Here's a nice juicy problem from a noob
How's it going, i'm usually on accordracing and my name over there is sleepy_accord if you're ever on the board. But anyway here's my problem, i have a 97 accord with a f20b swap, it retained the accord auto transmission, it had been running terrible due to the stock accord ecu being used in the swap, i finally got the money to get a p28 chipped with a h22 program and got it installed. i used a harness from jkobd, it was a obd2-1 harness and had another set of wires coming off of it, the person who hooked it up didn't hook up all the wires, but it ran fine, i drove it for 3 hours and it was great, hauled ***.
the problem started when i went out to play, i floored it and reved it to 7500 and then let off, when i let off it felt like the trans slipped a little, when i slowed for a speed bump the car felt like it was going to cut off. so i parked it and unhooked the battery and went inside. the next morn it would barely crank and idled like ****. i took it to a local shop and they found a vacuum hose blown off of the MAF sensor and hooked it back up, then cranked it, it would idle but that's it. the only way i can keep the car cranked while not in motion say at a stop light is to hold my foot on the brake and keep it reved, as soon as i let off it cuts off. i'v got a cel but don't know how to check it since it's obd1. another problem is the trans, if i shift it 1st and 2nd are fine, when it goes to d3 it won't shift immediately, and when it shifts and shifts back and forth between 2nd and d3. so what's the deal? i'm going to be hooking back up my stock ecu tommorow to see if i can get a usable cel code to figure out the problem. if it helps heres my setup.
Jdm f20b DOHC vtec
obd2 97 accord auto trans
I/H/E
msd external coil conversion
msd pug wires.
p28 ecu? jkobd auto obd1-2 harness
jdm prelude si tcu (WOT shift at 7400 rpm's)
I haven't been able to get in touch with the person that did the wiring he's on here but i dont know his screen name. any help would be awesome and if i knew any of you personally i'd buy you a hooker or something.
the problem started when i went out to play, i floored it and reved it to 7500 and then let off, when i let off it felt like the trans slipped a little, when i slowed for a speed bump the car felt like it was going to cut off. so i parked it and unhooked the battery and went inside. the next morn it would barely crank and idled like ****. i took it to a local shop and they found a vacuum hose blown off of the MAF sensor and hooked it back up, then cranked it, it would idle but that's it. the only way i can keep the car cranked while not in motion say at a stop light is to hold my foot on the brake and keep it reved, as soon as i let off it cuts off. i'v got a cel but don't know how to check it since it's obd1. another problem is the trans, if i shift it 1st and 2nd are fine, when it goes to d3 it won't shift immediately, and when it shifts and shifts back and forth between 2nd and d3. so what's the deal? i'm going to be hooking back up my stock ecu tommorow to see if i can get a usable cel code to figure out the problem. if it helps heres my setup.
Jdm f20b DOHC vtec
obd2 97 accord auto trans
I/H/E
msd external coil conversion
msd pug wires.
p28 ecu? jkobd auto obd1-2 harness
jdm prelude si tcu (WOT shift at 7400 rpm's)
I haven't been able to get in touch with the person that did the wiring he's on here but i dont know his screen name. any help would be awesome and if i knew any of you personally i'd buy you a hooker or something.
First off, you gotta ditch the Auto tranny. Accord auto trannies are notorious for problems on a totally stock F series.... let alone running on a 200hp motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Born_2_Slow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and where i live a stick is a pain in the *** as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No it's not.... I'm stationed in Jacksonville
No it's not.... I'm stationed in Jacksonville
all right, lets get some things straight. 5th gen auto trannies are built like tanks and do not have the longevity problems that the 6th gen ones do.
who in their right mind would swap in an engine with less displacenment?. If you are going to do a swap H22 is the way to go without a guestion.
The best auto trans is the EX one if you want the best compromise between power and fuel ecomomy. Getting a H22 or H23 trans will give you the best accelleration times but you will soon hate yourself when you are driving down the freeway at 70 and your are pushing 4K+ on the tach.
If the car has shifting problems, why not remove the shift solenoids and clean the screens and then reintall them?
who in their right mind would swap in an engine with less displacenment?. If you are going to do a swap H22 is the way to go without a guestion.
The best auto trans is the EX one if you want the best compromise between power and fuel ecomomy. Getting a H22 or H23 trans will give you the best accelleration times but you will soon hate yourself when you are driving down the freeway at 70 and your are pushing 4K+ on the tach.
If the car has shifting problems, why not remove the shift solenoids and clean the screens and then reintall them?
then you gotta know what a pain in the *** the bridges in wilmington are, and college road traffic. I'm no trying to sound ungrateful but the trans problem is an easy fix, the main thing is the car wanting to cut off, i only need 1st and 2nd gear anway but i can't deal with the car cutting off. and i went down in displacement because the compression of the f20b more than comensates for it, and i'v rode in a h22 accord before, top end isn't the same
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



