and everything is fine.
anyone know what I should do? should i change my timing back to the 3 degrees that it was on?
Changing the intake cam gear setting won't affect the actual spark, only the timing of it. I would pull the dist. cap and see if the rotor and cap have good contacts.
Also check your coil and ignitor if possible on an ohm meter. I have heard that coils can test within spec and still be faulty tho. Any chance you have a friend with a dist. you can swap on to see if your problem lies there?
I always keep a spare spark plug in my tool kit so I can test for spark. Even in mid afternoon I could see it throwing the spark across the electrode.
Also, make sure the cam gears are at TDC when the crank pulley white line is at the lower cover pointer. You might have jumped time, but even if you did, there should still be spark.
Also check your coil and ignitor if possible on an ohm meter. I have heard that coils can test within spec and still be faulty tho. Any chance you have a friend with a dist. you can swap on to see if your problem lies there?
I always keep a spare spark plug in my tool kit so I can test for spark. Even in mid afternoon I could see it throwing the spark across the electrode.
Also, make sure the cam gears are at TDC when the crank pulley white line is at the lower cover pointer. You might have jumped time, but even if you did, there should still be spark.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JMod »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe he said to swap your buddies distributor on there, not the plugs & wires.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well he said he always kept spare plugs in his tool kit to check for spark. well, i didn't have any spare ones so i used my friends plug to see if i can get spark from his..
well he said he always kept spare plugs in his tool kit to check for spark. well, i didn't have any spare ones so i used my friends plug to see if i can get spark from his..
just tested out the coil and it might be the problem. it's reading around 8.2 ohms right now. the icm seems to be fine. i'm going to change over the coil from my friends car when he gets out of school to see if that works.
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