Hi fellow Honda-techers again.

My question would be the plugs on my OBD-1 conversion.

I have a OBD-2a engine, B18C4. My plans are to run the engine with OBD1 ECU (P72) and my orginal D16 engine harness alongsilde the Rywire VTEC subharness. I havent spent a lot of time comparing the OBD-0 and OBD-2a plugs because its nearly 0 farenheit out there.

How i would make the engine's component plugs work on my D16 harness? I will get a Rywire conversion kit.
-ECU OBD-0 -> OBD-1 jumper
-distributor adapter OBD-0 -> OBD-2a
-VTEC subharness with includes wires from ecu to vtec component plugs (Spool valve, oil pressure, knock sensor and IAB)

So 40% of my plugs are covered, but what about the rest 60%.

IAT
MAP
FAN SWITCH
COOLANT TEMP
TW SENSOR
TPS
EACV
ALTERNATOR
OIL PRESSURE

Are the wires/ plugs totally diffrent? Do i have to reroute many wires?

Tell me how you would/have do/done this.

Thank you, i appreciate it. Just ask if something is not cleared on my post.

 

Where have all original Honda-techers gone, who helped if someone asked?

Bump to the top.

 

I think all the plugs you mentioned are the same on both motors with the exception of hte alternator. And for the alt you have the option of just switcing over plugs OR switching over the unit from the alt to the other alt for the obdO plug to plug into. It's a direct switch.

BTW, Rywire did ALL my wiring.

 

Have ryan make you a harness...

or:

-convert alternator
-use vtec subharness
-wire the IAB yourself

Research the map sensor... apart from that, you should have very little problems hooking up he wiring.
Differences mainly are the placement and routing of some wires, like the reverse light wiring, o2 sensor wiring, oil pressure wiring, and some environmental crap. But that's minor stuff you'll figure out on the fly.

Ofcourse this does not include the re-pinning you'll have to do on the dizzy.

 

If you only purchased the ecu jumper/subharness/dizzy jumper...


IAT ---is the red and green wire on the stock crx harness (plugs up fine but may be short)

MAP ---needs to be extended from the firewall to the throlltebody (may reach)
FAN SWITCH --- was the 2 slip on connectors on the back of the block, now need to be relocated to the thermostat housing with a round plug.

COOLANT TEMP -- plugs right up
TW SENSOR --- its under the dizzy, red and green wires... stock crx harness plugs up
TPS -- should just plug right up
EACV --- should plug right up
ALTERNATOR -- plug type changes, just match positions, or call me if you get stuck, resolder this one!

OIL PRESSURE -- vtec oil press??? Thats on my vtec subharness....


If you car is a crx vtec, like the allready b16ed from the factory, I can make a ecu jumper that has the vtec, vtec oil, and kS allready in the harness so it wouldnt be on your pigtail

 

only thing i see might be injectors, if you are using the obd2 one or obd0. also plug for 4 wire o2 sensor

 

Thanks alot from the answers. I think the pros doesent hang around here 24/7.

Okay. So then it will be very easy if the plugs are the same. Apart the alternator plug. But i can change the plug and solder the connections.

Witch would be better, soldering or shrinkwrap?

The extensions wouldnt be a problem. Because i can take both harnesses into desk, and solder/ shrinkwrap them easily.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by droppedcrxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you car is a crx vtec, like the allready b16ed from the factory, I can make a ecu jumper that has the vtec, vtec oil, and kS allready in the harness so it wouldnt be on your pigtail </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ryan, my car isint factory fitted with B16. Its ED- chassis with D16A9 engine. So standard OBD-0 -&gt; OBD1 is fine. I remember that the IAB plug was in the VTEC subharness?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SETI20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But that's minor stuff you'll figure out on the fly.

Ofcourse this does not include the re-pinning you'll have to do on the dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm getting the distributor adapter on the same package from Rywire. OBD-0 to OBD-2a.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civickiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only thing i see might be injectors, if you are using the obd2 one or obd0. also plug for 4 wire o2 sensor</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, the injectors are only witch need to change.

YEEHAAA!!! Things are looking very good now! Thanks for the input, i appreciate it much! I still have some questions to ask from the wiring. Thats for sure, but now my questions needs are fulfilled.

 

4 wire o2 plug will be in the subharness... And yes, if you use the obd0 injectors, keep the inj box in place and just swap it all over...

If you use the obd1/2 you need to cut off the inj box, and solder all 5 wires together. And change out the clips. If you have obd1 inj, you can re-pin them, or you can dremmel the obd0 clips to fit the obd1 inj

Ryan

 

yes, solder and heatshrink.

the iab is in the vtec subharness, correct

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by droppedcrxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4 wire o2 plug will be in the subharness... And yes, if you use the obd0 injectors, keep the inj box in place and just swap it all over...

If you use the obd1/2 you need to cut off the inj box, and solder all 5 wires together. And change out the clips. If you have obd1 inj, you can re-pin them, or you can dremmel the obd0 clips to fit the obd1 inj

Ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would the type of injectors affect engine running? I think i'll do OBD-1 changeover to the injectors aswell. All components in my engine are OBD-2a type.

 

Ok, thats fine, just follow the instructions above, and your golden, but yes you could always use the obd0 injectors just fine

 

Still, one question.

I would run the EDM B18C engine with USDM OBD-1 P72 computer. I've heard that the USDM computer/ engine has component called ELD, EDM version doesent have one? And guys told the that it could throw me few codes.

Do you guys know whatkinda component Electronic Load Detector (?) is, and could i disable it somehow?

 

The ECU will need to be chipped.
EDM cars with airconditioning have it as well.

It's a device that notices an increased draw of current, and ups the revs a bit to compensate for the strain on the alternator.

You'll need to chip the ECU to turn that off. Code 20 is -very- annoying.

 

Would the JDM ecu have similiar problems?

Is the ELD some chip on the ecu board? Could it be removed, without a chip?

Maybe i'll have to take the JDM P72 (with the annoying speed govenor) instead of the USDM P72. I really dont like the speed govenor at all.

 

You can chip it, or even use a usdm fuse box

 

So if i use a USDM fuse box my eld problems would go away, and i would have working ELD on my car? I like that.

Where should the fuse box be from? Integra? EF? Does it matter where the ELD is from?

So i can not disable it without chipping the whole computer? And does JDM box have ELD?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Twilight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if i use a USDM fuse box my eld problems would go away, and i would have working ELD on my car? I like that.

Where should the fuse box be from? Integra? EF? Does it matter where the ELD is from?

So i can not disable it without chipping the whole computer? And does JDM box have ELD?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bumpidy, i need to know.

E-mailed you Ryan for this...