B18C1 or a H22?
Hi,
I'm thinking about getting an EF Civic 4 Door and would like to drop either a B18C1 or an H22 into it. I don't need it to be super fast or anything but I was hoping to break into the 13's with full bolt ons with tuning, headwork, and some PnP. Could this be done with a B18C1 or would I have to get an H22? If it could be done I'll probably go with the B18C1 since it's lighter but I want to check if I can do it.
Also, what kind of times in the 1/4 would the B18C1 and the H22 run without anything added on? Just the stock motor?
Thanks.
I'm thinking about getting an EF Civic 4 Door and would like to drop either a B18C1 or an H22 into it. I don't need it to be super fast or anything but I was hoping to break into the 13's with full bolt ons with tuning, headwork, and some PnP. Could this be done with a B18C1 or would I have to get an H22? If it could be done I'll probably go with the B18C1 since it's lighter but I want to check if I can do it.
Also, what kind of times in the 1/4 would the B18C1 and the H22 run without anything added on? Just the stock motor?
Thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highroller54 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would vote for the gsr
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Originally I wanted a B to try and keep the handling abilities but if the H is only 50 or so pounds heavier I may go with that. Plus, I could probably make it handle just as good with some aftermarket work on the suspension anyways...
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I remember reading it is like 35 or so pounds. Which isn't too bad.
However, it will be a lot easier to get the B in. With the H in our 4th gen civics, its a bit more work, I would do the B18C1. And since you plan on doing head work, which will get you some nice gains and it will put you into the 13s.
However, it will be a lot easier to get the B in. With the H in our 4th gen civics, its a bit more work, I would do the B18C1. And since you plan on doing head work, which will get you some nice gains and it will put you into the 13s.
Check this site out I heard he is a koo guy and knows his stuff
http://www.ExplicitSpeedPerformance.net
http://www.ExplicitSpeedPerformance.net
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=684550
50 LBS diffrence give or take..
i had an EG H22 a little less then a month ago, was my daily driver for almost 6 months and it was surpriseingly pretty damn fast with just a lightweight flywheel and a six puck clutch and it handled very well.. that's why i'll be building another soon and then turboing it
50 LBS diffrence give or take..
i had an EG H22 a little less then a month ago, was my daily driver for almost 6 months and it was surpriseingly pretty damn fast with just a lightweight flywheel and a six puck clutch and it handled very well.. that's why i'll be building another soon and then turboing it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostinaintez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gsr stick with b leave them h's in the preludes haha jk guys</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice . . gs-r's are reliable engines . .
nice . . gs-r's are reliable engines . .
Either motor could be used to make a 13 second car. The difference is that the H22A will do it stock. And it also has more torque. Also, the H22A is a cheaper motor to buy. But it is a good deal more difficult to swap in. And although I have gotten mixed answers on this one, I don't know if A/C is even possible with the H22A. Of course, an H22A swap is greatly simplified if you use an H2B adaptor. But then, you have to buy both a B-series transmission and B-series mount kit. Of course, you will likely still come out ahead of a GSR swap price-wise.
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