i just bought a cold fusion nitrous system i was wondering if i should have gone with a dry system over wet? whats the advantages of wet? dry?

 

DRY: nitrous spray only
WET: one nitrous nozzle, one fuel nozzle
DIRECT PORT: 4 nitrous nozzles, 4 fuel nozzles.


i'm sure you'll be fine with 50-75 shot.

add some colder plugs.


<----- used to have 100 shot direct port B16

 

ok but i heard you have to retard the timing 12 degrees is that on the dizzy then?

 

you don't need to do that with only a 50-75 shot

unless of course you advanced beyond stock previously

 

I'm going to say this as nice as I possibly can, so please take minimal offense...

From your question and response, you apparently don't know very much about nitrous, or even engines. You're just now researching questions you should know before you start messing with one of, if not the most, dangerous things you can do to an engine.
And I don't mean Fast-and-the-Furious-my-car-blew-up kind of dangerous. I mean you're driving along, push the NOS button and *clunk* you have a very expensive hole in your block kind of danger.
And you've already bought a kit without knowing enough to make an educated decision. That leads me to believe you'll install and use it the same way.

Don't get me wrong, its good you're doing what you thought was research...but "I heard from someone..." and "I read it on Honda-Tech..." are the WORST kind of research you can be doing.

Before you put that **** in your car, you need to know as much as realistically possible. If its not asking too much, read a book. Like this: http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=31111377
Read everything the nitrous manufacturers have published about choosing, installing and using their product. Start at their website, visit their retailers or knowledgeable installer and get first hand advice/opinion. Any know-nothing chump (like me) can chime in here with **** they've heard and pass it off as fact.

Or you could charge off half cocked...but don't come back bad mouthing the NOS because it ate your engine because NOS didn't, ignorance did.
And the only thing I like more on H-T than telling people "You're about to do something stupid." is telling them "I told you so..."

 

that pretty much sums it up

 

i know what im doin i just asked if the wet nitrous system was better than the dry nitrous system. i want to know the good and the bad for both systems

 

no nitrous is good for your engine...and you should have searched for the good and bad before you ordered one...if i knew much about nitrous i would tell you the pros and cons of each system but ive never used it, im an all motor guy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by x_outlaw_x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no nitrous is good for your engine...</TD></TR></TABLE>wtf are you talking about?

 

uh-huh...case in point: if you knew what you were doing, you would know the difference between the two.

 

I would go with wet kit. More controllable. The dry kits seem a little shady to me. Because they have to raise your fuel pressure through basically pinching off the vac. hose leading to the regulator.

 

any more input anybody?

 

I've alway's used wet kits. If your using a small jets it really doesnt matter which one you use. More of a personal preference. But once you start going bigger with the shot you spray, a dry kit is more or less out of the question. The wet kit mixes the fuel and nitrous where as a dry kit only shoots straight nitrous into the intake manifold. Heres a dumb example. Lets say you have a cup with a little hot chocolate powder. You decide to eat it without deluting with water. Yumm thats good...now lets eat a little more this time. Now your mouth is all dry and powdery and you cant swallow. Now lets add some water into the mixs. Everything is going down smooth now because you deluded it with water. like I said dumb lol, but I hope you get the point. Cold fusion is a ghetto ebay kit right?

 

ok dude check it out !! you made a good decision going with the wet kit, the dry kit can lean you out like a mf'er and thats bad !! thats where you usually encounter the blown up engines, if you use the correct parts and tune correctly you should have no problem with a nitrous kit..

50-75 shot

42lbs fuel pressure
colder plugs
part number # 1422 jet
retard time 2-4 degrees (still ok timing for all motor)

there should be no problem unless you have a motor with very bad compression or on its way out and i think you would know that and not try to put NOS on it

i have a b16 on a 80shot direct port and i run and have friends that run all day everyday

i would recommend an aftermarket manifold being that the honda manifold can cause cylinder starvation in the runners furthest to the throttle body ! other than that squeeze away but be careful and squeeze after 3000 rpm in second and so on or a full throttle activation ! have fun !

 

i had a dry zex 75 shot on my stock *** b16....got 2 step colder plugs and ran that thing all day everyday for months without a problem. sold it and the new owner sprays all day too, no problems.

my times went from 15.0xx at 92mph to a 13.187 at 103mph. this was in an 91 std hatch with a semi gutted interior.

 

You shsould always use wet. Nitrous is like any other additive... it needs to be mixed correctly. If you get a wet system you will note that when you swap out a nitrous jet... you also need to swap the fuel jet as well. This reason for this, is to maintain a correct ratio. Now granted this is like boost. You cannot run a 100 shot of nitrous just as you cannot go run 20 lbs of boost.... unlesss you have the right equipment to support it.

Dry systems are very spooky. Your motor digest fuel in different incriments throughout the RPM range. The ECU has no concideration for the nitrous being added and does what it would do without the nitrous there... and then you have poor mixture. And this is also part reason why a dry 50 shot... means more of a 35 shot.

I have put many systems in with no long term prolems to anyone. As a matter of fact, the system for my CRX was purchased from the guy I installed dit for 4 years ago. His car went bottle after bottle with no problems on a 75 shot. Only reason he sold it is he sold the car. Nitrous does not break motors... poor setups or stupidity does.

My advice... squeeze on it with a wet 50 shot. If you do anymore than that ... start pulling the timing back.

Happy squeezing

 

well, I have used both. I read alot about it before I ever used it. From some of the things I have read about the wet & dry kit is they perform the same. The kit comes with the stuff you need to make it safe, wet or dry. Anything over 50 you should retard the timing a bit and get a colder plug. Step that up from 50 to 75. It is a good idea to get a FPR and maybe even a 195 or 255 fuel pump, but that is up to you.

Now to answer the ?? you asked instead of telling you to search, read, do your home work and eat your food. There really is not much of a difference in the 2. Its really up to you. I like dry and the reason behind that is I would rather not have a nice fuel puddle in my intake manifold.

 

&lt;sprays 50 wet on his b16. The way i like to look at it is, the dry kit adds fuel through the injectors by clamping the return line while your spraying, thus increasing the fuel pressure. Pretty much like a FMU setup on a turbo car. Would you trust an FMU on your car? i personally wouldnt, but it CAN work fine on a small kit. I would not go any larger than a 50 shot on a dry kit.

 

well ill give you my .02 i have a D16Y8 (sohc v-tec) in my hatch and its all stock. and i'm using a 100 dry, a colder plug, and retarded my timing all the way, and run 93 fuel.

Isaac-

 

thanks for all the great advice everybody. car will be going to dyno in two weeks to get tuned for the juice so i dont blow anythin up

 

Do you all use tuning hardware/software for when you spray?

 

why

what are you trying to achieve doing that?

 

I don't see a reason to, unless you are building a car that will run it's best on spray like a drag car. For a daily driver I would not bother. Trust me you do not want to drive a car with the timing all the way retarded, its no fun.

 

I've been thinking about spraying my B16 but I don't feel comfortable driving around all the time with timing retarded where it doesn't need to be and forcing fuel into the motor with no real knowledge of exactly how much it needs.

What I've been thinking of doing is chipping my ECU with BRE and running a moates 2 timer where you can change the map with the flick of a switch.

http://www.xenocron.com/produc...nents

That way I can have my car perfectly tuned for whatever shot I'm running and add fuel or retard timing where I need to. Of course you would need a dry shot to do this, but you would be adding in the fuel with the ECU so it would be more effective than a wet shot.

I have no experience with nitrous, this is just something I've been considering doing, so take it with a grain of salt.

 

how do you figure fuel metered from the ecu is more effective?

wet shot is ideal compromise. no need to retard ignition, play with an ecu etc. just switch it on when you want and go.

rest of the time your car is as normal