1

 

I don't know that you can do that with a headlight bulb. It takes a few moments for an incandecent bulb to wake up and light.

Misfire on cyl #3? Any chance the injector is stuck open or something?

You said the spark plugs all looked the same, that's a good start...

When you connect your two leads from the multimeter together to measure resistance, do you get exactly 0.00 ohms? Internal resistance in the wires might add up to your out-of-spec distributor.

Seriously, do you have a friend with an ITR you can swap Distributors with? Is the OBD2 GSR the same (dunno)?

-Chris

 

Do you have an Autozone in Hawaii?
Sadly, I work for Autozone, but I don't know the answer to this question...
Anyway, if you do, or even an Advance/Napa, they all have ICM testers that will validate the ICM.
On your coil it has A (the +), B (the -), and the secondary winding terminal.
You measured the resistance between A and B, and it was out of spec.
Your A to secondary was in spec.
Another thing you can check is if there is continuity between B and the secondary.
IIRC there should be no continuity, (this can indicate a short internal to the coil).
I fought with my coil recently too....so much fun

 

You answered your own question. The reistance on the primary side of the coil is out of spec, this will give you a too low voltage peak on the coil. All of your symptoms sound like a bad coil as well.

Replace the ignition coil.

 

i wouldn't put too much weight on resistance test.since your not testing it under load

my question
How do you know cylinder 3 is missfiring?

the most accurate way is to test the system under load and use a lab scope or a graphing meter that lets you see it over time like a graph.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 43MA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldn't put too much weight on resistance test.since your not testing it under load
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is NOT true?!?
Resistance has nothing to do with load.
The resistance SHOULD be measured under no load, and the numbers in the Helms expect that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by andyt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is NOT true?!?
Resistance has nothing to do with load.
The resistance SHOULD be measured under no load, and the numbers in the Helms expect that.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is a temperature dependency when measuring distributor component resistance as stated in the Helm's. If you don't operate within the temperature range provided, the resistance output may deviate from spec.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Looking down into cylinder #3 I asume would tell me if it is or not. As stated, every time I look in there, the top of the piston is wet where the other three are dry. This would tell me #3 is not firing or possibly getting too much fuel. I really don't know.

What I do know is, I went auto crossing today and the car worked just fine. Like I said, the symtoms come and go. I was told by fellow Honda guys today that it could be a few other things:

The main relay
The cylinder postion sensor
The primary coil
The fact that I have a chipped P28 with a base map and no O2 sensors. What I learned about this is even though, my ECU is not reading the O2...it is still searching for the resistance in the O2 harness. Maybe that is affecting it. Who knows. I kept my O2 sensors from when I was turbo charged and will install them tomorrow to see if that helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are running without O2 sensors? Wow, nevermind, you got much bigger prob's, and probably more than one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You are running without O2 sensors? Wow, nevermind, you got much bigger prob's, and probably more than one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you figure? What critical information is the ECU pulling off the primary O2 sensor when the ECU it's self is running an aftermarket program?

Regardless, I installed the primary O2 back into the car this evening.

While under the car, I was looking at the condition of the belts, when I noticed that two wires running from somewhere near the alternator (part of the wiring harness) toward the crank pully wheel had been in constant contact with the alternator belt and almost chewed through both the wires (blue wire and white wire). I'm asuming this is probably the crank postion sensor wires. Regardless, I fixed that issue.

Tomorrow I'm going for a little drive to see if this has fixed the problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">While under the car, I was looking at the condition of the belts, when I noticed that two wires running from somewhere near the alternator (part of the wiring harness) toward the crank pully wheel had been in constant contact with the alternator belt and almost chewed through both the wires (blue wire and white wire). I'm asuming this is probably the crank postion sensor wires. Regardless, I fixed that issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>

See, if you hadn't fixed your o2 sensor, you would have broken down within days!

Not sure how aftermarket chips will react, but I would think they still try to use the O2 sensors for part throttle. Hondata and others do use the o2. However, you could program them to run in open loop and ignore the o2.

 

Brandon,

Not sure if the program we used is open or closed loop. I'll check the file tomorrow when I go down to Intec. If it is open loop, then the O2 sensor doesn't need to be there. If we set it up for closed loop, then the O2 sensor is needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brandon,

Not sure if the program we used is open or closed loop. I'll check the file tomorrow when I go down to Intec. If it is open loop, then the O2 sensor doesn't need to be there. If we set it up for closed loop, then the O2 sensor is needed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Appreciated. I'm walking out the door to take off my IACV to see if it needs a cleaning or not. I would asume it's a bit clogged up with carbon from when the car was turbo'ed. I actually hope it is gunked up so I can find something definately wrong.

I'm also going to go over the wiring harness for the injectors to see if there are any grounding issues or something out of the ordinary.

For the most part the car hasn't backfired for about three days, and the idle isn't jumping around. Hmmm.

 

these kinda intermittent problems are really tricky to fix.

you need something like a labscope and current ramp the injectors and coil while driving it too see that, when it does missfire its from the ignition side or fuel side.

i wouldn't worry about the crankposition sensor. on obd2 cars its only used for missfire detection and has nothing to do with ignition or fuel maps