H22 in a 1990 acura integra??
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From: Midlothian, Virginia, United States
Im thinking about purchasing a 1990 acura integra but would like to do an H22 motor swap... is this possible and if so what will i need to buy to fit it to an integra or any info you may know about it??
any help would be much apreciated so thanks in advance
any help would be much apreciated so thanks in advance
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegG2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H22
B18c
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i tink not i dropped a JDM H22 SiR-S spec in my 97 4DR and with jus i/h/e and tunin on the dyno i put out 185whp with 149lb tq keepin up with an EG hatch w/ ls-vtec skunk2 im cai, headers, exhaust, fuel and ignition.....priceless
B18c
</TD></TR></TABLE>i tink not i dropped a JDM H22 SiR-S spec in my 97 4DR and with jus i/h/e and tunin on the dyno i put out 185whp with 149lb tq keepin up with an EG hatch w/ ls-vtec skunk2 im cai, headers, exhaust, fuel and ignition.....priceless
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegG2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H22
B18c
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nahh, almost every stock h22 in a Civic/Integra will destroy a GSR. Even mildly built GSR's can barely keep up with the stock h-double dueces. Hell, where I'm from a '98 Prelude with intake and exhaust was dead even with a GSR hatch. Plus, GSR's cost more. GSR complete swap = $3200 H22 complete swap = $2200. I say go for more power, more torque, for less money.
They don't make mounts for the h22 to go into a DA. Its a hard swap, but if you've got the time, and money, it'll pay off in the end. Check g2ic.com. There is a guy on there running one.
B18c
</TD></TR></TABLE>Nahh, almost every stock h22 in a Civic/Integra will destroy a GSR. Even mildly built GSR's can barely keep up with the stock h-double dueces. Hell, where I'm from a '98 Prelude with intake and exhaust was dead even with a GSR hatch. Plus, GSR's cost more. GSR complete swap = $3200 H22 complete swap = $2200. I say go for more power, more torque, for less money.
They don't make mounts for the h22 to go into a DA. Its a hard swap, but if you've got the time, and money, it'll pay off in the end. Check g2ic.com. There is a guy on there running one.
All things considered I would still take a B18c. Easier install. B18 will prety much drop in. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MichaelDelaney »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
have fun putting in the stock driveshafts (gen 2 Teg's or Accord halfshaft) straight and snapping them eventually.
the car understeers like a pig at the limit of cornering (worse than when you push a Teg with a Bseries even if they have been cornerweighted properly and you are using custom coilovers).
the performance aftermarket and swapability choices are nowhere near what is available for the Bseries.
you can overbore and resleeve a b18b to 2L and use a longer rod/piston pin relocation to get 1.58 r/s and rev to 9000 rpm very easily and make as much power for less cost without changing the tranny, ecu, engine mounts.
I can go on but I think we said it here before many times.
when you figure out what we are saying after owning it for a couple of years and seeing how much easier it is to drive the car with the B series in day in and day out, come back. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If all you want is VVVTAKK power go ahead, you will regret it. Just because it puts out the most power stock, doesn't mean it is the best choice. There is alot to consider.... H22
B18c
have fun putting in the stock driveshafts (gen 2 Teg's or Accord halfshaft) straight and snapping them eventually.
the car understeers like a pig at the limit of cornering (worse than when you push a Teg with a Bseries even if they have been cornerweighted properly and you are using custom coilovers).
the performance aftermarket and swapability choices are nowhere near what is available for the Bseries.
you can overbore and resleeve a b18b to 2L and use a longer rod/piston pin relocation to get 1.58 r/s and rev to 9000 rpm very easily and make as much power for less cost without changing the tranny, ecu, engine mounts.
I can go on but I think we said it here before many times.
when you figure out what we are saying after owning it for a couple of years and seeing how much easier it is to drive the car with the B series in day in and day out, come back. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If all you want is VVVTAKK power go ahead, you will regret it. Just because it puts out the most power stock, doesn't mean it is the best choice. There is alot to consider.... H22
B18c
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well its a hard task to pull off you should check out g2ic allthough there gonna tell you is not worth it. if you want to do the swap then do it its a OBDII swap so good luck with smog. wait till the end of the year and hasport is coming out with a k20 mount kit for the da might wanna think about that.
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